Rat:

That 'idiot panel' has confused more than just you and I! Over the years I've removed and relocated much of the stuff on there--not that I can answer your question (which side goes where? It'd take an Einstein to figure that mess out.)

The other problemS (plural) with that panel is that, when climbing in and out of the bilge, it's very easy to brush against a switch, flipping it the wrong way (or snapping off the handle. Don't ask!) I screwed a 2 x 2 just above the panel after...ah-hem...to keep from doing that again. And we're talking serious stuff here: Bilge pumps switches, for example.

While on that subject, you'll note that there are way too many switches involved in running the bilge pumps. Let one of them be off at the wrong time and... Not good. I eliminated both forward and aft bilge pump switches from the idiot panel (by butt connecting the wires at each switch). All Marinette owners should do this! You still have the overhead breaker to protect your circuit.

Have fun!

Jeff

Go to Doug Rose web page, he has a great set of prints that will be very helpful.

Roger

Quick answers:

1- Does both Port and Starboard accessory switches go to power the same panel?

On my boat the accessory panel is divided into two sides for power purposes, with the port 9 switches powered by "Accessory 1" and the other 9 switches by "Accessory 2", as shown in the schematics of MY boat. The generic schematic is different, and may not match your boat (or any other as far as I know).

2- If the switches do not go to the power the same panel, what does port and starboard usually power?

Depends on your boat. It is probably like mine.

3- What is a good replacement switch? Maybe a higher quality and higher current rating?

The stock switches are 20 Amp WOOD ELECTRIC model 7649 112-220-101 which are no longer made, and are unreliable around salt water anyway. They were made for aircraft. The toggle version is very hard to find, the pushbutton versions are sold at DFW Airparts.

I use MS39019/01-257 breakers, which are sealed space-qualified units. I have a couple of buckets full, but few in 20 A. They are around $130 each at Newark.

They have cheaper SnaPak ones, also at Newark.com, their Newark Part Number: 90C0671. They have a 1/2" thread and a plastic toggle (in six colors!), along with 1/4" blades for push-on connectors. Price is around $15. Note that the push-ons are limited to AWG 14 wire, usually. The ABYC allows 35 A in 14 wire.

Consider buying a new panel with modern breakers.

I bought the diodes that I used at Skycraft Surplus in Orlando. They have a lot of stuff on their website but these 120-amp units w/ isolated mounting were in a bucket in a corner. They are designed for large arrays, and have two diodes inside each three-terminal package, as shown. I mounted 6 of them to a heatsink in the engine compartment, at a total cost of around $50 or so.

I was very proud of this setup, but since then battery combiners have come on the market, such as http://store.hamiltonmar...m/browse.cfm/4,6007.htm and http://store.hamiltonmar.../browse.cfm/4,10165.htm and I think they are better.

I make use of the voltage drop in my isolator to reduce the charging voltage for the sealed batteries so I don't have to get new alternators - this man changeth not what Perkins hath wrought. But the correct regulator would make more sense, and then the much simpler combiner circuit would work.

I haven't decided whether it is worth making my own combiners, or just (Gasp! Help me, Jeff) buying two for the boat. Either way the benefit is a much simpler circuit: http://www.geocities.com...ring_with_combiners.pdf

I wanted to add an update.

I replaced the breakers on my 12V engine panel. Replaced the paralleling relay with a automatic charging relay.

The charging relay in automatic mode connects at around 13.6V and disconnects 12.6V.

The relay can be manually closed or turned off. It also only used .2A to hold connection.
http://bluesea.com/categ...roductline/overview/389

Note: not all the wiring is complete

???? Dont understand what you mean?

It is connected before the main battery switch. The relay will combine battery banks. It should not disconect or connect an alternator from a battery.

Another question, the 30A starbord or port pannel main, is it hooked up the main switch or direct to the battery feed.

I connected the bilge directly to the battery thru a push to reset breaker.

Thanks, I understand now.

The only way an alternator would be disconnected form a battery is if someone would turn off teh Perko switch or my main alternator breaker blows.
See diagram in the following
http://bluesea.com/files...s/instructions/6693.pdf

One consern that I had is when the battery banks are combined having both alternator output fed in. After reading some mfg informaion it should not be a problem.

Very nice, this is just what I was talking about, the Blue Sea unit may be a bit more expensive than Hamilton Marine's. Just what I need, maybe next season.

I assume that those battery switches are explosion-proof, if not they should not be in the engine space.