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Richard Wiley
#1 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 4:02:58 AM(UTC)
Richard Wiley

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I did a complete engine room inspection on May 16 in preperation for a Memorial Weekend trip up river to Sallisaw OK. On Thursday evening the 21st when I open the cabin door I was overwhelmed with the smell of gasoline. The bilge had at least 5 gallons of gas. I shut off all power and began the search for the source of the leak. Turns out that wooden blocks that were installed to keep the tanks in place, has with moisture and time, caused electrolysis to eat holes in the tanks. See attached photo of 2x4 block. I used a barrel pump to empty both 120 gal. tanks. Then cleaned the affected areas and sealed the holes with fibreglass and epoxy.
File Attachment(s):
tank repair 003.jpg (136kb) downloaded 126 time(s).
tank repair 002.jpg (147kb) downloaded 127 time(s).
tank repair 001.jpg (178kb) downloaded 127 time(s).
Richard Wiley

"Church Belle" '76 37' FB Sedan
Twin Chevy 350's Electronic fuel injection
18x18 props
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tr_guy79
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:13:19 AM(UTC)
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Sounds like a pretty straight forward fix.... I would be careful with the fix though... Ethanol easts polyester (and possibly others) resin. This is why so many people are having problems with using E10(+) in their boats and the tanks failing.

If it wasn't too hard to get to, I would redo with some JB weld.

Just my $.02

-Shane
"McKenna Renee"
1972 '32 FB Express. Twin 318 / Edelbrock 1409s
Chesapeake City Md (Upper Bay / C&D Canal)
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fastjeff
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 9:35:56 AM(UTC)
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Shane makes a good point, and 15 % ethanol is on the evil horizon.

Noted surveyor David Pascoe states that the only safe way to install aluminum tanks is to glue the rubber strips to it with a thick layer of 3M 5200. Since Marinette MAY not have used that method, I pray mine hold up a few years longer.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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jralbert
#4 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 11:04:36 AM(UTC)
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Mine WAS installed with the rubber strips between the tank and the supports. From what I can eyeball, it's holding well (at least til we get down to the boat this weekend and find ourselves sloshing in fuel). Boat US has done pretty detailed updates on E-10 (or is it now E-15) and the stuff is murder on many kinds of fiberglassed tanks. Hope it's not too late to carry out The Shane Fix.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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Richard Wiley
#5 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 1:10:45 PM(UTC)
Richard Wiley

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I tried J B Weld first. Let it set overnight. It leaked immediately when I put gas in the tank. The leak was on the front of the starboard tank, easy to get to. I only buy non ethanol gasoline so hopefully I'll be ok. The factory hold down brackets have a rubber strip under them.
Richard Wiley

"Church Belle" '76 37' FB Sedan
Twin Chevy 350's Electronic fuel injection
18x18 props
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cap'n Brent
#6 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 4:45:26 PM(UTC)
cap'n Brent

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wow twin 120s Im drinking at your place IM glad I changed my steal tank out now than after I found a leak my change out job is now finished I put rubber in sadels then fire hose under straps test ran the twins to day after oil change every thing ok so far btm touch up and hopefully in lk Erie by monday.
HP Chadwick bay Sunset Bay lake Erie NY boat name Sunrise 32' f/b fisherman chry 318 twin blue bastards,28'express singel 318
"It would be a labor of love, if I loved to labor" cpt Brent
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ComputerJoe
#7 Posted : Wednesday, May 27, 2009 11:17:07 PM(UTC)
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Did you sand the JB weld onto the tank as talked about with painting without the etching primer?
Being aluminum the JB would have the same challenges as paint sticking to the metal.

I would hope that all your damage is visable damage and there is none inside the tanks. I would worry about the entire area being weakened. When I next run my tanks empty the will be some neoprene strips insulating the wood cradle from my tanks.
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