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Low Capac meter readings
DCOOPER
#1 Posted : Thursday, June 18, 2009 8:04:45 AM(UTC)
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Hi everyone,

Been a while since i've posted but I have a new dilemna - I have a single engine (gas) 72' 28 foot express. I've owned the boat for about 7 years and it has always been in salt water in the patuxent river/ chesapeake bay. I've pulled it every spring for barrier coat, bottom paint, and the anode kit from marinette with the exception of one 2 year period. My Capac readings have always been between .9 and 1.05 - to the point I worried the meter didn't work.
Last spring (08) I pulled the boat after a year in the water and did the usual paint/anode process and my readings were the usual. I haven't done it yet this year.

Yesterday I went down to the boat and just as an afterthought hit the capac button and got a reading of .7. My trim tab anodes are still there though with the usual 1 years worth of deteriorization. I quickly went to boat US abd bought a zinc guppy - no change in the reading.
There are a few new boats at the marina this year.
My starter is giving me trouble.
These are the only things I can think of that have changed.

Questions -
1. Is the .7 reading dangerously low? I can't get the boat pulled for about a week so I'm worried.
2. Does the normal zinc guppy work or do I need a mag guppy? (i'm in salt water by Solomon's Island)
3. What could be causing the readings?

Thanks for any help you can offer, this is really freaking me out - I keep daydreaming about going to the marina to see her sunk with holes in the hull.

V/R
Dave
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Barkleydave
#2 Posted : Thursday, June 18, 2009 10:31:32 AM(UTC)
Barkleydave

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Sounds like you have lost anode contact with the hull or just crusted up with barnicles etc.

A zink guppy should raise it a little. A mag should bring it up but will not last long in salt water.

safe boating,
dave
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fastjeff
#3 Posted : Thursday, June 18, 2009 11:05:43 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Whoa! First of all, check that meter head to be sure the needle isn't sticking. Pull the head and put a digital volt meter across the two leads (set on 2 volts DC scale). If you see 0.07 volts, the Capac meter is okay and you have an anode problem.

Bet you'll see at least 0.09 volts, however!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#4 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 8:29:23 AM(UTC)
dougrose

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0.07 volts? 0.09 volts? shouldn't it be 0.9 volts? I think that's what I get....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#5 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 9:32:12 AM(UTC)
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So I misplaced one little zero! Sheesh. That Capac "9 to 1.2" stuff confused me. Captain Doug is correct: The range we are all looking for is 0.9 to 1.2 volts generated by our anodes.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

ComputerJoe
#6 Posted : Friday, June 19, 2009 10:49:25 AM(UTC)
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Jeff has the same problem when writing out a personal check...decimal point dyplexia.
fastjeff
#7 Posted : Saturday, June 20, 2009 1:08:57 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Yeah, and in the same direction!

0.00Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Barkleydave
#8 Posted : Saturday, June 20, 2009 3:20:05 AM(UTC)
Barkleydave

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Fiberglass w/ Inboard Engine(s) -750 to -1000 mV
Fiberglass w/ Aluminum Outdrive(s) -900 to -1050 mV
Aluminum -900 to -1100 mV
Steel -800 to -1050 mV
Wood -550 to -600 mV

Voltage readings below (more positive) indicate that underwater metals
connected to the bonding system are under-protected and may be corroding.

Voltage readings above (more negative) indicate that underwater metals
connected to the bonding system are over-protected and causing vessel
damage.



Voltages Below Recommended

Each underwater metal is protected from corrosion when its cathodic
protection system is able to induce and maintain a negative shift of at least
200 mV. For the four most common marine metals this means:

Aluminum (e.g., outdrives, hulls)
• Minimum corrosion protection voltage is -900mV

Mild Steel (e.g., hulls, rudders, tanks)
• Minimum corrosion protection voltage is -800 mV

Stainless Steel (e.g., propeller shafts, rudder posts, trim tabs, propellers)
• Minimum protection voltage is -750 mV

Bronze (e.g., propellers, thru hull fittings, seacocks, struts)
• Minimum corrosion protection is -550 mV

If the voltage of one of your underwater metals is less (more positive) than
these, you need to check your cathodic protection system -- usually done by
simply replacing depleted sacrificial anodes.



Voltages Exceeding Recommended

Overprotection can create conditions that damage underwater hull coatings, aluminum alloy metals and wooden hulls.

• Steel and fiberglass hulls -- decreased effectiveness of anti-fouling
paints and barrier coatings when made more negative than -1100 mV.

• Aluminum hulls and outdrives -- highly susceptible to alkali corrosion of
its metal, and hydrogen blistering of its paint coatings, when made more
negative than -1200 mV.

• Wooden hulls -- destruction of wood fibers (alkali delignification) occurs
around metal fittings made more negative than -650 mV.



Overprotection usually occurs from one the following conditions:
Using the wrong type of anodes (e.g., magnesium anodes in saltwater);

• A defective impressed-current corrosion controller;

• Stray DC currents originating from defective wiring or equipment within
your vessel.

The most common source of stray currents is a defective bilge pump, float
switch or wire insulation -- each of which carry +12 VDC submerged in bilge
water. Make sure these electrical devices (and wire splices!) are inspected
and tested for electrical leakage.

