Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/7/2007
Posts: 916
Points: 1,087
Location: Central Florida and the DC area
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I replaced the belt-driven pump on my 32' with a Jabsco unit that does not require an accumulator, and it is very nice.
However, I left the water pressure switch on when leaving the boat for a couple of months, and the water ran out and the pump tried to pump air until the motor failed. It says it can "run dry", and it can as far as the pump part is concerned, but it will spin like crazy with no load, and that's the end of the motor.
I machined the commutator and replaced the brushes and springs, but it wasn't easy. I couldn't find replacement brushes, so I machined down some larger ones that I had around. All in all, it took a whole day. And it took a lathe and a milling machine, stuff most folks don't have.
Since there is an electronics module in the pump anyway, one would think that Jabsco would put in some sort of shutoff, but they don't. I am making a shutoff from a relay, delay timer, and pressure switch that should take care of it. Meanwhile, "shut off water pressure" is on my "De-commission Checklist".
"Anyone who has ever chanted "drill, baby, drill" please report to the bayou for cleanup duty..."
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Rank: Upper Crust Bronze Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 10/19/2009
Posts: 123
Points: -10
Location: Watts Bar Lake , Ten Mile TN.
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Jeff,
I know what you mean about the noise from that old rag of a belt driven pump ; thump thump thump!! Will try to get to it this winter as long as the cash flow holds out. She a fair little Marinette ; concidering she had about a foot of water in the v-berth at one time. Aways something to fix, but use the fool out of her. Thanks for the info. on adding an accumulator tank, sounds like a nuclear plant.
T.N.X. Mark
Trash66
No matter where you go; there you are .
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 9/22/2009
Posts: 46
Points: 141
Location: Cincinnati
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Got under the tarp and worked on the boat this weekend, weather was nice... found the water fill not quite half way up on port side. Overfill drain also. Here's a shot looking under floor, the white hose is connected to the filler neck and the small black hose on left to the overfill.  here's the raw water capped off...   Can't find any signs of where the water tank was...under the dinette or right next to the motor where the hoses are. There is no municiple hookup. If I didn't find a water fill I was going to add a T valve to fill the tank from the municiple hook up instead of using a check valve.
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Rank: Top Rank Aluminum Star
Groups: Member
Joined: 12/10/2007
Posts: 415
Points: 1,002
Location: Lake Michigan
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Huck:
That intake might have been used by a generator or the original motor.
That motor looks a lot newer than 1966.
That cap on your raw water intake looks like a galvanized iron pipe and cap.
These should be replaced with either bronze, stainless or marelon clamshell
strainer and seacock leading to a strainer then the raw water pump for the engine.
I would use marelon for its low cost and ease of use but if you use stainless
or bronze, make sure to isolate it from the aluminum hull.
I see from your last pics that there is a san juan strainer and intake hose
so if this intake is not needed you should replace the iron pipe with a stainless plug
wrapped with some teflon tape.
Peter
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Rank: Advanced Member
Groups: Member
Joined: 9/22/2009
Posts: 46
Points: 141
Location: Cincinnati
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Peter Yes it was repowered in 84 I think. Looks like where Mark's intake is on his  . Thanks for the heads up on that stopper.
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