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bottom paint
karrakmc
#1 Posted : Saturday, February 21, 2009 9:24:23 AM(UTC)
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In an earlier thread someone was going to test the bottom paint from a small shop up located in northeast ohio. Anyone run that test and if so how did it work out?
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jralbert
#2 Posted : Saturday, February 21, 2009 9:42:25 AM(UTC)
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I offered to test in brackish Ches Bay - no followup. Can't remember who was going to provide the Cleveland Paint. We were able to run a test on ePaint va Trilux 33. Trilux triumphed a couple of seasons ago.. after ePaint had been nosing them out. I think the Trilux formula improved.
WIlling to test ago with photos. I have the Trilux. Need other paint samples.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
SORRYDOG2
#3 Posted : Saturday, February 21, 2009 2:33:56 PM(UTC)
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I talked with Mr. Schilling of Schilling paint co, in Cleveland last summer, he was going to send me test plates,but I never got them. Tried to call numerous times to try to even buy some, however their no. was always ringing busy. I did test the Kolor paint here in a salt/brackish water and they failed. Will try to recontact the old man again. Thanks Sorrydog
Docsnow
#4 Posted : Saturday, February 21, 2009 10:15:29 PM(UTC)
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To All,

Ablative paints are made to wear away as the vessel moves thru the water as they wear a way they also discard any fouling that accumulates on it’s surface. So as we’ve all been pretty much stuck at the docks the pass season due to fuel prices etc. we haven’t given the product a chance to do it’s job as intended the faster the vessel goes the better it works. There are A/F paints out there for slower boats like sailboats & trawlers but are extremely high in Cuprous Oxides of over 40% which are now good for our Aluminum boat. Now one A/F paint I’ve been checking into is InterLux “Pacifica Plus” claim to fame that it has no copper what so ever in it ? Don’t know how well it works ?? Has anyone tried this A/F yet ? Relativity a lot cheaper than Trilux 33
Not wanting to start a Brew Ha - Ha but by just hanging a sample strips at dock side isn’t a true test unless U R looking for the clean ability when U go to store the vessel for the winter. I believe Joel, did that a couple of seasons ago but I couldn’t find that tread may be Joel, can elaborate on the outcome of that test? Of Trilux 33, E-paint, & the Skatt A/F polish as I recall the samples where. To read up on the way A/F paints are suppose to work “Joe Pasco (spelling )” has a great writeup on his site as well as E-paint & Intrlux do but lean more toward their product being the best ?
AnyWho I still say going bare bottomed is the way to go ? why kill your self sanding & painting with all the toxins in the A/F paints etc. when one can take their boat to the shallows & soft brush the bottom clean periodically ??? Accordingly to John Althouse a bottom paint isn’t necessary in fresh water conditions.


Norm,

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jralbert
#5 Posted : Sunday, February 22, 2009 7:27:41 AM(UTC)
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"...Joel did that a couple of seasons ago but I couldn’t find that thread. May be Joel can elaborate on the outcome of that test? Of Trilux 33, E-paint, & the Skatt A/F polish as I recall the samples where. To read up on the way A/F paints are suppose to work “Joe Pasco (spelling )” has a great writeup on his site as well as E-paint & Intrlux do but lean more toward their product being the best ? ..."

Norm: I referred to the tests a few posts up this page. WHile some years ago, ePaint (zo No Foul) was far and away better for me than Trilux (I had comparison patches on the boat and ePaint area had few critters while Trilux was loaded)... Trilux caught up about the time we ran our tests two seasons ago and was far in front of ePaint. That clear Skatt stuff was totally ineffective, a waste of money and effort, at least in the brackish Chesapeake Bay. Perhaps it would be useful in fresh water where a periodic scrubdown will do the job since your big problem is not critters but algae and scum. It is smooth and slick and might give you a little mph boost in fresh water.

I did not test Kolor Paint or Schilling .. still waiting for samples.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
dacroof2
#6 Posted : Tuesday, February 24, 2009 12:48:50 AM(UTC)
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I have used the schilling bottom paint for the last 2 seasons on Lake Erie. It washes off faster than trilux because after last season it was pretty thin on the bottom, but we do go out a lot and we run fast. At schilling they mix the paint while you wait so its real fresh. It has a little more of a sheen to it then trilux and maybe a little thinner. I think I paid approx. $40.00 per gallon last year so it is unbelievably cheaper. This year, I will be using it again. The schilling are also avid boaters and dock their boat at Bay Point. Its a mom and pop outfit with 2 adult sons that work in the back. Very nice people.
jralbert
#7 Posted : Tuesday, February 24, 2009 3:25:11 AM(UTC)
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As a fresh water place, does one get critters clinging to the bottom (today I guess it would be zebra mussels) or just slime/algae? If it's just plant growth, you are right that a fast run once in a while will scrub things clean and if needed, a light brushing as well.

As I recall from my days at a marina on the west side of Cleveland, there were zero barnacles or their relatives. Here on the lovely, almost snow-free east coat, we have them by the ton and it takes a nasty anti-foul paint to fend them off. That's why I would be very willing to get a Schilling/Kolor sample for testing here.

Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
stan
#8 Posted : Saturday, March 14, 2009 11:50:59 PM(UTC)
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I went to Schilling Paint on Sat 3/14/09. Very friendly and nice folks. Bought two gallons of bottom paint at 43.50 per gallon alot less than Trilux. I'm going to give it a try. It was explained to me that the paint uses a shedding process to get rid of growth, the more you use the boat the cleaner the bottom will be.
I'm going to do multiple coats and put it on heavy around the water line. Since I pull th boat every year I'll see the results. I was also told to spray clear laquer into water intakes and that helps repell the zebra muscles, seem last year we had more than usual in this area.
Nice trip on a gorgeous day, at the shop ran into a guy from Battery Park Marina in Sandusky that knew the previous owner of my boat................small world.
Scratch my back with a hacksaw..........................
jralbert
#9 Posted : Sunday, March 15, 2009 1:39:45 AM(UTC)
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Stan: what does Schilling put into the paint as a biocide? I know you are fresh water boater so that environment is much friendlier than our brackish water territory.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
stan
#10 Posted : Sunday, March 15, 2009 2:21:07 AM(UTC)
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They don't put any bio chems in the paint. It's a shedding process as the boat moves through the water or fast current passing under the dock. They recommend several coats, but at the price, you can afford to double or even tripple coat. Always on the river you get algae growth but you just jump in and hit it with a brush now and then to take care of that. I'm going to try it this season, the lake boaters have had success with it. Not sure what it would do in brackish water though. Algae and zebra muscles are most of what we deal with here.
Stan
Scratch my back with a hacksaw..........................
mrschmidt
#11 Posted : Wednesday, March 18, 2009 11:41:23 AM(UTC)
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Just purchased a 28 Sportfisher last September and purchased Schilling paint on Saturday. I used the sheddding paint on my Chris Craft Lancer last two seasons in Huron river . I was satisfied with results, had no zebra muscles and roughly the same amount algae as copper paint at haul out , which is considerable in warm still river channel. At 43.50 a gallon adequate fresh water protection washes of easily with pressure washer. I doubt it would efective in saltwater envirement as it has no biocides. They also have copper paint for 73 a gallo for you plastic boats. Look forward to good summer in my new to me Marinette seem like a tough old boat and no stringers to rot!!
tr_guy79
#12 Posted : Thursday, March 19, 2009 3:08:24 AM(UTC)
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Will they ship the paint? @ $45/ gallon, its $150/ gallon cheaper than Trilux...
"McKenna Renee"
1972 '32 FB Express. Twin 318 / Edelbrock 1409s
Chesapeake City Md (Upper Bay / C&D Canal)
rockit
#13 Posted : Thursday, March 19, 2009 2:50:52 PM(UTC)
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Has anyone tried this outfit: http://www.boatzincs.com/index.html

In addition to anodes, they offer an AL safe ablative paint with a biocide

Thanks.

Joe
Joe
1977 28' Express
Twin 318s, raw water cooled
Ohio River
jralbert
#14 Posted : Thursday, March 19, 2009 6:16:04 PM(UTC)
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Your better zinc source is John Althouse - see the section of the site devoted to his company. I checked Boatzinc.com. their hull zinc pricing far exceeds his. And he'll sell you the correct type (although, I suepect BoatZInc.com will also).
Their pricing on Kolor Paint is only slightly below that of WHolesaleMarine's trilux (which I think still ships for free).
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
mark
#15 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 12:45:00 AM(UTC)
mark

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i need to put bottom paint on my 41 but i want to scuff it down its got trilux 33 and thats what im going to put back what is the best way to scuff it without gumming up,wetsand ,da ,scotch brite,
any advice will be helpfull

mark
jimski2
#16 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 12:53:12 AM(UTC)
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It is confusing when they say Zinc Hull and Aluminum hull Zincs. What the do not say is steel hull zincs? Maybe the Aluminum hull zincs do not work on aluminum hulls.
tr_guy79
#17 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 1:28:19 AM(UTC)
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$173 / gallon on boatzincs.com is not really that cheap when you consider that Schilling is only $45/ gallon.... Their (boatzincs) paint calculator shows that I would need 2 gallons for the '32 that I haven't bought yet (I won't bore you all with the details, but I am STILL trying to find the stock compression (PSI) on a LM318), does that sound right? I am trying to build a theorehtical budget.

-Shane
"McKenna Renee"
1972 '32 FB Express. Twin 318 / Edelbrock 1409s
Chesapeake City Md (Upper Bay / C&D Canal)
fastjeff
#18 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 3:31:33 AM(UTC)
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140 to 170 psi depending on the compression tester you use. Anything over 100 is okay.

Jeff
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jralbert
#19 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 3:33:46 AM(UTC)
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Shane: perhaps the Upper Chesapeake is virtually all fresh water. But if you spend any time more to the south (say the Bay Bridge or Annapolis), you'd do well to have a paint with some serious biocide in it to ward off algae and barnacles. They are nasty. The Schilling paint is not designed for these waters. I wish there were an additive for such paints but I don't know of any.

On the zincs question. Here is the info from the Marinettes.com (John Althouse) web site:

Although anodes are commonly referred to as "zincs" the proper anode for use on the Marinette hull is actually a specially developed aluminum alloy with the designation of KA90 or SEALLOY 150. These aluminum anodes, because of their material make up and the processing that they go through, give the highest protection possible. KA 90 and SEALLOY 150 were the anodes that the boats were supplied with from the factory. Magnesium can be used, however Marinette Yachts does not recommend its use. If magnesium is used, it can only be used in freshwater and it will deplete at a much faster rate than the aluminum anode possibly leaving the hull unprotected if not monitored closely. Commonly available zinc is too close on the galvanic scale to provide adequate protection and should not be used. High purity zinc can be used but it is difficult to find and does not provide as much protection as the aluminum anode
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
Ed
#20 Posted : Friday, March 20, 2009 4:11:11 AM(UTC)
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" The Schilling paint is not designed for these waters. I wish there were an additive for such paints but I don't know of any. "

I haven't tried it, but have heard that cayenne pepper works well. Just put lots of it in the paint.
Myself I use E-paint bottom paint with zinc in it, never copper bottom paint. --Ed
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