My 1978 Sedan Bridge 37 is in dire need of paint from the rub rail up, especially the decks. The previous owner used Imron [for the color] and Awlgrip for the white , I think. Could be the reverse, I am not totally certain. Anyhow, the white paint is worn through in spots, cracked in many other places, cracked-loosened-gone-in other places and corroded around many rail plates and cleats. I have had my boatyard quote me a repaint price, a real thorough job, but the price, while probably more than fair at $ 16K, is way more than reasonable to put into this 30 year old queen. I have read many posts regarding repainting and now am totally confused. I will either use a Petit finish paint or Interlux. I plan on visiting their websites for info on prep work and compatible undercoats and fairing materials, but am looking for guidance from anyone who has had the "pleasure" of removing the brightwork, prepping the old surface, priming and finishing. It is likley the work will need to be done outside, as my inside storage spot is pretty dusty. I may have to repaint this fall or next summer while in the slip at the marina. I painted the transom 2 years ago after a "pro" had totally messed the job up. I used Interlux's 2 part system and rolled andd tipped it and it came out pretty nice. Some brush marks show, so maybe I should not have tippped or I waited too long to tip. Anyway, suggestions are welcome!

ScubaJ, was 16 K for entire boat paint job, or just the rub rail up???

Not at Harbour Town-upriver at White Oak

Price was for rub rail up including flybridge, included removing all hardware, repainting stripes and maroon trim and rails, removing windows and resetting and recaulking, new screws everywhere, new gaskets, hardware back on. It was a real good price , I think, considering the scope of the work, just way more than the boat value will support. Or maybe way more than I want to invest at this point in time!

..."I painted the transom 2 years ago after a "pro" had totally messed the job up. I used Interlux's 2 part system and rolled andd tipped it and it came out pretty nice. Some brush marks show, so maybe I should not have tippped or I waited too long to tip."

I meant there. That said, you can brush on the paint best as you can, then rework it as I described above. Other than sanding effort required, the end result will be the same.

Jeff

If you try to paint at the marina you will run into some of the same problems I have trying to paint outside. I taped my Rigid electric DA sander up to a mini-shop vac. That took care of all the dust but that rig is very loud. I went over my badly cracked and pitted paint once with 80 grit and twice with 120 grit. You have to degrease and de-wax the boat first or the sanding will just drive the wax right into the substrate. I tried MEK and Toluene but I damn near gagged. Also the Toluene melted some of the old paint. Still looking for a non-toxic de-waxer. I tried to leave the original brown primer layer where I could. Where I went through the primer I immediatey put on etching primer. I used Interlux waterproof filler to replace some deep cracks in the filler. My dang one part paint lifted right off of it. I had better luck with polyester finishing putty available from auto parts shops. My system did not include a high build primer and could not be rolled and tipped. I will make sure that on my other project boat I will remedy both of these drawbacks. I sent the flybridge and side cowls off to an autopainter to be done in a booth. He didn't like using my paint system but he got great results especially with the blue trim bands.

Now I understand. I might try that idea somewhere else on the boat, since the transom has decals on it that I do not wnat to do over! Thanks for the avice!