I am now the owner of 10 gallons of Ameron F-152 two part epoxy paint.

What in the world am I going to do with 10 gallons!!!?????

Well in any case, I am still trying to track down any info on the paint, other than the MSDS. I plan to do the hull sides and decks with it. At a 5 hour pot time, I am not sure that how well it will turn out, being done outside, but anything is better than the paint that is (and isn't) there.

Now I need to find a local source of Zinc Chromate. If I would stop putting it off, I would have ordered it online and had it by now.....


Anyone ever use it, or hear of it?

-Shane

Any of the aircraft shops will have zinc cromate or tell you where to get it. Also much cheaper and more skilled labor than most boat yards. You might talk to spme of them about painting your boat. --Ed

I am not painting bare metal for the most part. Maybe small areas here and there. My plan is to scuff, and lay over current paint.

Places where the current paint is missing (here and there), I will sand, acetone, and immediately zinc chromate. Keep in mind this is ALL above the waterline, and I am not expecting a 20 year job. I'll be happy if it turns out to be a 2-3 year job. The paint is a low sheen finish anyway, so there is no way to get a great looking job out of it. Just think of it as putting lipstick on a pig.... LOL

Good point, Jeff. The acetone thing just won't work and the Gougeon - West System method is a good one, if the user is particular enough to use it. I should have mentioned, the Interlux product I wrote about yesterday also etches, the system works well and the primer is available in small containers for anyone with only "touch-up" work.

When we repainted last year, we removed all hardware, prepped all those fun places where stainless screws are in contact with our battery (oops, I meant hull). If I recall, I bought a quart of the etching primer and had some left over at the end of the project.

I mean no offense TR, but if you plan to paint over problems, you're only creating more for later. Take it a step at a time and do each area right, it's a worthwhile investment in time and cheaper in the long run.

I know how to sand off, but not sand in. I am trying to picture what you are saying, but am drawing a blank. Tried googling it with no success either.

-Shane

I'll admit it sounds a bit weird! Here's the drill:

1. Sand the aluminum to bare metal in the usual fashion

2. Make up some CLEAR epoxy

3. Dab the epoxy with some 40 grit sandpaper and "wet sand" the aluminum with the epoxy.

You'll be stunned (and appreciative) of the volume,e oxide coating you just removed as the clear will turn gray. And no way can you sand the metal bright, then hit it with the wet sand trick, without seeing gray--I've tried it! The oxide forms that quickly.

Jeff

I don't want to turn this into a debate over which system is superior, because both work equally well. For someone who wants to "just paint", the Interlux system makes sense to me, because it is so user friendly. I absolutely agree on the speed with which oxidation starts, which is why you need an etching primer OR heavy grit wet sanding with West System, which can get real messy if you're not into the process.

From what I've read from Shane, he wants to get this done as quickly and cheaply as he can and the Interlux (or equal) etching/epoxy is ideal.

Then, Shane, for your question on the 10 Gallons, the yellow zinc chromate receives a subsequent coat of regular primer, followed by finish paint. I'm off to an appointment and don't have time now to look at the spec for what you own, but I wouldn't be surprised if they had a comparable etching primer of their own or if their own primer is compatible on top of the Interlux etching primer.

The key is, whatever system you elect to use, follow it to the letter, particular on ratios when mixing two or more components and you'll end up okay. See if your manufacturer has a user friendly help site - with Interlux, you can enter info on your vessel and it'll work it up for you.

I saw a photo on through hulls on the site recently, it looked like they used the Interlux Zinc Chromate or similar, because it was a translucent yellow. I'll look for it later, unless someone out there knows which photo I'm referring to - I think it was in just the last week or two.

Shane, here's my 2 cents:

1. Clean and degrease surface before sanding.
2. Use a zinc chromate primer withing 1 hour after sanding to bright metal.
3. Use a 2 part epoxy primer over the ZC primer.
4. Test the white top coat on the existing paint in an inconspicuous spot. Sometimes the epoxy will soften or dissolve the old paint and leave a hell of a mess. If so, you'll have to use a compatable 2 part epoxy primer then the top coat.
5. If at all possible, roll and tip. Spraying outside is a nightmare.

The purpose of a zinc chromate primer is to etch the metal so the next paint layer can have a mechanical bond to the metal. The etchant actually creates a rough surface or "tooth" as the pros say. There are several brands, but I recommend Moeller.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebay...tsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

It's formulated for marine use above or below the water. It's nasty stuff because of the zinc chromate. Use a resperator approved for chemicals and paint fumes (NIOSH/MSHA).

Good Luck.

I get confused about the role of zinc chromate primer. I thought that it's purpose is to sacrifice itself as a kind of galvinizing layer between the substrate and moisture or oxygen. Modern topcoats are supposed to seal out moisture and oxygen. A wash primer is basically an acid in suspension used to chemically etch the substrate so that a mechanical bond can be made. A etching primer kind of combines a wash primer and regular primer and is used most often in one part systems. Also zinc chromate is implicated in lung cancer. In any case detailed application instructions should be supplied with any two part system. I used a one part system over an existing finish. I carried some etching primer in a compressed air spray bottle. Wherever I sanded through to bare aluminum I tacked and sprayed immediateley.

I had some paint failure but it was the topcoat flaking off the primer coat. Reviewing my procedures I should have cleaned and degreased the boat thoroughly before I started sanding. Then kept it clean until the topcoat went on. Also I painted outside and might have not have removed all the dew moisture. Also I did not cover the hull through the first winter.

Cleaning an degreasing should start before sanding with detergent like Dawn and lots of rinsing. Then you use a metal cleaner paint prep solution compatible with your paint system. You need to get off all the old wax. Keep cleaning as you sand and fill and between coats. Here I made an error. You use the cleaner to scub the surface dry keeping cloths clean. I kind of just wiped it on an let it and evaporate. Any contaminents would have just floated around. I was outside with bugs tree sap and morning dew.