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Bottom paint project progress report...
DiverDennis
#1 Posted : Monday, May 03, 2010 8:41:59 PM(UTC)
DiverDennis

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Hello All,

Noticed the primer peeking thru in some areas so I've been workin' on bottom prep for a couple of weeks. The last paint job was 4 years ago so it is time for a couple of new coats.

The Interlux antifouling compatibility guide says to just power wash and scrub with a course Scotch-Brite® pad. But I found the Scoth-Bright pad method to be inadequate. You need to use 80 grit sandpaper as stated in the Trilux 33 data sheet. Used 5 inch, 8 hole zirconium oxide hook & loop discs, and a Dewalt orbital attached to a Shop Vac. The 80 grit was awful slow to cut so went with 50 followed up by the 80. T33 is some tough stuff.

Chine and transom done mostly mostly by hand. Removed the keel zincs and trim pads. Sanded as much as possible before having to pull trailer out. The air over hyd jack is nice. Two boat stands aft and hyd jack on forward keel, pull trailer up, drop keel on jack stand, move hyd jack, repeat until 2nd pair of stands can be placed forward amid ship. With boat on 4 stands you can pull trailer out and then put hyd jack back under fore keel for safety.

Won't be long before the T33 goes on.

More pictures here.

Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
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ComputerJoe
#2 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 12:56:53 AM(UTC)
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You make it sound easier than I had it. I had about 12 cross frames and 4 jack stands. Could only move the trailer about 12-16" each move. Doing it by myself took about 6 hours of back and forth.
tundrarules
#3 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:00:48 AM(UTC)
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DiverDennis thanks for sharing your progress. Pics are great Applause
1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
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If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
collins69s
#4 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 5:41:59 AM(UTC)
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Hey Dennis the pics look great. One thing that makes me a little more than a little uneasy is your use of a cinder block to support your jack with. Those things can crumble in a second and if had the weight of the big M on it when it did there could be some serious problems for you, the least of which would be damage to your boat. Try to find something solid like a chunk of railroad tie or anything solid and wood. A squared off log, anything but that cinder block. Call me overly cautions but... Sometimes it pays off.
Nice work!
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
fastjeff
#5 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 6:43:11 AM(UTC)
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The cinder block would be okay if it was oriented the other way (holes vertical), but I'd NEVER get under there without the keel resting on a stack of blocks! I nearly had a car fall on me once, and that was enough.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

DiverDennis
#6 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 8:18:26 AM(UTC)
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Fastjeff wrote:
The cinder block would be okay if it was oriented the other way (holes vertical), but I'd NEVER get under there without the keel resting on a stack of blocks!
All the weight is on the stands. The jack is only there for safety. I have changed the block's orientation since the picture was taken. Thanks.
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
fastjeff
#7 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 10:19:41 AM(UTC)
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Okay, but normally all the weight is supported by the keel, with the stands there only to prevent a rollover.

Just looking out for you and your boat.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

NightMoves
#8 Posted : Tuesday, May 04, 2010 10:18:44 PM(UTC)
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that is how mine fell, the block crumbledMike
dougrose
#9 Posted : Wednesday, May 05, 2010 12:03:40 AM(UTC)
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I don't see a chain tying the two stands together. This is a good idea, keeps the stands from oozing outward and dropping the boat...


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
cap'n Brent
#10 Posted : Wednesday, May 05, 2010 8:30:48 AM(UTC)
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i have to do this also but i plan to jack trailer up aft block keel let trailer down hoist bow with 20t crane pull trailer then set keel blocking dose any one know lift point amidship
HP Chadwick bay Sunset Bay lake Erie NY boat name Sunrise 32' f/b fisherman chry 318 twin blue bastards,28'express singel 318
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DiverDennis
#11 Posted : Thursday, May 13, 2010 3:46:55 PM(UTC)
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Got one coat on the keel, strut, transom, rudder, chine and the spots where sanding revealed the 3rd primer coat. Should be complete by the weekend if the humidity comes down. Put a jack under the aft keel as per your suggestions. Thanks.



Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
Docsnow
#12 Posted : Thursday, May 13, 2010 8:51:46 PM(UTC)
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Dennis,

I’m sure U are well aware of this little tidbit. But after doing such a nice job painting the keel U do know that U’ll have to grind & or sand it down to bare AL at least at the contact spots for the anodes to be effective. What I usually do is put small 1" x 1" pieces of masking tape so one doesn’t have to remove the freshly applied A/F paint & primer just simply peel the tape off.
AnyWho just my ½ penny’s worth Whistle

Norm,

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DiverDennis
#13 Posted : Friday, May 14, 2010 4:35:02 AM(UTC)
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Hi Norm,

Thanks for the reply. You can't see the tape but it is there. Gonna be painting today. :)
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
marinettejoe
#14 Posted : Sunday, May 16, 2010 3:27:46 AM(UTC)
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Just cleared off the back of the boat paint with aircraft stripper. Nasty stuff, and with a lot of paint you have do it twice.

The Rustoleum spray can works best, but "cover up and wear a mask and googles". The stuff eats through nitrile rubber gloves - so I used PVC over nitrile.

Works though .... Methylene Choride.

Do not ever burn it to get rid of this stuff.
Unzinced ships sink at slips. yep
DiverDennis
#15 Posted : Sunday, May 16, 2010 3:45:30 PM(UTC)
DiverDennis

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Spent most of yesterday spot sanding the roller nap from the first coat. Used a premium 3/8" nap roller that had been vacuumed and washed with solvent. Put the second coat on today with a "no shed" 9 inch 3/8" microfiber roller. Put on a thick smooth coat with no nap contamination. Got 'em at Lowe's. At first usage, some of the polyester fibers did come off but you can fix 'em as you go. As the job progressed, the shedding wasn't much of an issue.

Back in 2006 we used Jabsco paint stripper to get to shiny. It's primary compound is Dichloromethane (CAS 75-09-2). Took six weeks of stripping and sanding.

Dichloromethane (DCM or methylene chloride) is the organic compound with the formula CH2Cl2. This colorless, volatile liquid with a moderately sweet aroma is widely used as a solvent. More than 500,000 tons were produced in 1991. Although it is not miscible with water, it is miscible with many organic solvents.[1] It was first prepared in 1840 by the French chemist Henri Victor Regnault, who isolated it from a mixture of chloromethane and chlorine that had been exposed to sunlight.
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
DiverDennis
#16 Posted : Tuesday, May 18, 2010 4:52:31 PM(UTC)
DiverDennis

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Put the 3rd and final coat on today. First, another coat was put on the squares where the jacks were (first one on Mon) and then the bottom coat. T33 dries super fast so it is hard to see where you have been when you stop to take a bathroom break. Whistle Also makes it difficult to keep a wet edge. The mircofiber rollers are the ticket.

The point where the bottom paint meets the hull paint got messed up during sanding so it was masked off and touched up with Brightside. Now it looks great with a nice crisp line.

Removed all the blue masking tape, put the cable hold down screws in (with 3M 4200) for the transom transducer and thruster motor cables, put the zincs and the trim tabs back on. Hooked up a digital multimeter from the tabs to hull to watch for isolation during reinstall. Infinity.

Ended up using ~ 1.7 gallons of T33.

Will get the trailer back under Her this weekend. Going to Muskegon on the 30th for a week of fishing. Applause
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
vitalidle
#17 Posted : Tuesday, May 18, 2010 10:29:29 PM(UTC)
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Congrats! Time for a few laps on the water:)
Sean Cornish
83 28ft Sportsman twin 318's
Homeport: Munising, MI.
DiverDennis
#18 Posted : Wednesday, May 19, 2010 6:56:36 PM(UTC)
DiverDennis

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Thanks Vitalidle.
Got the trailer back under Her today. Paint job DONE!
Thanks for all the replies.
Applause
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
fastjeff
#19 Posted : Wednesday, May 19, 2010 10:30:37 PM(UTC)
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Gonna look into that 'no shed' roller. Thanks.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Doug Doty
#20 Posted : Thursday, May 20, 2010 1:28:12 AM(UTC)
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I have to admit I have never considered trim tab isolation, how is it managed, from memory they just bolted to the attachment plate on the transom ???
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