Source:
http://www.boatzincs.com/

*Readings will be slightly lower in fresh water.

Safe Boating,
dave
None
Roger2
#9 Posted : Sunday, June 21, 2009 6:05:29 AM(UTC)
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I put my 37 in on April, 16 with all new anodes and meter has been showing 0.6 slowing increasing.
I checked this AM & it's finaly up to 0.9.
I was really surprised that it took this long.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
Barkleydave
#10 Posted : Sunday, June 21, 2009 8:37:52 AM(UTC)
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Rodger,

Don't be surprised to see your reading flucuate. The continuity changes constantly with quality, salinity, temp., and clearity.

dave
None
Gypsy Girl
#11 Posted : Sunday, June 21, 2009 3:30:11 PM(UTC)
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Now I am no longer comfortable..
I spent 2 months on the hard after getting readings of .04 yes .04...
After spalshing in the salty river just north of Chesapeake Bay I was happy to see .33
I was happy all the way home tonight and now not sure..?
A


On another note , does anyone know the "Proper" method for bypassing the synchro ??
I have been told 2 different ways:
1 install a resistor( value of resistor unknown) in the wire from the ignitions to the purple wires leading to the electronic control module
2 jumper the purples to another wire in the harness leading to the ecm(unknown which wire)

jc000
#12 Posted : Monday, June 22, 2009 3:42:14 AM(UTC)
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I have a new to me 28 single engine express. It has had a low reading .7 and I have been reading this sight, trying to figure out what to do. Bought a guppy from John A. , droped in water and connected ground to stainless steel top bow and felt better. When I went to boat this weekend it read .6. Grounded the shaft to the hull with a screwdriver and the guage did not move. Should I pull the boat and try to get this fixed or will it be OK untill fall.

Love the boat have put 70 hours. Have had alternator proplem, water heater leak, small oil leak. I think all of this is part of the boating experence.

Thank for any Ideas.
Roger2
#13 Posted : Monday, June 22, 2009 5:33:50 AM(UTC)
Roger2

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jc000,
Grounded prop shaft is most likely at the coupling, you can check & repair this without pulling boat out of the water.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
fastjeff
#14 Posted : Monday, June 22, 2009 6:59:16 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Check the Capac meter with a digital voltmeter BEFORE doing anything. I've seen a bunch of these have the needle stick and trick you.

Pullthe head and measure the voltage across the two terminals with a meter on 2 volts DC.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

DCOOPER
#15 Posted : Tuesday, June 23, 2009 4:11:20 AM(UTC)
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Alright I managed to plead effectively enough to get my boat up on the local rail lift this past weekend. You were right - I had a FOREST of barnacles on her. The most i've ever seen. This is for only one year in the water. When I had it in for 2 years I don't remember them being this bad. I guess I could have gotten some bad paint (i've always used TRI-LUX) or maybe the barnacles are just worse this year in the Chesapeake. So new paint and metals are going on and she should be back in the water tomorrow. Thanks for all the feedback

Dave C
jralbert
#16 Posted : Tuesday, June 23, 2009 10:51:00 AM(UTC)
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Listen to the Jeffster - meters stick. Last year, I am positive mine did. Launched and got a great capac reading of -.1.2. Three wks later, it plunged to a 6 then 5 then 3...Barnies also a factor. I had the bottom cleaned and it shot back up. Barnies and the meter team up to scare the hell out of us aluminum tubsters.

This year..ditto. Four wks after launch, a plunging capac (-.6). I am more relaxed than I was last year.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
DCOOPER
#17 Posted : Wednesday, June 24, 2009 4:18:56 AM(UTC)
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She got put back in the water this morning. Didn't get any replies to the thread about how to get barnacles off the meter but did the best I could with a plastic ice scraper I have for the windsheild in my car, it worked pretty well!
The meter wasn't frozen but I notice it now doesn't go all the way back to zero when you let off the button. It Stops at about .04 so there is some sticking I guess. Either way I scraped the bottom, sanded, primoconned, and put new paint and metals on her, relaunched and have a reading of 1.1 (not sure if the meter sticking really means it's 1.06 or not)
Thanks again for all the help,
Dave
fastjeff
#18 Posted : Wednesday, June 24, 2009 2:34:38 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Pull the meter head out and check it with a regular volt meter set on the 2 volts DC scale. Harbor Freight sells meters for under 5 bucks. I have several (uh-humm).

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

pfhlaw
#19 Posted : Thursday, June 25, 2009 2:34:27 AM(UTC)
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Dave:
The capac meter has a small clear plastic screw on the lower part of the face. It is for calibrating the meter.
First zero it out then use an accurate digital multimeter to confirm accuracy when you push the button.
The back of my meter is accessible from the small door on the galley wall.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
tundrarules
#20 Posted : Saturday, April 10, 2010 1:34:03 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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Checked my rudders for isolation yesterday, guess what! Brick wall Getting 150 ohms with drive cables disconnected. Prop shafts ok. What parts and where should I get them? Going to need them before Thursday which is pullout dayApplause
1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
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