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NightMoves
#1 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:10:43 AM(UTC)
NightMoves

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Who has their bottom painted and ready to go. I still have to scrape sand spot prime paint and replace the anodes. Last time when I moved the blocks to get at the spots under the blocks she shifted and crushed the blocks and stand then fell to the ground, luckly a friend stopped by and we were talking or I would have been under her and crushed. BE CAREFULL UNDER BOAT all that happened was the paint got scratched up

Mike
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RCPRATHER
#2 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 12:34:50 AM(UTC)
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Mike,
I have not started on the bottom as of yet,but soon. I replaced all my rear decking yesterday with marine plywood. Where are you getting your Anodes?
Rob
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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Docsnow
#3 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 1:08:54 AM(UTC)
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Rob,

You may want to try this place www.boatzincs.com/marinette-bar.html PH# 1-866-439-9364
Anywho that’s the cheapest I could find them Whistle

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
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Docsnow
#4 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 1:12:43 AM(UTC)
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Mike,

Lucky U

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause

In this case so did MIKE Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
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RCPRATHER
#5 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 1:41:08 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Norm!
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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jsimanella
#6 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 5:15:45 PM(UTC)
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Ditto. I just ordered a set ;)
--
1987 32 Sedan Bridge
Twin 360s, Rebuilt 2006
Modified/Original Electronic Ignition
Raw Water Cooled
Catawba Island, Ohio
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RCPRATHER
#7 Posted : Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:40:58 PM(UTC)
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Guy's
I have a question, I have old Anodes all along the keel, do I need that much? it looks from the chart I only need two 36" I would assume you can't have two much? I was going to order two 72".
Thanks,
Rob
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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fastjeff
#8 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 12:01:25 AM(UTC)
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Y'all need 6 feet (total) on the keel, a foot or so on each trim tab, and what's left over goes on each rudder (twins). If you boat PURELY in fresh water, though, I strongly recommend adding a block of magnesium to the trim tab (above and out of the way).

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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RCPRATHER
#9 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 12:34:51 AM(UTC)
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Jeff,
Fresh water, I think? Ha Ha "Ohio River" Why on earth would they be on the length of the Keel? you think to PO just was lazy or just left them on thinking the more the better?
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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jralbert
#10 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 3:39:57 AM(UTC)
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Actually, you can "over zinc". I cannot remember the exact consequences if you put on a lot more than recommended, but it's something like reverse electrolysis. Use the recommended amount of zinc. A few inches more or less is not harmful but doubling isn't recommended.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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fastjeff
#11 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 5:32:37 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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The Joelmeister is correct: too much anode voltage leaches magnesium out of the welds--not good! Hence the recommended 0.9 to 1.2 volts range for Al (that's 9 to 12 on the CAPAC scale).

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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DiverDennis
#12 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 9:15:12 AM(UTC)
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NightMoves wrote:
....I still have to scrape, sand, spot prime, paint...
Ditto here. Last time was spring 2006. Got some wear spots where the hull meets the trailer bunks. d'oh!
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
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RCPRATHER
#13 Posted : Monday, March 22, 2010 11:21:50 AM(UTC)
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Thanks guys!
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
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BCassedy
#14 Posted : Monday, April 05, 2010 2:08:49 PM(UTC)
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Couple of questions...
1. The boat anodes Jeff recommends are listed as aluminum alloy for Marinettes. Being new to the aluminum community, I'm guessing these are preferable over a zinc 3' anodes?
2. One of the boats I was looking at had the anodes on the keel, rudder, and trim tab. The owner had also had placed anodes on the shaft as well. Is this something of overkill or a recommended item?

Thanks,
Bill C.
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
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dougrose
#15 Posted : Monday, April 05, 2010 11:43:11 PM(UTC)
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The shaft and prop should be electrically isolated from the hull. There is a nonconductive spacer at the transmission flange, and of course the shaft contacts only rubber at the strut. This "system" of shaft and prop together needs to be protected with zinc on the shaft. Do not put it just ahead of the strut, since the cutless bearing needs a flow of water for lubrication.

The rudders are the same - isolated electrically from the hull, and protected by their own zincs. The rudders turn in nonconductive bearings, and are electrically isolated from the boat where they connect to the steering.

Out of the water, you can check the isolation with an ohmmeter, being sure to touch bare metal with both probes. To do this, you might consider running a wire from a trim screw topside, since you should have no bare hull metal below the water line. In the water, you can short each shaft to the hull, and look for needle movement on the Capac meter. You should get some, I show a bit less than .1 out of the desired 0.9 to 1.0, others may have different results.

