Why not into the head? Would probably be nice for it to not be stifling hot in there during the summer months. Or route it down under the V-berth, and come out the setee side of the night stand.

My project 32 came with an air conditioner installed in the wine cellar right in back of the access door. I also have the hot and cold water tanks in there taking up the rest of the room. There is a Y shaped plenum on the top of the air handler. A 6" outlet connects to a hard wall flexible duct that makes a short run to the STB side up through the floor and cabinet next to the settee. It connects to a rectangular louvered vent on top of the cabinet. The vent is on the front part of the cabinet so I can't use it for any storage. I am going to move it to the back part of the cabinet or cut a lid in the back part of the cabinet.

Now here is the real problem. The other plenum outlet was 4" connected to that silver flexible clothes dryer type tubing. It ran over the top of the water tank and through a hole in the Port wine cellar wall. Then it ran between the dining table settee and hull, all the way out through a hole in the port side closet and on to a vent through the V-berth bulk head. The flexible tubing was all shedded and needed to be replaced. I used the original "slinky" wires from the old tubing to pull in a stronger steel cable and a fish tape. I just can't pull in the new tubing. It gets caught and bunches up. My next trick will be to use one steel fish tape run through the middle of the tubing as a kind of rail and and another to pull the tubing through. Also I may try the flexible hard wall aluminum tubing because it is stiffer and may not bunch up in the wall.

The big problem is leverage. I can't get into the wine cellar and near enough to the port side wall. I also can't get close enough to the wall in back of the closet. I may try to take out the closet and drawers to get closer to the the port side wall near the V-berth. There us no way to open up the wine cellar without ripping out the whole interior helm but I may be able to disassemble the dinette area.

My advice to you is to install all the ducts before you install the A/C unit. You are going to need all the room in the wine cellar you can get. If you try my port side duct run you may be able to shift the water tank away from the port side wall temporarily if you can get to the filler pipe.

Any of you guys that are rebuilding your Marinettes up from a bare hull should re-engineer the wine cellar so it can be easily opened up to get to all of the equipment stuffed in there.

Good ideas, I going to have to drink some beer and think some more.

Hi. I have a 1990 32 sedan and the marine air is located under the dinette seat next to the steps. There is a 4" air duct running to the v-birth. The original instlation used a 6" duct that ran through the storage area and up through the cabinet next to the pull-out couch. I have since moved it to the bottom of the helm blowing aft. The cilon is the hardest area to keep cool. The cold air will fall keeping the galley cool. the return air duct is in the seat pannel next to the steps. I have added an engine driven air conditioner and heat unit that uses the original cabinet vent. This keeps the boat cool when you are under way without running the generator.

I am real stuck with the wine cellar A/C install. That is the way the boat came to me. I will take some measurements to see if it is even possibe to put the A/C in the dinette seat storage locker as pictured. That would also be a good place for the water pump. I m also tempted to remove the water heater to the shelf in front of the engine room bulk head. That would make hooking up engine heat easier although probably not as safe. I just hate trying to wedge myself into that darn wine cellar.

Ours is an '88 sedan fly bridge. AC unit was installed in the wine cellar directly behind access door (under steps). Ductwork runs through wine cellar, around dinette area to register above closet in forward berth, to floor grille behind lower helm (port side) and lastly through end table between sofa and galley. While it’s an out of the way location, access to the water heater, wiring junction blocks and water tank are close to impossible. Any major repair/maintenance will require the removal of the AC unit. An alternate location would be a benefit. Giving up the drawer/storage at the dinette may be worthwhile.

Missy's Haven is a '79 32 Sedan with the air ( i think an RV unit) in the roof behind the seat and under it. Runs on 110 shore or off the generator, no ducts no headaches, and it will frost the windows by dark. KISS! (Keep It Simply Stupid)
Now for the harder things on "the Honey Do List"....
Gotta replace rear deck with i hope aluminum. Gotta' have a rum and think about this...... Cheers!

The wine cellar is the storage area on the other side of the firewall. 28' boats do not have this and perhaps the 32' express and fisherman's don't either? I know all 32+ sedans have this void.

My AC was run under the dinette seat (32' sedan) so no need to remove the entire assembly as some have done to run the hose. The other hose runs under the galley counter and into the head. Comes out on very upper right corner of cabinet.
Be hard to run hose through head and into v-berth. I'd just re route the hose from wine cellar through wall and under dinette seats and into hanging locker in v-berth. I have 1 outlet on top of hanging locker and 1 right above the outlet on the fore side of the locker. It blows air directly up into berth and right back out, like a loop. Helps control moisture/mold.

I made a wooden junction box that mates w/ the AC in the cellar. It distributes the air quite efficiently.

-Karl

I am concerned on air flow to the salon, with its windows, door, and the fact hot air rises cold air falls.

I am thinking of installing two of the three grills in the cabinet next the fold out. One aimed toward the salon the other aimed toward the dining area. If more cooling is need in one area the vents could be redirected.

How hard is it to keep the salon cool with marine air?

Noisy unless you sound-proof it pretty well..
Perhaps, the newer units are quieter