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The HedgeHog
#1 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 10:31:25 AM(UTC)
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I have been inquiring into having my 37 Marquis repainted and need some guidance from the pros.

My thought was to do the rubrail up for now and do the sides and bottom when it needs new bottom paint in a couple of years.

I have heard everything from "Its not a big deal, you just need to get someone to prep it right and roll it" to $15-$20k estimates using Imron.

My inclination is to go back with a more of a satin finish because imperfections will not show as much and I can do it in two stages (top then bottom).

What do you guys recommend? I would like to hear all angles. The boat is stored in a covered slip and I have posted a pic on the boat and pic section. It is not exactly a beater but it does need paint. I am not looking to make it a show piece. I just want a nice clean look but don't want a crappy job that will flake in a couple of years.
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 1:34:36 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Can you spray paint where your boat is? If not, try learning the roll and tip method. Just redid the hand railings on mine with Petit polyurethane and a foam brush it came out great;and that's without using the additive that improves the finish when not sprayed on. (It takes some practice, some experimenting with thinner ratios and no sun, but it works excellent--especially with a satin finish.)

Step one, however, is preparation, followed by preparation, preparation, preparation! You'll want to sandblast off what's there, etch the metal, add fairing compound (if necessary) to level the surface, put one at least two coats of epoxy barrier coat, then sand and solvent clean the surface before applying the finish coats. Lots of work and not cheap.

See? Those guys charging all that money earn it!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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old32
#3 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 1:41:08 PM(UTC)
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jeff ,why sandblast we used stripper on the aft seat and inner walls seemed to work good.am i screwing up?


tim
72 32' express
"http://www.theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat_Express_Cruiser_marinette_1972_anticipation"
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pfhlaw
#4 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 2:54:28 PM(UTC)
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I agree with Jeff with one exception. You don't need to sandblast the whole topside area to be painted. Check for any paint that is showing signs of chipping or blistering. Any paint that isn't adhering must be sanded down to bare metal then etch it before using a 2-part epoxy barrier coat. then use a 2-part marine fairing compound on any divots then a primer coat of the 2-part epoxy barrier coat. This will also act as a tie coat which ties the original paint to the new finnish coat. Use a 2-part epoxy or urethane topside paint if you intend to keep the boat. A single part topside paint will not last as long and will not fully cure (harden). When you go to sand it next time you paint, it will gum up your sandpaper.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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The HedgeHog
#5 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 3:18:09 PM(UTC)
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Oh I know that they earn it. Like to know what is norm
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GB49
#6 Posted : Monday, July 27, 2009 3:27:51 PM(UTC)
GB49

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Be aware that the original fairing compound does not always get along with today's paint. Separation can and will occur. I found out the hard way.
I had inquired at a reputable paint place and the guy told me they use a wire wheel on a drill and grind out all the original bondo and redo everything with new.

Prep is the key to a good paint job. You can try to do it yourself in the boat yard but if you have the $$ to spend, shop around, talks to those with new paint jobs and see who does the best work.

Be sure to caulk all screws that go into the new paint job and wax the new paint job as soon as its cured and do it every year. The biggest fallacy is not having to wax Imron or whatever paint you choose. That is simply not true. It will oxidize and get cloudy. Some will say they have had new paint job for many years and it still looks good. That is true but you cant tell the difference when you see the paint degrade with each year. Take a picture of the new paint job and compare it years later. There will be a difference especially if you don't keep it conditioned.

This is just my observations after 8 years with an Imron paint job.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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The HedgeHog
#7 Posted : Tuesday, July 28, 2009 1:02:08 AM(UTC)
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GB49 wrote:
Be aware that the original fairing compound does not always get along with today's paint. Separation can and will occur. I found out the hard way.
I had inquired at a reputable paint place and the guy told me they use a wire wheel on a drill and grind out all the original bondo and redo everything with new.

Prep is the key to a good paint job. You can try to do it yourself in the boat yard but if you have the $$ to spend, shop around, talks to those with new paint jobs and see who does the best work.