The shafts/props, rudders, and trim tabs I believe are best protected with zinc. The hull needs special protection of course. I keep my boat in saltwater in Florida, almost ten years and no corrosion damage that I can see....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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dougrose
#16 Posted : Monday, April 05, 2010 11:43:13 PM(UTC)
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The shaft and prop should be electrically isolated from the hull. There is a nonconductive spacer at the transmission flange, and of course the shaft contacts only rubber at the strut. This "system" of shaft and prop together needs to be protected with zinc on the shaft. Do not put it just ahead of the strut, since the cutless bearing needs a flow of water for lubrication.

The rudders are the same - isolated electrically from the hull, and protected by their own zincs. The rudders turn in nonconductive bearings, and are electrically isolated from the boat where they connect to the steering.

Out of the water, you can check the isolation with an ohmmeter, being sure to touch bare metal with both probes. To do this, you might consider running a wire from a trim screw topside, since you should have no bare hull metal below the water line. In the water, you can short each shaft to the hull, and look for needle movement on the Capac meter. You should get some, I show a bit less than .1 out of the desired 0.9 to 1.0, others may have different results.

The shafts/props, rudders, and trim tabs I believe are best protected with zinc. The hull needs special protection of course. I keep my boat in saltwater in Florida, almost ten years and no corrosion damage that I can see....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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dougrose
#17 Posted : Monday, April 05, 2010 11:43:15 PM(UTC)
dougrose

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The shaft and prop should be electrically isolated from the hull. There is a nonconductive spacer at the transmission flange, and of course the shaft contacts only rubber at the strut. This "system" of shaft and prop together needs to be protected with zinc on the shaft. Do not put it just ahead of the strut, since the cutless bearing needs a flow of water for lubrication.

The rudders are the same - isolated electrically from the hull, and protected by their own zincs. The rudders turn in nonconductive bearings, and are electrically isolated from the boat where they connect to the steering.

Out of the water, you can check the isolation with an ohmmeter, being sure to touch bare metal with both probes. To do this, you might consider running a wire from a trim screw topside, since you should have no bare hull metal below the water line. In the water, you can short each shaft to the hull, and look for needle movement on the Capac meter. You should get some, I show a bit less than .1 out of the desired 0.9 to 1.0, others may have different results.

The shafts/props, rudders, and trim tabs I believe are best protected with zinc. The hull needs special protection of course. I keep my boat in saltwater in Florida, almost ten years and no corrosion damage that I can see....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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dougrose
#18 Posted : Monday, April 05, 2010 11:43:16 PM(UTC)
dougrose

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The shaft and prop should be electrically isolated from the hull. There is a nonconductive spacer at the transmission flange, and of course the shaft contacts only rubber at the strut. This "system" of shaft and prop together needs to be protected with zinc on the shaft. Do not put it just ahead of the strut, since the cutless bearing needs a flow of water for lubrication.

The rudders are the same - isolated electrically from the hull, and protected by their own zincs. The rudders turn in nonconductive bearings, and are electrically isolated from the boat where they connect to the steering.

Out of the water, you can check the isolation with an ohmmeter, being sure to touch bare metal with both probes. To do this, you might consider running a wire from a trim screw topside, since you should have no bare hull metal below the water line. In the water, you can short each shaft to the hull, and look for needle movement on the Capac meter. You should get some, I show a bit less than .1 out of the desired 0.9 to 1.0, others may have different results.

The shafts/props, rudders, and trim tabs I believe are best protected with zinc. The hull needs special protection of course. I keep my boat in saltwater in Florida, almost ten years and no corrosion damage that I can see....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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dougrose
#19 Posted : Monday, April 05, 2010 11:43:17 PM(UTC)
dougrose

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The shaft and prop should be electrically isolated from the hull. There is a nonconductive spacer at the transmission flange, and of course the shaft contacts only rubber at the strut. This "system" of shaft and prop together needs to be protected with zinc on the shaft. Do not put it just ahead of the strut, since the cutless bearing needs a flow of water for lubrication.

The rudders are the same - isolated electrically from the hull, and protected by their own zincs. The rudders turn in nonconductive bearings, and are electrically isolated from the boat where they connect to the steering.

Out of the water, you can check the isolation with an ohmmeter, being sure to touch bare metal with both probes. To do this, you might consider running a wire from a trim screw topside, since you should have no bare hull metal below the water line. In the water, you can short each shaft to the hull, and look for needle movement on the Capac meter. You should get some, I show a bit less than .1 out of the desired 0.9 to 1.0, others may have different results.

The shafts/props, rudders, and trim tabs I believe are best protected with zinc. The hull needs special protection of course. I keep my boat in saltwater in Florida, almost ten years and no corrosion damage that I can see....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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