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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/11/2009
Posts: 21
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Location: Missouri
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I put my foot through the floor so I ripped all the old nautilex out of there. I am going to make new patterns out of poster board and then transfer that to 1/8'" aluminum. The bracing looks like it will be to far apart so I was thinking I will build a framework of 2" x 1/2" channel laid every foot left to right. In between the 1/2" channel I intend on placing 1/2" x1" flat aluminum directly over the existing 1" wide supports. I am thinking that once this framework is bolted in place (countersunk stainless screws and locknuts) below the 1/8" aluminum that should provide adequate support. Also was thinking that all the seams and edges will need to be over a support so I can add a sealer to keep the water out of the bilge. It's a 32 ft sedan cockpit floor so I figure 2 sheets of 5x8 will cover it.
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Please Register : New members may not post until approved. An email is sent after approval. We do this to reduce those who use these forums for spamming.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 9/11/2008
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Location: mebane,nc
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i'm doing mine with starboard.i wish i had used aluminum.its going to be slick and silicone will not stick to it very good.there is a nice aluminum job posted on this forum with nice hatches and drains.
tim
72 32' express
"http://www.theboaters.com/boats/Powerboat_Express_Cruiser_marinette_1972_anticipation"
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Rank: Member
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Location: Missouri
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I saw the one that used 1/4" in a express. He did a great job on that. Mine won't be as difficult as that one because I only have one hatch and less square footage. I plan on mounting the drains underneath and grinding out a small dish in the top like the guy did with the express. My hatch is still in good shape so I should be able to duplicate that in aluminum also. The starboard seemed like a good product also , I even spoke to a sales rep about it.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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It is very nice to be able to get the WHOLE sole up without tools, something that is fairly easy to engineer if you are replacing it. The prior owner of my boat put the cockpit sole in permanently, and if I ever see him again I am going to lsldin slowur slwmfl sliwls.
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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Rank: Member
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Location: Missouri
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I will have to remove some stainless countersunk screws and nuts but that goes fast enough with a ratchet. Also a screwdriver for the hose clamps. I'm glad you mentioned that. That's something I have to keep in mind.
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Location: Pensacola
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dougrose wrote:It is very nice to be able to get the WHOLE sole up without tools, something that is fairly easy to engineer if you are replacing it. The prior owner of my boat put the cockpit sole in permanently, and if I ever see him again I am going to lsldin slowur slwmfl sliwls. Mine is also welded. The sliding door track is also welded in.
Spearo
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/5/2007
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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Using 1/8 inch will not make the floor stiff enough without adding a whole bunch of cross beams.
You might consider this approach instead: Lay down 1/2 inch pressure treated plywood first and screw it in place with countersunk screws from ABOVE (the easy way). Then screw the aluminum down to it, also with countersunk screws from above.
You don't need to be fussy laying down the plywood, which simplifies things, but be sure that the wood and aluminum seems aren't near each other. I made the longitudinal aluminum seam go through the hatch opening, where the plywood seam was where it came from the factory.
I also made the cockpit hatch from aluminum, doubled it up with another sheet inside the hatch opening. Even still, it's bit too flexible.
Jeff
PS: Got some photos of the finished deck if you're interested.
"There is another class of coloured people who make a business of keeping the troubles, the wrongs, and the hardships of the Negro race before the public. Having learned that they are able to make a living out of their troubles, they have grown into the settled habit of advertising their wrongs -- partly because they want sympathy and partly because it pays. Some of these people do not want the Negro to lose his grievances, because they do not want to lose their jobs." Booker T. Washington
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
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My little pea sized brain seems to remember that pressure treated lumber and aluminum may be a big no no.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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Correct! And my even smaller, half a pea-sized brain omitted an important point: Lay double strips of duct tape on the aluminum frames before putting the plywood down.
I did this 4 years ago when I replaced the bilge floor on mine. So far no problem at all.
