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will hts-2000 work on pits and holes in the hull?
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OffShoredreams
#1 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 12:52:15 AM(UTC)
OffShoredreams

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Seen this stuff on the internet,thinking of trying it and wondered has anybody used this stuff from the forum? I am skeptical but it is a cheap alternative to hiring a welder!

http://www.aluminumrepair.com/video_new.asp
Trying to sip wine on a beer budget......
32ft. resurrection eventually
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Rick100
#2 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 1:39:14 AM(UTC)
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Bought some at the boat show -- practiced on a beer can and got good at that. Tried two aluminum bars and could not get it to work as advertised. To properly repair a Marinette hull you should use the correct alloy for the aluminum our boats are made of. Not doing so could result in corrosion. Rick
When I die I hope my wife sells my stuff for more than I told her I paid for it.
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Docsnow
#3 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 2:26:20 AM(UTC)
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I have used it on the F/B helm area to fill some unsightly holes that the P.O. made under some of the obsolete electronics d'oh! being a half A$$ welder by trade it worked fairly well for that application & after a couple of years there’s no visible affects due to the difference it the alloy’s in their weld sticks & the alloy used on our BigMs "5086 grade AL" but I’d be wary of using it below the water line were electrolysis may occur. Now U have to remember that the person in the video is a professional welder which make it look very easy. I also did a stress test on it with a 1/8" fillet weld on either side of a tee type weld using 1/4" 2"x2" AL. with two blows of a hammer it cracked the weld area the third hit knocked it loose Now again I'm a half A$$ welder. My big concern would be the defference in alloy's Think

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

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Ed
#4 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 3:26:51 AM(UTC)
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They say you can repair aluminum, you braze it, not weld it with thier system.
Two big problems; the heat from the torch will cause distortion and oxidation of surrounding metal, and any filler metal that melts at that low a tempature is not aluminum. My guess is that it is zinc, and will have a much lower tensile strength. Also most aluminum is not to be welded. Thats why you see it rivited. If you do use this on something, be careful not to breathe the fumes. It can make you sick and you will be puking your guts out until you have nothing left, and then puking some more. Lots more.
-Ed
BUSIA
32 foot, no flybridge, twin 350 (chevy) Crusaders, closed (freshwater) cooling, 1:1 Velvet drive transmissions.
Proud to be IBEW.
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OffShoredreams
#5 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 1:05:01 PM(UTC)
OffShoredreams

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I heard breathing the fumes can be deadly! Watching the video...its more like soldering. You can see they have to tin the area and then brush it before joining the metals.I used to work in an electronics manufacturing plant and learned how to solder.I was thinking about the oxidation cause when you solder you have to wipe the tip with water or you would get bad soldered components ....my worries is,85 to 90% will be below the water line,that it would act like a anode! Question!!! I was told by the marina I got my project from that the bottom was epoxy/resin coated and thats why the bottom looked as good as it did for sitting in the water for ONLY 10 years!(looks like crap after seeing pix of your boats) It is coated with something could this "something" be west epoxy resin? Is this possible to help fight against galvanic erosion and electrolysis???? Hey Im just a dumb truck driver trying to brain storm ideas....anyhow all replies will be read seriously. thanx Jon
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jralbert
#6 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 3:42:05 PM(UTC)
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Whether this stuff contributes to corrosion depends on what it's made of and where it fits on the galvanic scale. You'd have to know that to make a determination.

I wouldn't count on a coating to inhibit electrolysis. Maybe a smidge, but prevention is the best approach. For example, no dissimilar metals contacting the aluminum, no copper anti-fouling paint (Trlux contains a relative of copper and is safe stuff). Use proper zincs.

Finally, there are no dumb questionms - the only dumb thing is to not ask. So jump in.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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dougrose
#7 Posted : Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:23:24 AM(UTC)
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WEST marine epoxy sticks to aluminum well if you wet sandpaper with it and sand it into the surface. This removes the oxide coating and lets the epoxy bond directly to the aluminum. This is not practical for a whole hull, so I wetsandblasted, etched (to remove the oxide), and coated first with zinc chromate primer and then with Primacon epoxy primer. I say that "I" did it, but my contribution was the work off putting my signature down in the lower right corner of a piece of paper with numbers and especially zeros all over it.

I also need to fill holes in my flybridge panel, and I would like to try this stuff in place of the WEST epoxy. I won't use it below the waterline until somebody else tries it first....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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OffShoredreams
#8 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 12:52:29 AM(UTC)
OffShoredreams

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Norm, "the alloy used on our marinettes "5086 grade AL" are you positive its 5086??? not 5083 or 6061? or does these quaulities not really make that big of difference?? I know nothing about compatabilities between metals. I have learned stainless steel will cause corrosion on marinettes aluminum!
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32ft. resurrection eventually
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Docsnow
#9 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:02:02 AM(UTC)
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I’m pretty sure 5086 is the # our vessels are made of. # 5086 is a marine grade AL. there are other marine grades also like the 6061 but am not sure of their compatibility properties. Any dissimilar metals will cause corrosion but S.S. is the lesser of the evils. There has been a # of topics on the isolation on S.S. fasteners such as sprays etc.

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
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Preldor
#11 Posted : Friday, May 07, 2010 1:36:02 PM(UTC)
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5000 series aluminum is a marine grade aluminum. This includes 5086 H-XX. (The H-XX indicates the type of hardening done to the aluminum.) In our case it is strain hardened as opposed to heat treatment of 6000 series. The 6061 is a structural series and is fine for any none immersion applications, and is compatible with 5000 series using either 4043 or 5356 filler wire. The mig or tig welding processes are both acceptable. Although I prefer using pulsed mig as this introduced less heat into the heat affected zone resulting in less warpage and distortion. A properly trained and experienced welder should be able to produce x-ray quality welds with this process. If you are going to repair your hull--spend the time and money to do it right. The posts about the brazing of hulls are correct. It is a cheap fix that will have you wishing you had done it properly the first time.

Peace,

Preldor
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