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Alternator Fiasco
collins69s
#43 Posted : Tuesday, November 23, 2010 11:54:21 AM(UTC)
collins69s

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Hey Jeff, I'm sure you thought of this too, but sometimes you can back a broken tap out using hammer and a punch.. Especially if you only have a short distance to get above the surface and grab it with vise grips, it might be worth a try..

On the alternator issue, Tundra.. There is zero voltage coming from the alternator or just low voltage?
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
tundrarules
#44 Posted : Tuesday, November 23, 2010 12:11:26 PM(UTC)
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Quote:
On the alternator issue, Tundra.. There is zero voltage coming from the alternator or just low voltage?
Sean


I am reading 12.79 volts on battery without engine running.

I am reading 12.67 with the engine running at 1500 rpms.

I'm reading less volts with the engine running !!!

Took reading directly from alternator and it reads same as battery voltage.

Do you think I should even try swapping voltage regulator.



http://www.aa1car.com/library/charging_checks.htm



1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


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collins69s
#45 Posted : Tuesday, November 23, 2010 12:44:44 PM(UTC)
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I think it's worth a shot. Many of my alt. issues were solved with an old voltage regulator that was left in the dock box and me cleaning all the alt. connections and installing new ring connectors where needed. I'm still not 100% positive which voltage regulator was correct for the 318's.. The stbd one was different from the port one and the one in the dock box wasn't the same as either of those.. Three different styles, but same set-up.. The bad one had a fryed plain wire in it, like a fuse wire.. I can't recall the correct term.. So it charged about the same readings as you show.. As soon as I changed it it was up to about 14v.
You'll figure it out.
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
tundrarules
#46 Posted : Tuesday, November 23, 2010 1:25:37 PM(UTC)
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I will swap the regulator with the known good one....cross my fingers....but after my good friend switched the perko while the engine was running a month or so ago my hopes are not high that it's the regulator Drool Lesson learned d'oh! All on this forum learn from my mistake ! Do not switch the battery perko switch while engines are running. I will let you guys know what I find.

BigM
1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
tundrarules
#38 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 10:16:20 AM(UTC)
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tundrarules wrote:
Found out my stbd alternator is not producing voltage yesterday d'oh!. If I understand correctly, the voltage regulator has an output that goes to the alternator to excite the field in the alternator so it that it puts out voltage required by the battery or load.

Didn't have time to troubleshoot. I have one of two batteries on that bank out of the boat so I don't know if that would cause a problem....I wouldn't think so.

I guess my first step will be to swap voltage regulators. Check grounding of alternator (need to add grounding straps as you guys recommend...more work...great!) Then pull alternator to get tested.

A buddy of mine switched the perko switch on that bank a few weeks ago (engine running) while I watched d'oh!. Newbe mistake because there's a large warning sign next to the switch that says don't turn this switch while the engine is running ! d'oh!

I guess we damaged something...not sure what yet...Any comments Think


Forgot to swap voltage regulators before I winterized engines Think.....so I just took alternator off for testing at local rebuild shop...Called them today and they said parts may be hard to get. He said if he could get parts it would cost around $140 for a rebuild d'oh!...seems a bit steep considering I can buy a new "one wire" alt for about $110 shipped to my door.

What do you guys think...get a rebuild because the old one is better quality or go with a new "one wire" like this one Click here "One Wire"
Not sure if this is cheap China crap or what.

Even if my alternator checks out good, the regulator will cost about $35...that's 1/3 the cost of a new one wire set up

Thoughts Eh?

1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
fastjeff
#47 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 10:50:50 AM(UTC)
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New always beats rebuilt (especially if it's cheaper!)

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Barkleydave
#48 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 10:54:04 AM(UTC)
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My Vote: Replace with one wire alts.

Masco was a good company to deal with. The price might not have been the lowest but mine have run for 6 years now with NO problems!

