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trontek
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 08, 2009 8:41:23 AM(UTC)
trontek

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I have posted before concerning replacement of shaft, prop and "zincs" but think this post goes here. Attached is pics after about one month in the water. The shaft is still not isolated from the engine block/hull but it will be prior to relaunch. Is the greenish blue coloring on the prop also due to electrolysis?

The prop nut is loose as we are replacing the prop but that is another story and will be added to the dumbest things I have ever done segment later(IF I can find the right prop....).
File Attachment(s):
Marinette 007.jpg (118kb) downloaded 278 time(s).
Marinette 008.jpg (123kb) downloaded 278 time(s).
Marinette 009.jpg (122kb) downloaded 275 time(s).
Jim

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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Sunday, March 08, 2009 1:20:10 PM(UTC)
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That's a loose nut alright! I'd say the coloration on the prop is normal, but I'd relocate the rudder zinc to be horizontal--it's creating a significant drag on an angle like that.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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bpboater
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 08, 2009 1:27:03 PM(UTC)
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With the amount of corrosion you are getting and the blue hue on the bronze prop, I wonder if there is copper based antifouling paint on the boat.
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GB49
#5 Posted : Sunday, March 08, 2009 1:36:51 PM(UTC)
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Wow! I would have to say there is a major problem somewhere. You should not have those blisters and absolutely not after 1 month in the water. At least I'm assuming those are blisters and not some type of barnacle/growth.

I would have to guess current is being introduced via the hull or dock or neighbor boat(s).

If that were my boat she would stay on the hard until I figured something out.

I'd be checking the shorepower outlet on the dock for stray voltages on the ground and making sure the dock neighbors cords are not damaged/melted around the prongs.
Also make sure your shorepower ground is running through the isolator.

-Karl

1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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dougrose
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 08, 2009 11:28:35 PM(UTC)
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That rudder does not have rounded corners and so may be an addition. Looks like good workmanship, tho. You might consider removing the zinc and replacing it with a round flat one through the upper hole, to allow better flow over the rudder.

I know that Liz would make some comment here about how the loose nut on our boat is usually behind the wheel.....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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Gypsy Girl
#7 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 2:19:02 AM(UTC)
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Now that I have posted a problem in the wrong area I want to get it in here for good help from all on the forum.
I had a meter reading of 0.1 , 2 weeks ago and went down friday to do some looking.
I found the sensor and watertight crimp below my ladder to the galley midships.
It had moisture in it and I cut it out ,made a connection ,reading went up tp 0.15
Still low...looking in the bilge I found 7 small white mounds that look like salt around the dripping shaft seal.Removing the mounds I found some minor pitting which means I have a problem.do I have a similar one to this above?
I am planning on having my boat pulled this week and searching for solutions .
Anthony
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Docsnow
#8 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 3:16:35 AM(UTC)
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Anthony,

As far as I know once your vessel is out of the water U will not be-able to take Capac reading unless
someone on this site has devised a method. So U might wantta chase down what’s wrong with the Capac
meter readings before haul out Brick wall

Norm,

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http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


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Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
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jralbert
#9 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 5:04:33 AM(UTC)
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Isolate your shaft (really important), then take a reading. As Norm points out, there is no way to take a reading with boat out of the water. Deposit near shaft seal may be mineral accumulation from evaporation of the leaked water.
Are those barnacles on the struts or is that corrosion? If the latter, you have issues. Chase down a 12v source first (short?), then AC (which may be a little easier to spot).
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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pfhlaw
#10 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 5:13:10 AM(UTC)
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Trontek:
Check to make sure the cutlas bearing is non-metalic, not brass.
Also check the bearing on the rudder shaft. It should be non-metalic.
If the previous owner replaced the original rudder and shaft, he may have used a brass bearing.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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fastjeff
#11 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 6:01:11 AM(UTC)
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Good thought, Peter.

Check for rudder-to-hull conductivity--there should be an open circuit between the two. Someone may have left out part of the insulating portion of the steering cable that isolates the rudder from the hull.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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GB49
#12 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 8:03:45 AM(UTC)
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If you choose to go with the round anodes for the rudders make sure you choose the correct type. I used the round anodes for couple years and realized they were not blistering like the others. Did some research and found out the round anodes I got from West Marine here in northern Ohio (Lake Erie) were designed for use in salt water. I verified the number stamped on the anode with the manufacturer.

They came off and I went back to Marinette style SeaAlloy.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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Gypsy Girl
#13 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 11:49:47 AM(UTC)
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Several months ago I was told during an absent (Me) prop repair that the strut bushings would need replacing soon.
I am of the belief that if while replacing the prop the mechanic noticed bearing play I may have contact in the shaft to bearing area..
I plan to go down prior to pull and test the shafts,rudders,and the Capac again...
I did disconnect the shore power and then the batteries with NO change in the readings...
Any other good checks prior to pulling?
Thanks to all...
A little extra to Norm, always there for us ...


P S any good choices for drippless packings ?
Anthony
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bpboater
#14 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 12:27:05 PM(UTC)
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Remove the power cord from the boat and be sure there is no inverter running on the boat. Now, measure the resistance between the white ground wire lug to the green ground wire lug on the receptacle on the boat where the power cord plugs in. You should get at least 25000 ohms resistance between the two wires. If you don't, then the green and white wire are connected somewhere in the boat. That is a big problem because the green wire connects directly to the hull.

Paul
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fastjeff
#15 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 1:59:19 PM(UTC)
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Not trying to be a smarty pants, but the boat has to be in the water for at least a week for any meaningful Capac readings.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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jralbert
#16 Posted : Monday, March 09, 2009 2:04:44 PM(UTC)
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Not trying to outsmartypants .. but you ought to be able to get a "close enough" ballpark reading almost immediately...but for a right-on check, follow Mr JEff's advice.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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Barkleydave
#17 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2009 9:32:49 AM(UTC)
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Since your boat appears to be on the TN river barnicales are not the problem.

I imagine you have tried lots of things but it appears that it is serious galvanic corrosion. (Not electrolysis, which also can contribute to the problem.

1. Disconnect ALL ELECTRICAL AC and DC.
2. Disconnect or make sure shafts are isolated from hull and engine.
3. Check and verify that rudders are properly isolated.
4. Cutlass bearins are they non conductive if brass you will have problems!
5. Tru-hulls isolated or Maylar?
6. Proper anodes? Sealoy 90 or mags in fresh water. Zinc offers almost zero protection for alluminum. Will protect your props.

Make sure your anodes are making good contact with the hull. If you are wet.. then attempt to brush your rudder anodes with SS brush and note if readings change.

You can also add mag guppy over the side. This should raise the readings significantly. If not... then problem with Capac Cathode along with other isolation concerns.

The most common location of isolation problems are shaft couplings, cutlass bearings and rudder and steering isolation problems. If you have a galvanic isolator that is working.... that will protect your boat from stray DC current comming in on AC. Also suggest you move your boat out of your mooring anchor and check your readings to help isolate the problem. Best of luck.

safe boating,
dave

Here is a source for CAPA products still in production.



http://www.wardsmarine.c...031_CorrosionControl.pdf
None
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tr_guy79
#18 Posted : Tuesday, April 21, 2009 12:24:53 PM(UTC)
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Hey!!! They still make our meters and hull sensor... Cool.. Expensive, but cool.
"McKenna Renee"
1972 '32 FB Express. Twin 318 / Edelbrock 1409s
Chesapeake City Md (Upper Bay / C&D Canal)
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