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Sparky
#1 Posted : Tuesday, July 21, 2009 3:31:56 PM(UTC)
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I have a 77 32 Sedan w/ 318 Chrys. power want to change over to 4 battery set up 2 for starting and 2 for accessories concerned about wiring them correctly to allow them to charge from alternators and will I have to add some kind of a switch to go from crank and run to engines off accessories in use my boat only had 2 batteries when I purchased it has a switch for ea. engine to use one batt. or both or to turn off completely have had hard starting issues doesn't crank as fast as I think it should I purchased 2 1000amp deep cycle marine batteries and ordered a new starter for starboard eng. and hope with a little help from you guys I have it in the water by next week Thanks Sparky
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Tuesday, July 21, 2009 10:29:16 PM(UTC)
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You'll need at least one Perko switch with the "1, 2, ALL, and OFF" settings. I assume your battery paralleling switch is working so you can jump the batteries as needed.

For charging, the alternators will take care of that, but keep this in mind: For the port batteries all you need is a trickle charger, but for the house batteries a good automatic shut off charger is essential. (Took me years to figure that out.)

Jeff

PS: I replaced the momentary push button on the battery paralleling switch with a lighted toggle. That way I can use both alternators to charge all the batteries as we go along.
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jhemp3
#3 Posted : Wednesday, July 22, 2009 12:05:54 AM(UTC)
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How do you trouble shoot a battery paralling switch?
Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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GB49
#4 Posted : Wednesday, July 22, 2009 12:37:14 AM(UTC)
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jhemp3 wrote:
How do you trouble shoot a battery paralling switch?


Its just a solenoid like a starter solenoid for an engine. 2 small 12V are closed by you pushing the switch/button on the helm. That creates the "kerplunk" you hear as the solenoid closes and allows much larger wires to pass much more current which allows the engine starter to draw power from the 2nd battery.



The solenoid in the Marinette looks a little different but it has the same lugs. You can test the lugs with a multimeter to see if 12V are going through both the little and big lugs.
I think there is also a fuse inline with our solenoids. You can check that for continuity.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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dougrose
#5 Posted : Wednesday, July 22, 2009 12:49:52 AM(UTC)
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A starting battery for each engine is a great idea. I believe that the best batteries for this are Optima spiral cell AGM batteries, they are expensive but I bought mine in '2000 and they are still going strong.

There is a lot to be said for completely separate starting circuits for each engine, but I have set mine up with two explosion-proof battery switches so that I can connect either battery to either engine, or both batteries to one engine, if needed. Some folks prefer to keep short jumper cables handy for emergencies, but watch out for sparks.

I have a third battery switch for the two house batteries, so that I can run the boat on either or both of them. The idea was that I could drain one and still have the other. I now think that this is too complicated, one large AGM battery should do the trick. I have a pair of 75 A-hr Optimas, and they are good for three days at anchor. Try to reduce power use to keep the size of this battery down (LED lights, etc.)

I use a 65-watt solar cell to provide a trickle charge to the starting batteries. Even if dock power fails and everything goes flat, I can start. I use a 15A dual-output float charger for the house batteries.

I charge all batteries simultaneously using a diode splitter that I built myself. Doing it again, I would buy a couple of those combiners that connect the batteries automatically when one is being charged. I would also get a multistage charger for the house batteries, a little bigger than the 15A I have now.

You can see the way I have wired my boat at www.geocities.com/dougmrose


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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jhemp3
#6 Posted : Wednesday, August 12, 2009 12:10:57 PM(UTC)
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I've been out of contact for a few days and hadn't seen Karl's post. Great job and thanks for the pics. I think I can run the tests next time at the boat.
Thanks again Karl,
Jim
Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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jhemp3
#7 Posted : Thursday, August 20, 2009 9:31:46 AM(UTC)
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Just returned from a visit with Detour and here is a picture of my battery cross-over solenoid. I am assuming the missing small stud is a ground and the unit is grounded extra wire on the back post. Im not getting any "clunk" sound from the unit when the button is pushed but my lack of electrical savy is keeping me from having confidence in my diagnosis. The solenoid seems to check out but the button may not. It will be a while before I get back to work on it and since I have a spare solenoid, I think I'll just change it out and see what happens. Almost forgot, the big in-line fuse is showing no resistance so it should be ok.
Jim
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Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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pfhlaw
#8 Posted : Friday, August 21, 2009 1:41:01 AM(UTC)
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Jim:
You are correct, that white wire is the ground.
If this is a battery parallel solenoid then both of the larger studs should be energized all the time.
With a meter, check that you've got 12v between the white ground and each battery stud.
Using a jumper wire from either large stud, you should be able to touch the small screw
pos. terminal and make the switch close.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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jhemp3
#9 Posted : Friday, August 21, 2009 12:53:48 PM(UTC)
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It's all so clear when I hear someone describe these electrical things and so hard when I'm trying to figure them out without help. Thanks.
Jim
Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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