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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 12/27/2007
Posts: 42
Points: 29
Location: Tennessee
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recently when i turn on my water pump. it does not want to stop running and making clicking sound. I assume i must have a leak somewhere and it can not build up preasure.
any suggestions on where to start looking for the problem?
89 28 express
- steve
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Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/16/2007
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Location: Petersburg, Illinois
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It will do that if out of water.
Roger
"Life's tough......It's even tougher if you're stupid."
-John Wayne
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Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
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Location: Pittsburgh, PA
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Steve:
Check your water heater. When winterizing, you disconnect the hoses from the heater but connect them together to run the antifreeze through the lines. You also open the heater drain valve. If you do not get the hoses back on correctly and remember to close the drain valve, the transfer pump will run constantly. It will transfer water from the main tank to the water heater in the engine compartment and fill your bilge. It should now be obvious why I know this. . .
If that isn't the problem, check you connections at the tanks and at the faucets. On my 28' express there is a junction just forward of the port engine and another underneath the aft companionway hatch.
Good luck!
Joe
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Joined: 12/27/2007
Posts: 42
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Location: Tennessee
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thanks
ends up my pump is leaking. I have an odd looking pump jabsco 36950-1000 it uses a small fan belt. I will search the web to decide if it can be rebuilt or replace with a self contained unit.
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Rank: Administration
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Joined: 12/4/2007
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Location: Potomac MD
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Jabsco probably makes a repair kit for that unit. For what it's worth, I ditched my fan-drive belt years ago. Belt kept slipping off and was a royal pain to get at it for adjustment. So, I went with the self-contained drive type. No more crawling into the "wine cellar". Also, it cycles less when cold water is drawn.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 32' FBS
docked Deale, MD
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/4/2007
Posts: 291
Points: -176
Location: Lake Barkley
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Pump housing is probably cracked and impeller is bad.. belt slipage etc.
Will cost more to rebuild than to replace with a piston driven diaphram pump.
Will draw less amps and easier to service/replace.
I like the old belt drives on larger vessels with lots of water draw demands only when they are easy to get to to maintain.
safe boating,
dave
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Does it look like this?  If so you would be better off with one of these  you can also do away with pipe nipples and use threaded fittings to make winterizing much easier. -Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors Original Site Member Since: 5/18/1999.
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Rank: Advanced Member
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Location: Tennessee
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THANKS TO ALL for feedback.
yes, the photo is dead on to what i have. Great advice.
steve
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Take Karl's advice and toss that old clunker out. I did and have never regretted it.
Jeff
"If you put the federal government in charge of the Sahara Desert , in five years there’d be a shortage of sand.”
~ Milton Friedman
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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I fitted one of the new pumps to my boat. It says that it will run dry, but if it does so for long the brushes will be used up. This happened to me when I inadvertently left the water system on while away from the boat for a while. The pump itself was OK, but the motor brushes were just dust. I had to remachine the commutator and cut brushes to fit (I am too cheap to pay their prices for rectangles of graphite, take that FJ!). I have fixed the problem by adding the water switch to my shutdown list. Eventually, I will fit a pressure sensor that shuts down the pump if water pressure is lost.
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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