Jeff
"There is another class of coloured people who make a business of keeping the troubles, the wrongs, and the hardships of the Negro race before the public. Having learned that they are able to make a living out of their troubles, they have grown into the settled habit of advertising their wrongs -- partly because they want sympathy and partly because it pays. Some of these people do not want the Negro to lose his grievances, because they do not want to lose their jobs." Booker T. Washington
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 4/9/2009
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Location: Vermilion, Ohio
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I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my cockpit floor as well. It's actually not bad structurally. Still very strong, but the moroon that owned the boat before me, put carpet down with GLUE over the nautolex and....cut the carpet to size on the nautolex!!!! Needless to say.. looks like crap. I've read a lot of ideas on here and been researching alternatives. I thought about the aluminum, as I work as a sheetmetal worker and have access to a metal working shop. I realize that the aluminum would need to be relatively thick and need to be painted. Could anyone tell me approx. cost of doing this. I have a 39' sedan with approx. 80 sq.ft. of cockpit. I know the aluminum isnt cheap as I ordered some to replace the side cockpit panels. My uncle replaced the floor on his 32' sedan with composite decking 5/4 board, but went through a lot of work nothching the board because of the additional height. I wasn't real impressed with the finished product. Thought about composite trim boards...they arent as thick...3/4in. which is close to the 5/8 plywood down now. I realize it would need more support framing, and am concerened about expansion. Would love to do plasteek but.....$45.00 a square foot!!!! Settled on two ideas. (1) PVC outdoor trim boards. Comes in various widths and does not rot. Again, comes in 3/4in. but would need considerable support bracing. Then came upon this. (2) FSI Home Products Lock Dry aluminum decking. www.lockdry.com. They sent me some literature. Pricing is $3.99 per linear foot. Minimum 12'-30'. Would get 16' lengths as I need maximum 8',s. Two per board. For my cockpit around $650.00 in material. It is interlocking, screwed from above, and water tight. Definitely needs no extra support, and is 1" tall. I guess I would have to shorten the ladder and put a trim piece in to transfer to the lower floor of the cabin. Hopefully the extra 3/8 height wouldnt be a tripping hazard. Also comes powder coated in 4 colors. Wonder if anyones seen this.
'84, 39' Sedan Boat Name:On Island Time Home Port: West Harbor, Catawba '91, 23' Rinker Boat Name: Weekend Sanity
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/5/2007
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Location: New Tripoli, PA
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You can get away with 1/8 " aluminum if you replace the plywood below it with new stuff. Don't have to be fussy installing it--just screw the new plywood to the aluminum frames from above with flathead sheet metal screws--then do the same for the aluminum, also from above. (No way I was gonna crawl around under there!) You can paint over the aluminum, of slap rugs or ?? on top.
Jeff
"There is another class of coloured people who make a business of keeping the troubles, the wrongs, and the hardships of the Negro race before the public. Having learned that they are able to make a living out of their troubles, they have grown into the settled habit of advertising their wrongs -- partly because they want sympathy and partly because it pays. Some of these people do not want the Negro to lose his grievances, because they do not want to lose their jobs." Booker T. Washington
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Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
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Joined: 3/5/2008
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Location: Ketchikan, Alaska
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I have 3/16" aluminum on top of the framing with no paint. Very stout. I was going to put anti-skid on it, but don't need it. I think you could get by with 1/8" on the framing just fine. Just use lots of screws to hold it down and that will make it rigid.--Ed
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 12/7/2007
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Points: 711
Location: Alpena, Michigan
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3/16" aluminum is what you need for decking. I used diamond plate in the cockpit as mine is a working boat, although I did use Timber Tek t&g on the weather deck. I laid down white silicone caulk in the grooves to make it watertight.
"When THE PEOPLE fear their Goverment, there is tyranny.
When the Goverment fears THE PEOPLE, there is liberty." Thomas Jefferson
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/20/2007
Posts: 38
Points: 114
Location: Lake Anna Virginia
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We did ours with 1/4" aluminum supported by aluminum I beams. Turned out perfect. Used heavy duty P&J hatches. Used starboard for the interior but it is hard to find caulks that will stick..Boatlike life makes a product (maybe lifeseal or their silicone blend, cant remember which). Would not have done this any other way.
Bob
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 8/10/2009
Posts: 248
Points: -3,554
Location: Madison In.