Be sure to caulk all screws that go into the new paint job and wax the new paint job as soon as its cured and do it every year. The biggest fallacy is not having to wax Imron or whatever paint you choose. That is simply not true. It will oxidize and get cloudy. Some will say they have had new paint job for many years and it still looks good. That is true but you cant tell the difference when you see the paint degrade with each year. Take a picture of the new paint job and compare it years later. There will be a difference especially if you don't keep it conditioned.

This is just my observations after 8 years with an Imron paint job.

-Karl


Wow Karl,

It sounds like you dropped some coin on your paint job. Are you happy so far?
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yooper
#8 Posted : Tuesday, July 28, 2009 1:03:24 AM(UTC)
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I would not take the whole boat down to bare metal and dig out all the fairing. Be conservative at first. Applying the paint is the last and quickest step in the process. Getting good at de-waxing, de-greasing, sanding, masking and rigging temporary cover is essential if you are going to do any work yourself especially one panel at a time at your slip. I have a battery of power sanders and use them all. I give the most use to the Rigid 5" DA because I can hook it up to a mini shop vac and pull up every bit of dust. I suggest a paint you can brush, roll or roll and tip because you can do this at your slip. I sent my flybridge and side cowls out to be professionally sprayed in a clean paint booth. Spraying give the best finish but it is not required for decks that you walk on. Spraying also requires a lot of work covering tbe areas you don't want to overspray and you have to wear a mask. Speaking of masks, if you decide on a two part paint, you better have a good one those can be dangerous. I would use a good one part on the out of the water areas.
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jralbert
#9 Posted : Tuesday, July 28, 2009 3:27:45 AM(UTC)
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Repainted the boat 10 years ago with Awlgrip. First places the new paint lifted were areas that were heavily faired: the corners where the forward built in bow seat (flybridge sedan) meets the deck. It happened so soon after painting, I was able to get the area Awlgrip rep to come to the boat to see if there was a problem with the paint itself. His opinion: the solvent in the fairing was still escaping 11 years after it was applied at the factory and lifted the paint. Don't know whether to agree with his finding but Karl mentions it now so it's something to keep in mind. There must be a way to seal in the solvent with a prep coat.

One rule that is a must-follow: the etchant coat has to be applied within a few hours after sanding to bare metal or sand-blasting. And from what I observe on the boat today, I believe that a total sanding or sand blasting is unnecessary where the existing paint bond is firm.

My guess is that you are dealing with a boat where the factory paint is chalking. Many Marinettes had that problem. But a good sanding following by an epoxy paint will be good prep in areas where the paint now holds.

By the way, you can save money in the paint project if you remove the deck hardware yourself. And see Jeff's post on reattaching the rails for a great tip on how to stave off corrosion on the deck.

Good luck with your project, keep us updated
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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JimboD289
#10 Posted : Wednesday, July 29, 2009 3:20:02 AM(UTC)
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I painted the hull on my '69 this spring in the boatyard on asphalt. As long as you cover everything, stay away from other boats and sand, prime, sand, paint, sand and paint again..I recommend the roll and tip method. It's really pretty easy. Someone once told me that if you're looking to put it in a show or museum, that's one thing...if your looking to use it and enjoy it then save some dough and make it look the best you can.

JimboD289
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old32
#11 Posted : Wednesday, July 29, 2009 9:28:34 AM(UTC)
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i'm all for saving money may tackle mine in two or three years .will not be a show piece just would like it not to be an eye sour.i may need so of your roll and tip tricks.




tim
72 32' express
"http://www.theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat_Express_Cruiser_marinette_1972_anticipation"
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fastjeff
#12 Posted : Wednesday, July 29, 2009 10:48:38 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Look up tip and roll tricks on the Petit and other paint manufacturer's sites. There's a blurb on it. That said, it requires experimentation to determine the thinner used, cool weather (no sun!), and practice.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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dougrose
#13 Posted : Wednesday, July 29, 2009 12:56:54 PM(UTC)
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Roll and tip is great but often requires two working, one to roll and the other to tip. I find that Easypoxy will go on with just a fine foam roller. There will be bubbles - keep rolling until they are gone.

For awkward folk like me, an easy topsides paint is a must, because it is so easy to repair when I ruin it. And I don't care all that much when I drop something and it wacks the cabin side on its way over the rail, because a few minutes with paint and roller will have it looking like new. Not so easy with Awlgrip.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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