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How was my water hooked up?
HuckFinn
#1 Posted : Friday, November 20, 2009 3:26:52 AM(UTC)
HuckFinn

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First off the sinks are not hooked up so I don't know how this was originally set up. There is a pipe cap on a raw water inlet in the engine compartment. If i stick my head in the V birth and look toward the stern there is a power outlet facing me. There is a seperate electric line for the bilge in the V birth so it isn't for that. The outlet is further back. It looks like I could build a shelf for a fresh water tank and pump and have power for the pump and still have room to access bilge and plug. This is a 26' BigM. Does anybody know what might have been there originally?. Were the sinks in the head and galley hooked to a raw water inlet? It be nice to have cleaner water than the river water. Also the fridge is gone and it's got a door there now. Thanks.
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express

Chrysler 318's
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rockit
#2 Posted : Friday, November 20, 2009 5:11:35 PM(UTC)
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Do you have a water fill plate on the deck someplace? On my 28' it's on the foredeck and the water tank is under the v-berth. The pump sits on a shelf just aft of the tank. The plumbing goes through the bilge to the galley and head.

It would be a bad idea to hook the sinks to a raw water inlet for a variety of reasons--there is a similar pipe on my 28 and I assume it was for the generator. My uncle's 1970 28' had twins and a generator.

Good luck.

Joe
Joe
1977 28' Express
Twin 318s, raw water cooled
Ohio River
HuckFinn
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 21, 2009 1:36:01 AM(UTC)
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Joe,
I'll look for a water fill plate or see if it was removed and filled over. Thanks for the much appreciated information, that confirms the spot for the tank and pump.
Huck
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express

Chrysler 318's
Docsnow
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 21, 2009 7:13:34 AM(UTC)
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HuckFinn,

Here’s a diagram of what a typical fresh water system might look like Think

Norm,

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dougrose
#5 Posted : Saturday, November 21, 2009 12:43:40 PM(UTC)
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Just be warned: I bought a boat cheap once that had been sunk because the "municipal" water inlet failed and filled the boat with water. You can avoid this by disconnecting it when not on board - if you remember.

RV outlets have tube and fittings suitable for boats, you might try there for the parts.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
steveintn
#6 Posted : Sunday, November 22, 2009 12:02:06 AM(UTC)
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the basic layout on my 1989 28 ft express
- inlet port side of boat about half way up up the boat
- water storage tank, under rear dinette seat
- pump on floor of storage closet next to dinette seat

by the way,
if you start to rebuild your water system, go with a new design pump. my water pressure pump was a motor and fan belt driven model. It was loud. I replaced it with a new self contained unit. It is GREAT. quicker and quieter.

Good luck - steve
steveintn

1989
28ft Express
w - Twin 318's
HuckFinn
#7 Posted : Sunday, November 22, 2009 11:04:55 PM(UTC)
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I was planning to undo the tarp and look around inside this weekend and report back but didn't make it.
Thanks for the tips on the pump, municipal failing and diagram.
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express

Chrysler 318's
jimski2
#8 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 1:34:48 AM(UTC)
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The "chlorine sanitizer" from your municipal water supply dissapates after about an hour of depressurizarion. So drink bottled water or boil your drinking water for ten minutes to be safe. Critters will grow fast in your water and you will think you are in Mexico.
RV stores sell pressure reducing valves that will save your plumbing and your boat. They hook onto your hose. Being on the waterfront, you will have the hishest pressure in your municipal water system. At about 5:00AM, with the lowest water consumption and the water tanks filled up, I have seen pressures up to 140 PSI. More than enough to blow your plumbing and water tank apart.
dougrose
#9 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 3:33:17 AM(UTC)
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Most liveaboards in my marina use the pressure reducing valve to get direct water pressure from the dock, just as jimski2 says. This is very convenient, but if a hose comes unglued when you are not aboard, a lot of water goes into the bilge - enough to sink the boat if the bilge pump can't keep up. Best to turn it off at the dock when leaving.

You will also need a check valve to prevent water from going backwards through your onboard pressure pump and into the water tank.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#10 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 6:55:14 AM(UTC)
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Doug speaks the truth! A 36 foot Carber sunk at our slip this year do to leaving the hose hooked up.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

HuckFinn
#11 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 11:26:01 AM(UTC)
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I'll make that a habit if/when I get fresh water, like shutting the valve on the raw water intake off when docked.
BTW Fastjeff, great site you have with the BigM help. Applause Read thru most of it and bookmarked it. Thanks!
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express

Chrysler 318's
fastjeff
#12 Posted : Monday, November 23, 2009 11:22:06 PM(UTC)
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Thanks. It's about time I updated it.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

mark klusman
#13 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 1:12:17 AM(UTC)
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HuckFinn, What year is your Marinette? Joe's uncles 1970 is close to mine; 1972 28ft. express. freshwater tank up front in v-berth with pump mounted just aft . The original fill for the tank is still old school; port side, bow. Do i read you right that you have only raw water in your system ? No freshwater tank ? At this time I'm redoing the head and installing a small refrig. since as most know, these oldies came with an icebox. Got things torn apart a little bit. If you want some pic's I'll will be more than glad to post or e-mail .

