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yooper
#1 Posted : Thursday, May 07, 2009 7:21:10 AM(UTC)
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I was looking around for some gasoline fume detectors for my project 32'. Mostly what I found was the Xintex line. The extra features I need to consider are 2 channels and a bilge blower activation connection. The basic one channel 2" round unit is about $127. The top of the line square unit with 2 channels and bilge blower activation is about $254 plus $54 for the second sender. I put the basic unit in my project 28' single engine boat. What do you guys recommended for the twins? At the dock or underway the bilge blower feature seems like a good one.

P.S. While I was surfing I found Ultrasonic Fuel Tank senders at Starmarinedepot.com for $94 apiece. I just put in two new swing arms. Any of you undeserving rich peaple tried them yet? You know who you are.
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dependo
#2 Posted : Thursday, May 07, 2009 8:20:49 AM(UTC)
dependo

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This redneck poor man put in one & has worked well several times both for fuel & exhust fumes on my twin engine 32. I have always wondered if I would trust a blower if fumes were present. Wayne





1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"Chattanooga
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fastjeff
#3 Posted : Thursday, May 07, 2009 10:34:05 AM(UTC)
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I have a Fireboy on mine. Much cheaper (naturally) and simpler to install. Keep in mind that the detector heads only last a few years before needing replacement.

Jeff
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pfhlaw
#4 Posted : Thursday, May 07, 2009 12:12:49 PM(UTC)
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Yoop:
I finally replaced my defective fuel sender last year but it was not reading correctly.
I bought the Tempo brand that you can cut to the proper depth of your tank. Turns out that after I cut it to size, I installed the pivot arm upside down. DOH!!!!

Every time I filled up, the gauge would go down. I finally figured it out and fixed it.

I also installed a Xintex MR-1 with auto blower function. It only has one sensor zone, but I think that's enough. I test it periodically with a rag soaked in fuel. Replacement sensors are very expensive. $65-$75. But blowing up is even more expensive.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebay...;_trksid=p4506.m20.l1116
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Thursday, May 07, 2009 1:12:58 PM(UTC)
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A safer way to test fume dector sensor is to us a butane light.. gas only DO NOT IGNITE!

Remember that your nose is much more sensitive to gas fumes than the detector. Do your own sniff test prior to fireoff after ventalating the bilge for a min. of 3 min.

dave
None
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dependo
#6 Posted : Friday, May 08, 2009 6:00:51 AM(UTC)
dependo

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while we are talking about fume dectors let ask group this question. When I refuel after about 5 min. into pumping my fume dector goes off. I stop Open the hatch (express) smell, no gas, reset dector & pump some more. 3 or 4 min later same thing. Checked for leaks. Replaced fuel inlet hose. same thing when I refuel. only times it happens. Last time I even pluged the bilge vent nearest fuel cap thinking fumes were entering from outside, no change. I always run blower after fueling for 5 min. I don't think you are supposed to run blower while pumping, rright? thanks, wayne
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"Chattanooga
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AlumiJim
#7 Posted : Friday, May 08, 2009 6:29:07 AM(UTC)
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I agree regarding getting fumes during refueling. I must admit that I have been know to run the bilge blower, figuring it's spark arrested and must be of some help. But regulations say turn off battery banks, run the blower AFTER fueling. In my humble opinion, if it's already running, it's evacuating vapors as they occur, but rules are rules. I have no leaks, but the fules sure do build up.

Attached is the list of regulations from the Coast Guard Auxiliary:

http://www.auxguidanceskills.info/press/fuel-fishing.html


JIM
Alexandria, VA
1989 32' Sedan
'Gammelby'
Friendship, MD
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jralbert
#8 Posted : Friday, May 08, 2009 10:11:22 AM(UTC)
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I'm told a lighted match would be a fail-safe way to detect fumes to see if your detector is false-alarming or measuring correctly. I was told that by the same guy that gave me stock tips two years ago. Same results.
I would keep the blower off because one never knows when the spark arrestor thing goes south. What does the mfr say about testing it? Sometimes, for merely the cost of shipping, they'll test it for you.
BTW, this is a great thread - it's time for me to get a new detector front end or maybe, the whole shebang. Too important.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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dougrose
#9 Posted : Friday, May 08, 2009 3:43:49 PM(UTC)
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You could always go diesel. That way, you can smell the fumes ALL THE TIME, but they won't blow up....

I have had good luck with capacitive fuel senders from Centroid Products, and they are quite a bit cheaper...


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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pfhlaw
#10 Posted : Saturday, May 09, 2009 3:54:22 AM(UTC)
pfhlaw

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Gas fumes are heavier than air so there may be fumes down low in the bilge where the sensor is but your nose isn't.

I noticed that the manual for my original fume detector (circa 1981) suggests testing the sensor with a rag soaked in gas, but my new Xintex Fireboy manual says not to IN BIG TYPE. They were both made by the same company. Things change. They now suggest a butane lighter as Dave does.

Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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