Longevity trumps cheap junk

dave
None
collins69s
#49 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 11:01:42 AM(UTC)
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Is there a bunch of extra stuff he has to buy to make the one wire alt conversion?
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
tundrarules
#50 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 11:51:14 AM(UTC)
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Have 3 options to choose from here (3 amp ratings)DB Electric (East TN Company) options

This one is 65 amp for $169 Delco Starter $169

Which amp rating should I get...I think the one I have on the boat is a 65 amp or so....should I put high amp on??

Quote:
Is there a bunch of extra stuff he has to buy to make the one wire alt conversion?
Sean


My understanding is....all I need is one wire going to battery and a ground strap or wire (for better grounding..frame grounding is not the best) Wouldn't you guys agree that is all I need??



1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
Barkleydave
#51 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 1:45:53 PM(UTC)
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Include the appropriate size in line fuse close to the battery terminal for each alternator.


dave
None
fastjeff
#52 Posted : Thursday, February 03, 2011 5:35:25 PM(UTC)
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With a one wire, you can remove the voltage regulator and ses its 12 volt input wire for electric chokes or whatever.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

tundrarules
#53 Posted : Saturday, February 05, 2011 9:58:09 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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Fastjeff wrote:
With a one wire, you can remove the voltage regulator and ses its 12 volt input wire for electric chokes or whatever.

Jeff


Great !!! Been needing to hook my choke up anyway Applause Hold on a minute Think Where does the 12V input to the voltage regulator come from? Does the 12V input come from Battery when ignition switch turned on? Only 12V input when ignition switch turned on right???




Quote:
Include the appropriate size in line fuse close to the battery terminal for each alternator.


I don't recall seeing a fuse inline....did I miss it??? Did the factory install one in 1985?


1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
Barkleydave
#54 Posted : Saturday, February 05, 2011 10:59:13 AM(UTC)
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There should be 2 breakers on rear of engine. 1 for ignition 1 for alternator.

The one for the alternator is to small for a new 65 amp alternator.

dave
None
fastjeff
#56 Posted : Saturday, February 05, 2011 12:34:52 PM(UTC)
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..."Where does the 12V input to the voltage regulator come from? Does the 12V input come from Battery when ignition switch turned on? Only 12V input when ignition switch turned on right???"

Correct!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

tundrarules
#55 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 10:02:31 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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Barkleydave wrote:
There should be 2 breakers on rear of engine. 1 for ignition 1 for alternator.

The one for the alternator is to small for a new 65 amp alternator.

dave



Old alternator puts out 61amps, new one will put out 63amps.....You don't think the breaker will work? Think

Looks like the breaker says 50 amps, seems like it should be a bigger breaker anyway.

Here is pic of breakers Pic link here

Anyone else feel free to chime in.




1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
dougrose
#57 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 11:25:26 PM(UTC)
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Ding!

Those look like thermal breakers. They will probably trip at around nominal + 40% and have a long tiime delay. That combined with the fact that your alternator will almost never put out full current for more than seconds using an automotive regulator means that it will probably be fine. Not to code, though.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fastjeff
#58 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 12:02:34 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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No problem--unless the breaker is already half worn out. I have a 75 amp alternator on the same "50 amp" breaker and it has yet to trip. Only under perfect conditions does an alternator put out its maximum voltage.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

tundrarules
#59 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 4:05:39 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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As always, you guys are the best Applause Thanks for all the help. I was about to go test my old alternator, but why waste the time. I know it is the regulator or alternator, could be ground problem, but I am not at the boat to troubleshoot that. Seeing that a regulator cost $40 and I can get a new "one wire alternator" shipped to my door for $90, I'm going with the new alternator and scrap the old external alternator system.

Thanks again for the input...Applause


Ordered my alternator from these guys http://www.dbelectrical.com/...Good prices and they are located in East Tennessee.

$95 for 63amp "one wire" marine shipped to door.


1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
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