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metalmanbret wrote:I'm tossing around the idea of replacing my cockpit floor as well. It's actually not bad structurally. Still very strong, but the moroon that owned the boat before me, put carpet down with GLUE over the nautolex and....cut the carpet to size on the nautolex!!!! Needless to say.. looks like crap. I've read a lot of ideas on here and been researching alternatives. I thought about the aluminum, as I work as a sheetmetal worker and have access to a metal working shop. I realize that the aluminum would need to be relatively thick and need to be painted. Could anyone tell me approx. cost of doing this. I have a 39' sedan with approx. 80 sq.ft. of cockpit. I know the aluminum isnt cheap as I ordered some to replace the side cockpit panels. My uncle replaced the floor on his 32' sedan with composite decking 5/4 board, but went through a lot of work nothching the board because of the additional height. I wasn't real impressed with the finished product. Thought about composite trim boards...they arent as thick...3/4in. which is close to the 5/8 plywood down now. I realize it would need more support framing, and am concerened about expansion. Would love to do plasteek but.....$45.00 a square foot!!!! Settled on two ideas. (1) PVC outdoor trim boards. Comes in various widths and does not rot. Again, comes in 3/4in. but would need considerable support bracing. Then came upon this. (2) FSI Home Products Lock Dry aluminum decking. www.lockdry.com. They sent me some literature. Pricing is $3.99 per linear foot. Minimum 12'-30'. Would get 16' lengths as I need maximum 8',s. Two per board. For my cockpit around $650.00 in material. It is interlocking, screwed from above, and water tight. Definitely needs no extra support, and is 1" tall. I guess I would have to shorten the ladder and put a trim piece in to transfer to the lower floor of the cabin. Hopefully the extra 3/8 height wouldnt be a tripping hazard. Also comes powder coated in 4 colors. Wonder if anyones seen this. Hey, I am doing the cockpit in a 84 39' sedan also !!! I wonder how many 39' sedans they built ?? I have read everything printed I believe and I will be taking a different approach than usually ever mentioned !!! I am planning to use Nautelex over 5/8" marine grade plywood !!! like the factory, I think I am the only one. Any way It is still great other than my hatch and 30 downrigger and fighting chair mounting holes. My boat lives under roof so it will last beyond my life expectancey, be 100% original looking and cost peanuts. I really believe it is the right way to go, espescially for me.
466 Bertram FDMY, " Easy Rider " Docked at Pier 99 in Warsaw Ky. 39 Marinette sedan " Forever 39" Docked at Pier 99 in Warsaw Ky. 2008 Sea Doo 150 Speedster... For sale.
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Doug, I'm with you. It seems the easiest & most economical way to go. Everyone is talking about improving but think about it the newest of these boats is 20 years. Unless it was neglected 20 +yrs for a wood deck is pretty dare good!
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
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Joined: 8/10/2009
Posts: 248
Points: -3,554
Location: Madison In.
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The "LOCKDRY" flooring that metalmanbret posted looks like an awsome product and I would consider it if not for the 1" -vs- 5/8" issue. On the other hand I am an originalist with my boats and cars and nothing but nautalex would look right to me anyway. If I docked out from under roof I would think about it a little harder.
466 Bertram FDMY, " Easy Rider " Docked at Pier 99 in Warsaw Ky.
39 Marinette sedan " Forever 39" Docked at Pier 99 in Warsaw Ky.
2008 Sea Doo 150 Speedster... For sale.
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Rank: Member
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Location: Vermilion, Ohio
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O.K. I know it's been a little while since I wrote about the lock dry system. I have really researched and wrestled with what to use. I think I finally settled on timbertechs composite decking. They make a teak looking deck with a concealed screw system. I'm going to use the old plywood floor as a template. I also thought of using some foam/rubber round rodding to seal the seams. The boards already come grooved for the clips that hold the boards down. I was a little concerned with expansion with water, but I have canvas that covers the cockpit, so I don't think it will see too much water??? I'm hoping it will look sharp.
'84, 39' Sedan
Boat Name:On Island Time
Home Port: West Harbor, Catawba
'91, 23' Rinker
Boat Name: Weekend Sanity
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Rank: Dedicated Tin Star
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Joined: 12/16/2007
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Location: knoxville,tn
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I would be more concerned w/ expansion from heat and cold. I just built a dock for a customer and used timbertech, first it is one of the heaviest composite decking materials, second it contracts and expands as much as regular wood, I can take pics of the expansion if you would like. Try looking at TAMKO decking not as realistic but considerably lighter and basically no expansion or contraction, used it on my dock.
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