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Rudder & shaft isolation
trontek
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 01, 2009 8:55:02 AM(UTC)
trontek

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100k ohms between shaft & hull/engine block with couplers separated. 600ohms between rudder shaft & hull. boat is out of the water & dry except for 'bout 1/2" rainwater. New shaft & cutlass bearing, old rudder shaft bearings. New strip zincs on rudder were really eaten up after about one month in the water & the shaft zinc also looked a bit tired.... Gonna try to pull the steering cable & check again with the meter.

Could there be enough garbage in the tunnel to get continuity?

Jim
Jim

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tr_guy79
#2 Posted : Wednesday, April 01, 2009 9:36:03 AM(UTC)
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I am no Marinette expert, but I do have an electrical background. Are you sure you have non-metallic strut bearings? That is the only way I can think of with the shafts disconnected from the transmission, that you would have anything other than infinite resistance. The rudders could be from the steering system, or from the non mettalic bearings also.

-Shane
"McKenna Renee"
1972 '32 FB Express. Twin 318 / Edelbrock 1409s
Chesapeake City Md (Upper Bay / C&D Canal)
Ed
#3 Posted : Wednesday, April 01, 2009 2:54:24 PM(UTC)
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Also make sure you keep your fingers off the end of the of meter leads. If you touch the metal ends you will be measuring the resistance of your body. ( finger to finger ) Zero your ohmmeter and have it on a high scale. You should get a reading in the Mega Ohm range. If not, start looking.-- Ed
BUSIA
32 foot, no flybridge, twin 350 (chevy) Crusaders, closed (freshwater) cooling, 1:1 Velvet drive transmissions.
Proud to be IBEW.
trontek
#4 Posted : Friday, April 03, 2009 3:32:51 AM(UTC)
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Update on ohm meter readings: Discovered yesterday that the readings act as a semiconductor! Switch leads and one way get an open (on highest range with the Simpson AND a digital meter) and the other way get continuity. Makes NO sense to me Brick wall

Going to the boat now and will disconnect the battery(which also makes no sense at this time). Will post again if no effect on readings. I'm positive I had good contact with the meter probes.
Jim

Ed
#5 Posted : Friday, April 03, 2009 5:36:08 AM(UTC)
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It's not a diode---you have a voltage accross the points you are measuring. .
Not good. Reads like that because the ohm meter is really a current (or amp meter ) reading the current from the little 9 volt battery in the meter. That's why you have to zero it. The scale is just labeled backwards ( or inversly ) because the more resistance you have the less current flows.
Now have a beer,unhook the battery and check everything. Then go through the wiring and rip out all the crap that previous owners have put in and do it right. You'll be glad you did and things will work and be safe. You do enjoy doing this with all your free time and money don't you? Now you don't have any time or money for the bars, but you might have to go to church to pray for patience or to ask forgiveness for all the swearing it took to fix the boat.Been there, done that. Still doing that. Never done, always something to do on the boat.--Ed
BUSIA
32 foot, no flybridge, twin 350 (chevy) Crusaders, closed (freshwater) cooling, 1:1 Velvet drive transmissions.
Proud to be IBEW.
Roger2
#6 Posted : Friday, April 03, 2009 6:22:42 AM(UTC)
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trontek,
try a D C voltage reading. I'm thinking that the prop & rudder shafts are producing a small voltage, 1 1/2 volts.
the alu hull- rubber bushing- stainless shaft = a weak battery. especially if a little moisture in bushing.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
Gypsy Girl
#7 Posted : Wednesday, April 08, 2009 1:22:54 AM(UTC)
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Another subject,is there a good reference place to interchange parts from one M to another with regards to shafts,rudders, and props.
Such as 28' shafts and rudders to a 32'(twins)
could not find at Marinette.com
Anthony






"figure it out"
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