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Repainting from the water line up
beaconhill
#1 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 5:23:15 AM(UTC)
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What type of filler do you recommend I am probable going to use duraglass since it is water proof and icing for the final before epoxy then filler primer. Any suggestions?
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Barkleydave
#2 Posted : Monday, April 19, 2010 6:47:21 AM(UTC)
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I am a firm believer of using the products recommended by the paint mfg. Ie: interlux stay int the line. Interlux faring compound is for above waterline. In the interest of saving time.. go to their web site they have detaile applications.

dave
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dougrose
#3 Posted : Tuesday, April 20, 2010 12:43:35 AM(UTC)
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I use WEST epoxy mixed with phenolic microballoons as filler. It can be trowled when soft, rasped when firm, and sanded when hard. You can also use the glass microballoons but they are a little harder to sand. I find it easy to use, it sticks to anything, and it is completely waterproof. It is easy to use if you get the cans with the little pumps.

I always use high-build epoxy primer under paint. I block sand to remove brush marks and the like, and then paint over the top. Use as large a block as you can. You can mix brands between primer and topcoat, at least it has always worked for me. I would not remove the original paint if it is stuck on. Both of my Ms were wonderfully prepped at the factory. I just sanded with 36 grit to level the surface and then used the epoxy primer. Big problems (cracks in the filler) can be filled before sanding. Block sand once with 100 grit to get a smooth flat surface, and go for the topcoat. I use 3 thin coats of easypoxy, which is a good compromise between ease of use and quality of finish.

Guys like fastjeff will show you photos of fantastic paint jobs that they do. I can't do that. I try for a decent finish that will be easy to repair after it gets banged by dingys and boathooks and whatever.



1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
yooper
#4 Posted : Tuesday, April 20, 2010 5:29:21 AM(UTC)
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DOUG,

I am a epoxy rookie. I need to waterproof and seal a 3" laminated outboard mounting board on my sail boat. I also want to try the micro ballon filler on my Marinette. I would also like to try out Jeff's sanding method to seal up bare aluminum. There is no marine store near me. I found can (about a pint) of 3M Bondo brand epoxy at Wal-mart. It was only $12. The can said to use Acetone, which I have, for a thinner. My questions. What is the shelf life of epoxy, can I store a larger quantity? Do I have to paint over it to protect from sun? Wouldn't 3M make a good enough quality product for my purposes?
fastjeff
#5 Posted : Tuesday, April 20, 2010 9:42:32 AM(UTC)
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Is that a filler or a clear liquid? If you need a filler, PC-7 brand MARINE epoxy is sold in most hardware stores and works well under water. I've had some below the water line mine for over 5 years now with NO problems.

Jeff
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dougrose
#6 Posted : Tuesday, April 20, 2010 11:14:58 PM(UTC)
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I don't know if Bondo brand epoxy is much good under water, but is likely OK for use above the water line. Bondo products are not designed to be immersed, they are intended for car bodies. Check the label - if it doesn't say that it's good under water don't use it there.

You can get WEST epoxy from any boat store, I like Hamilton Marine in Maine but West Marine is OK. Get the cans and the pumps to go in them, and a bunch of little plastic cups and exam gloves. The WEST system includes various fillers - so it is versatile and there is no question about it being marine-grade. On the other hand, the stuff is expensive.

It is handy to get stuff with the filler already in it. I haven't used PC-7 but I would consider using it after Jeff's recommendation.

As for the outboard mounting board, I would:

rout the edges to a nice radius
drill holes oversize and fill with epoxy/filler
saturate with liquid epoxy using a disposable brush
then sand smooth
Lay 6 oz. glass cloth on top and saturate, working around the edges as much as possible. It helps to trim, slit, or pull out fibers to get around the radius as far as possible.
when hard, turn it over and do the other side.
sand the fuzzies off.
using fiberglas tape or cut strips, cover the edges and overlap the glass as much as possible.
Redrill the holes to the size needed. This leaves the hole lined with epoxy, not endgrain.
paint to suit.

I have done this a lot. Frankly, I don't have the patience for it anymore, and I would buy a piece of StarBoard and make a plastic one. The plastic is heavy but lasts forever.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
pfhlaw
#7 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 2:47:21 AM(UTC)
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Yoop:
3M makes several different products which they call Bondo.
They even make a marine version. Some are one-part putties and others are two-part.
The 3M site says the one-part has a 3 year shelf life. Couldn't find any data on two-part shelf life.

I used west system to fill osmotic blisters on my last boat. It worked great.
Peter
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twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
yooper
#8 Posted : Wednesday, April 21, 2010 3:27:03 AM(UTC)
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That 3M epoxy I found at Wal-Mart was a liquid resin with a tube of hardener. Instructions on the can covered how to glue down fiberglass cloth. It was not the Bondo putty. There was also a boxed kit with the same resin that contained instructions and a piece of fiberglass cloth to patch a hole in boat. For $12 I am going to try it out. I like smaller quanities I can use up quickly. Some of these chemicals have a short shelf life expecially if you leave them out in the cold. I had to throw away an 3 year old can of varnish. It would not harden anymore. I now keep all my paints, glues, spraycans and finishes in the house.
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