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goby
#1 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 5:24:52 AM(UTC)
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just finished sanding the old paint. in a few spots ( high spots or welds) went down to bare metal. how should this be handled? thanks
goby
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yooper
#2 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 7:04:19 AM(UTC)
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Good question. We have a lot of information on how to blast and repaint the whole bottom. That involves etching and a couple of coats of two part barrier paint. You could do that on a smaller scale. Or for a real cheap stopgap at $7.95 a can. Use some of that canned paint for outboard units. That is what is going on my steel rudders. I may spray on a coat of etching primer first.

http://www.boatstoreusa....0Touchup&subcat2=na

For more expert opinion on the subject:

http://www.ronjoseph.com...1_painting_aluminum.htm





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Barkleydave
#3 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 1:04:57 PM(UTC)
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Interlux Paint has a great web site. They have detailed directions of preperation and painting bare alluminum. They also offer a free CD that lists the products etc.


dave
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DiverDennis
#4 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 4:14:44 PM(UTC)
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goby wrote:
just finished sanding the old paint. in a few spots ( high spots or welds) went down to bare metal. how should this be handled? thanks
You are going to have to reprime those bare spots before applying bottom paint. I used Interlux 2000E on freshly sanded (less than 30 min) bare aluminum 3 years ago on the swim platform and coated with non slip Brightside. So far it is still looking good. Be sure to follow the suggested overcoating times.
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fastjeff
#5 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 4:27:49 PM(UTC)
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Not quick enough! It as to be done within seconds.

Try this: Mix up some CLEAR epoxy--the fast setting kind. Take some 40 grit sandpaper, dip it in the epoxy, and "wet sand" the bare aluminum spots with it. When you see the clear turn gray you're all set---that's the oxide coating being removed. Smooth out the wet epoxy and, when it's set, coat it with barrier coat then AF paint.

Jeff
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jralbert
#6 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 4:57:46 PM(UTC)
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Quick & dirty: If you have a few small spots - quarter or half dollar size - I don't think you have to go prep-crazy. Sand really well, down to bare metal, spot prime. The Trilux prep in a spray can will work for a season (not well, though on running gear - props/rudders) or try Primocon (Interlux primer for bare metal underwater). See what these areas look like next year. If the areas are larger (or you are Mr. fussy), then the full bore prep steps will give better, long-lasting results.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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dougrose
#7 Posted : Wednesday, April 14, 2010 11:08:48 PM(UTC)
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I have had good luck using Jeff's clear epoxy technique with WEST epoxy. It comes with little pumps so it is easy to mix, and is enormously useful. Every boat should have some. You can get it from West Marine, although it is not a West Marine product.

I have Primocon on my entire hull, and it has lasted for years, but I would not put it on bare metal. I use the Interlux 2000 for patching and touching up, mostly because it is easy to work with.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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bruegf
#8 Posted : Thursday, April 15, 2010 12:49:17 AM(UTC)
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Many 5 min epoxies are not suitable for use below the waterline. Make sure the one you use is. Personally, I only use West System epoxy for this.

Fred
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fastjeff
#9 Posted : Thursday, April 15, 2010 4:29:03 AM(UTC)
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Good point, Fred.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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