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Okay this is weird, but I gotta ask
Capt T
#1 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 12:45:54 AM(UTC)
Capt T

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Think While sanding the deck I have come across many spots that appear to have been bondoed (how ever you spell it. What in the world was this done for? It appears to be the factory paint just by the condition of it. the deck does not appear to have dimples or low spots. I am stumped. Also whom ever put it down did a suckky job as it comes back off in big chunks and continue to gum up my sander d'oh!.

Last question, after taking the bow rail off I watched the water pour outta the stanchions, rubber pads are NOT going back down. I saw in the past where someone used plastic washers in place of the ruuber pads. How thick do those needs to be? Can I use the standard Nylon washers found at the hardware store, are they strong enuff. I will add, that I was pleasantly surprised at the overall condition of the deck. No serious rot or holes anywhere.

Okay one last thing, I should know better but call me a glutton for punishment. Rustoleum has come out with a primer specially designed for Aluminum. After I Zinch cromate the deck I am going to give this stuff a shot. Did test on peice of Alminum and left it by the dock for a month and it looks fine ( complete, Zinch cromate, Rustoleum Primer, followed by Interlux topside White). Plus it is a lot cheaper than marine primer ( about half the cost). Any body ever try this stuff?Whistle
1978 Aft Cabin
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Fox Road Marina

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Barkleydave
#2 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 1:01:24 AM(UTC)
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1. Trowel Cement or fairing compound (same stuff) was used to fair the hull, deck, cabin, etc. Your big M is welded and the compound was used.

Fairing is also used extensively in the auto body and custom paint. Even factory vehicles will have some fairing compound. This is not bondo used to fill rust spots which is not considered acceptable in professional auto repair.

2. IMO. if you are going to spend the time and money to paint avoid mixing products. Rustoleom may be a great product but most likely; is NOT compatible with Interlux products. 90 percent of the effort and success is in the prep and prime. Primer is not the place to attempt to save money.. you will pay much more trying to correct a possible mistake.

3. Stanchions: Some have used nylon spacers to allow water to drain from stanchion bases. The downside' if there is one is you add load to the fastners which could fail. Draining can help but properly prepared surface and also beding the stantion will go a long ways. The problem is worse as is all corrosion if you boat in brakish or salt water. Sealing the fastern where it penitrates the deck will help prevent corrsion.

safe boating,

dave

None
fastjeff
#3 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 3:57:49 AM(UTC)
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Gotta relate a story: Guy at my old marina bought a 91 Burgher that was in a fire. On the side, partially burnt away, was a HALF INCH of epoxy fairing compound! I was stunned, but that's what aluminum boat builders have to do to get everything straight after the welder is done warping things.

I use custom made 1/8 inch thick washers cut from old Pontiac Fiero body panels. The hardware store nylon washers are a bit too thin (unless you double them up). The water MUST flow below the railing post or corrosion can occur. I used # 8-32 rivet nuts instead of those useless screws and the railings haven't moved in 4 years.

Jeff
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yooper
#4 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 7:05:00 AM(UTC)
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I used a epoxy based west marine watertite filler for some areas and the dang topcoat flaked off. You have to sand off the analine blush I guess. It also shunk too much. I had real good luck with a polyester based finishing putty from an auto parts store. It comes in kind of a big squeeze bottle. Expensive but worth it. I drys fast and will fill shallow areas and rough paint. When I sanded I just tried to take off rotten original paint but I tried to stay above the brown undercoat areas. I resand an spot prime bare spots right away. What ever you pick it has to be compatable with your top coat.
DiverDennis
#5 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 10:01:41 AM(UTC)
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Capt T wrote:
...I saw in the past where someone used plastic washers in place of the ruuber pads. How thick do those needs to be? Can I use the standard Nylon washers found at the hardware store, are they strong enuff....

You can get some 1/4" NYLON WASHERS 1/4" x 1/2" .125" THICK spacers on eBay.

Have you read this? http://www.marinetteboat...amings-and-gunnels.aspx
The fairing and paint on SI was pretty bad so I used an air chistle to take it off. Fun, fun, fun...
DiverDennis attached the following image(s):
DiverDennis attached the following image(s): rail base spacers.jpg
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Capt T
#6 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 10:30:29 AM(UTC)
Capt T

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Thanks for the great info Guy's. I have two more questions. On the stern on top of the gunnels, Marinnette rapped that toe rail around the corners and it collects all the water there. can I cut a channel in the toe rail to allow the water to run overboard without damageing anything? Question 2. I have 2 cleats on the sides with no access to the nuts on the bottom, any ideas without having to cut holes in the bulkheads? I've been all over the bilge looking foe access to them with no luck.] . incase your wondering it is a 1978 37' aft cabin.(*,) Thanks
1978 Aft Cabin
Twin Chrysler 440's
Fox Road Marina

My Father once told me "if you ever need a helping hand, just look to the end of your arm!"
fastjeff
#7 Posted : Friday, October 30, 2009 10:41:32 PM(UTC)
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I'd be leery of cutting into the aluminum there--might do more damage than what you prevent.

On the cleats, I had to leaver the ugliness alone on mine as well. The alternative is ripping out all kinds of paneling in the cabinet to get at them.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Capt T
#8 Posted : Saturday, October 31, 2009 1:00:45 AM(UTC)
Capt T

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Thanks Jeff I was wondering if that toe rail was solid or hollow. I can almost stock those stern corners with minnows the pits are so deep. I wish they had come up with a way to drain that catch basin. Since I can get to them behund the berths in aft cabin I am also thinkin about troughhull scuppers, maybe place on the deck and run drain hose uot beside the swim platform. If I go this rout I'll let you know and post some pix.

Dennis: how would I look those up on ebay? Thanks
1978 Aft Cabin
Twin Chrysler 440's
Fox Road Marina

My Father once told me "if you ever need a helping hand, just look to the end of your arm!"
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