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32marinette88
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 01, 2009 11:37:37 AM(UTC)
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hay jeff,
should i and how do i clean the zincs i bought from marquette MI last year, they look good and numbers are 9.5 range, had hull stripped to bare last year and put on new zincs
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#2 Posted : Sunday, March 01, 2009 1:50:24 PM(UTC)
GB49

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I use a paint scraper and a wire brush. Just clean off the scale and any paint that may be on them and hose off all the dust and they are ready to protect.
I also wire brush and rinse off the hull where contact is made.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
Docsnow
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 01, 2009 2:55:21 PM(UTC)
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James,

Be sure to use a Stainless Steel wire brush especially where U brush off the contact points for the zinc's Pray Are U saying U R going bare bottom with no A/F paint if so how has it worked out I’m very interested in the outcome plan on doing mine that way soon but am a little dubious Think  if U had the boat in the water bare bottomed how easy was it to clean at pull out Think

Norm,

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fastjeff
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 01, 2009 11:13:01 PM(UTC)
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I can retire with all this good and accurate advise being offered!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Gypsy Girl
#5 Posted : Tuesday, March 03, 2009 7:40:07 AM(UTC)
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I mistakenly posted my 0.1 meter reading in the wrong area....
With that in mind I would be interested in knowing the better zincs and where avail for my 32 since I moved to saltwater?
Also will go to find the best replacement dripless shaft seals and bearings
pfhlaw
#6 Posted : Tuesday, March 03, 2009 8:18:40 AM(UTC)
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The factory original anodes are made of a magnesium alloy which works great in fresh water but may overprotect and cause your welds to corrode if used for extended periods in salt water. Standard zinc anodes are required in salt water. They are still less noble than aluminum so they will sacrifice themselves in a highly catalytic bath of salt water.
I'm confused as to why your meter is only reading .1 volt. I would have thought it would be reading higher than the desired 1.0 volts, not lower. The Capac meter is simply a volt meter measuring the DC electric potential between the aluminum hull and the reference terminal which is the disc on the bottom of the boat. Did someone paint it over with A/F paint?
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
jralbert
#7 Posted : Tuesday, March 03, 2009 9:04:02 AM(UTC)
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Gypsy: Man, you are all over the lot on this one. Posts now in two areas. Seriously, I applaud your determination to get to the bottom of your issue. It would be better, however, to have your own thread on the question.. tacking onto another thread confuses people. It's not a capital offense - we won't steal your first 50 lbs of rockfish. Just keeping things orderly here makes it easier on easily baffled old farts like me.

Peter gives you good info on the type of zincs available and where to use them. Why mags one place and not the other? Salt water carries electrical current easier than fresh so magnesium would start the electrons to really boogeying. That is why Peter mentioned that the metal in the welds would start joining the parade.

On the Capac meter: if it is fouled be very careful how you clean it. NO sandpaper or wire brushes. A very light touch with maybe a sponge or one of those no-scratch plastic dishwashing pads. The metal film of silver/silver chloride that makes up the reference terminal is quite thin and delicate. Don't paint it, either, or it can't do its detecting job.

Source of proper zincs is John Althouse - they run about $120 or so for a 6' long bar that gets attached to the keel. He'll cut it in half for easier shipping and you should attach a 3' piece to each side of the keel. I'm cheap..when they start to wear, I save and use a cut down, doubled-up piece on the trim tabs. or, again doubled-up, on the keel itself.

Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
Gypsy Girl
#8 Posted : Tuesday, March 03, 2009 10:53:12 AM(UTC)
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All over is right ....From the purchase with Maryland harrassing me over the sale,the break in that cost me my electronics and gear,the former owner wishing to drive her one last time on the shakedown cruise prior to moving her and then leaving the helm unattended when we struck a log,(pull and prop repair),elctronic short that had me talking to everyone on earth(and myself) just to find it to be in the wire and control module,to now this ...
Boating is fun..I just want to protect the beauty of this fine metal boat...
Anthony
I am to assume standard zincs are fine??
I read something about KA90 and Sealloy 150..
Another day above ground...and on the surface.
jralbert
#9 Posted : Tuesday, March 03, 2009 3:08:29 PM(UTC)
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Gypsy Girl wrote:
Maryland harrassing me over the sale......I am to assume standard zincs are fine?? I read something about KA90 and Sealloy 150..
MARYLAND: I had a short hassle, too. Bought and kept the boat for one year in VA and had a brief go-round on whether it was a MD or VA boat. But they were quite nice about it and relented quickly. Of course that was 1993 and those folks are probably long gone.
ZINC: I think "standard" zinc should be ok, but the KA/Sealloy units are reputed to be better. More expensive but that kind of corrosion is something you don't want to screw around with.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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