T.N.X. Mark
Trash66
No matter where you go,there you are.
Knot Normal
28FT. Express
Twin 318's
Ten Mile Tn.




HuckFinn
#14 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 3:07:57 AM(UTC)
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Mark,
It's a 1966 and there's an electric outlet near the aft in the V birth, nothing else. There's a thru hull raw water pipe next to the engine but it's capped off. Mine also doesn't have a fridge anymore, there's a cabnet door there. So I'd like to see how your project goes. Pics would be helpful if you get the chance. I'll check the port side for evidence of a water fill.
Thanks,
Huck
PT-73
1973 32' FB Express

Chrysler 318's
mark klusman
#15 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 4:05:12 AM(UTC)
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Huck ,
I'm going up today to get my therapy , to bang my head and knockles. Be happy to take some pics. The more info. you can get, the easer it is to work on them ; and there's alot of know how with members of this fourm !

T.N.X. Mark
Trash66
mark klusman attached the following image(s):
mark klusman attached the following image(s): Picture 019.jpg
mark klusman attached the following image(s): Picture 023.jpg
No matter where you go,there you are.
Knot Normal
28FT. Express
Twin 318's
Ten Mile Tn.




mark klusman
#16 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 8:26:39 AM(UTC)
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Huck;
As far as fresh water systems go ,their pretty straight foward , tank, fill line, line out to punp, out of pump to sinks... cold to cold, cold to hot water heater ( If you have one ) other than that no need to worry about hot return to sinks. sink waste to through hull filling or if you have one, taste tank to be pumped. Not sure what your saying about the though hull stand pipe in the engine compartment ,but i think it's were the sea cock for your engine coolent ( raw water ) . Check to be sure that there is a sea cock or valve on this through pipe before you put her in the water! If twin engine ; one each side. I hope the pics show a little bit that will help you. Any questions please ask, someone will help. I live in a third world county ,dialup only. T.N.X. Mark Trash66
No matter where you go,there you are.
Knot Normal
28FT. Express
Twin 318's
Ten Mile Tn.




jralbert
#17 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 8:35:41 AM(UTC)
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Not sure I understand all the pix. But one of them stands out for me. That is the third from the end showing apparent raw water intake directly feeding raw water pump. I would prefer to have a strainer in that line to keep out the whatgies and other bad stuff.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
mark klusman
#18 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 12:04:32 PM(UTC)
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jralbert,
Thanks for the heads up on the strainers to the water pumps. Your are not the only one to inform me on (no filters to the pumps). Bought this project Marinette back in March and have spent most of the time on electrical and the engines. I'll heed your words and make them my next project after the head & refrig. Do need to keep my beer cold.

T.N.X. Mark
Trash66
No matter where you go,there you are.
Knot Normal
28FT. Express
Twin 318's
Ten Mile Tn.




fastjeff
#19 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 10:48:23 PM(UTC)
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As Steve suggested, do yourself a HUGE favor and get rid of that noisy, useless belt driven water system pump! I followed ?? someone's advise and trashed mine years ago. One of the best things I did on the boat. Also, adding an accumulator, if none is there, is another good idea--it dramatically reduces the constant cycling.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#20 Posted : Tuesday, November 24, 2009 11:14:38 PM(UTC)
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I replaced the belt-driven pump on my 32' with a Jabsco unit that does not require an accumulator, and it is very nice.

However, I left the water pressure switch on when leaving the boat for a couple of months, and the water ran out and the pump tried to pump air until the motor failed. It says it can "run dry", and it can as far as the pump part is concerned, but it will spin like crazy with no load, and that's the end of the motor.

I machined the commutator and replaced the brushes and springs, but it wasn't easy. I couldn't find replacement brushes, so I machined down some larger ones that I had around. All in all, it took a whole day. And it took a lathe and a milling machine, stuff most folks don't have.

Since there is an electronics module in the pump anyway, one would think that Jabsco would put in some sort of shutoff, but they don't. I am making a shutoff from a relay, delay timer, and pressure switch that should take care of it. Meanwhile, "shut off water pressure" is on my "De-commission Checklist".


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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