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Cutlass Bearing Replacement
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metalmanbret
#1 Posted : Tuesday, May 25, 2010 11:49:03 AM(UTC)
metalmanbret

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O.K., so i've read all the how-to's on how to replace the cutlass bearings, and what a pain it is to disconnect the shaft from the trans and get the coupling off but......., my uncle just did his and he disconnected the shaft strut from the hull and left the shaft alone. Anyone else do it this way, and are there any downsides to it?? I need to do mine next year, and it never occurred to me to do it this way.
'84, 39' Sedan
Twin 440 Chryslers 330 h.p.
Raw water cooled
Boat Name:On Island Time
Home Port: West Harbor, Catawba
'91, 23' Rinker
Boat Name: Weekend Sanity
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Wednesday, May 26, 2010 8:40:11 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Ugh! I hope he got it back the way it was.

Be sure to check the alignment after it's floating.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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metalmanbret
#3 Posted : Wednesday, May 26, 2010 10:08:46 AM(UTC)
metalmanbret

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Doesn't it sound a lot easier that way?
'84, 39' Sedan
Twin 440 Chryslers 330 h.p.
Raw water cooled
Boat Name:On Island Time
Home Port: West Harbor, Catawba
'91, 23' Rinker
Boat Name: Weekend Sanity
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dougrose
#4 Posted : Wednesday, May 26, 2010 1:27:10 PM(UTC)
dougrose

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I have seen the cutless bearings removed by just removing the prop and the shaft zinc, which is normally just ahead of the strut, and pressing it out using a tool for the purpose. Basically it was just a piece of pipe with ID to fit the shaft, and OD to fit inside the strut, that was sawn in half lengthwise to fit around the shaft. With the halves held by a hose clamp, a puller is used to pull the split pipe through the strut, pushing the old cutless bearing out ahead of it.

I have looked online for this setup, and cannot find anything, so I don't know if these are a custom tool, or if I just don't have the correct sources. At any rate, I have to replace the cutless and strut together, and I have them already assembled by John.

If you figure in having to realign the engines to the shafts, I'd say there is not a lot to be saved there.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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fastjeff
#5 Posted : Wednesday, May 26, 2010 11:04:22 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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I doubt if one could press out the non-metalic strut bushings with that rig, Doug. And I sure as hell wouldn't want to chance wrecking a new bearing by pushing it back in with one!

When I did mine, I had to sand the hole a bunch before the bushing would go in without distortion or jamming, which would mean a ruined bearing. They aren't tough.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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dougrose
#6 Posted : Thursday, May 27, 2010 1:58:47 AM(UTC)
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I think you are right. My friend Capt Jim points out that crew boats are made in production, and that they are delivered with special tools to speed up maintenance chores, and that the boats are designed to accept these tools. None of this is obvious to the guy watching thru the fence.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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fastjeff
#7 Posted : Thursday, May 27, 2010 4:21:24 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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After speaking with Captain Brent this morning, I suddenly realized that you lucky folks out there with 1:1 drives have LOTS of space to remove your shaft couplings. Not so us poor fools with the 1.52:1 drives--very tight!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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