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Laser Temp Gun And Ex. Mainifold Temp
collins69s
#1 Posted : Sunday, July 18, 2010 4:36:55 PM(UTC)
collins69s

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So after reading last week's topic about impellers and temp., etc., I got curious about my temps. A couple weeks ago I had an odd smell at higher RPM, or actually when slowing down from high RPM .. Not sure what, but something was cooking that smelled bad.. Maybe burning rubber-ish, but I'm from Akron and I know what burning rubber smells like.. And this was similar... So today in he later afternoon after a 45 minute or so cruise on a deceivingly calm looking Lake Erie (wind was pretty funky, swirling and catching the boat making it do some odd pitching ) I decided to check. I got out my laser temp gun (Excellent Tool box addition Jeff, do I get a gold star? Got mine two months ago at Harbor Freight for @ 25 bucks..) and checked the exhaust manifolds about 5 minutes after we docked. The stbd engine stbd ex. manifold was 141 and the other three were @ 115-119.. Impeller on stbd engine changed last year by Pier 53 marina per previous owner's request. I have the receipt. Previous owner said it wasn't pumping H20 and called them. They replaced impeller. Everything seems to be running well, but the reading was a skew enough to make me wonder. Temp gauges while cruising are at @ 145-150 both engines.. Have similar amounts of H20 and steam from both exhausts while cruising .. Usually around 2500- 3000 RPM. Also I am installing MSD blaster coils that I went to Summit Racing and bought last Friday. There are Blue Streak coils on there now.. Think the stbd coil is cheesed up a bit. Engine sounds weird at higher RPM ... Should I change the stbd impeller myself and clean the crap out of where it seats or not be concerned? Anyone?... Buehler?
Thanks!
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Sunday, July 18, 2010 11:22:44 PM(UTC)
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You get the gold star!

Is the motor running weird AFTER the coil change? Not sure from reading your post.

I've seen 140 'F in the exhaust system before--that wouldn't concern me--but if one side of the same motor is hotter than the other, that would would. Any plugging of the water outlet in a riser send more water to the other side, making it run cooler as well.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#3 Posted : Sunday, July 18, 2010 11:48:06 PM(UTC)
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Used to use stickers that record the highest temperature reached by changing color. Might be useful to catch heating problems in the exhaust manifolds that would otherwise go unnoticed. I know that Scigiene in Canada makes them for medical purposes ( http://www.scigiene.com/...pment_sales.php?catId=6 ) but they can be purchased here too....

The advantage is that you can see if there was an overheat condition during the last run by checking the sticker when the engine is cold, during your pre-start once-over.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
collins69s
#4 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 3:19:11 AM(UTC)
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No Jeff, I haven't changed the coils yet. I'm hoping that will cure the weirdness.. Just seems like its not firing right at higher RPM.. Sounds like something is off..But it runs well.
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
collins69s
#5 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 3:17:10 PM(UTC)
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So.. Should I leave it or tear it apart? Can I check for an obstruction without pulling it apart? The other three manifold temps are the same ( both stbd manifolds and stbd side port manifold) so I don't think that water is diverting from that one to the stbd side of the port engine..
Thanks Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
GB49
#6 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 3:22:52 PM(UTC)
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Did you check the ignition modules? They like to melt and dribble on the transmission housing if you have the older, log style manifold setup. The ignition junk is under the black plastic box on back of engine. You cant tell if there is a problem unless you actually see the melted goo or you remove the module and inspect the backside. Its like an epoxy mixed with sand.

The newer center dump engines have the ignition parts on the top side, if I'm not mistaken.

This is all Chrysler specific.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
collins69s
#7 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 3:45:02 PM(UTC)
collins69s

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Hey Karl, I don't have those modules on my 318's.. I have the voltage regulator and the other parts mounted on a steel panel above the trans... I guess it's before the ignition module era.. What effect would that have with exhaust manifold temps? Oh maybe you mean the smell.. Yeah, I don't think that's it..
Thanks!
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
GB49
#8 Posted : Monday, July 19, 2010 11:26:06 PM(UTC)
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I was just thinking the smell.
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
collins69s
#9 Posted : Tuesday, July 20, 2010 1:46:04 AM(UTC)
collins69s

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So the manual says there is an exhaust manifold thermostat in there. I don't have time to elaborate, but anyone familiar with this? Shows it as a intake type thermostat mounted vertically in the manifold.
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
fastjeff
#10 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 3:58:01 AM(UTC)
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What (exact) motors are these? I'm not aware that Chrysler ever did that, though Mercruiser did.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

collins69s
#11 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 4:41:48 AM(UTC)
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Hey Jeff, M273 and LM318 engines..

The manual states that " All fresh water cooled engines have had incorporated within the exhaust manifold (or upper portion of "S" type riser if so equipped), a thermostat to control the exhaust manifold temperature. " Then it shows the diagram. The thermostat is part # 2847431

Also regarding engine overheating or exhaust manifold overheating ( M273 & LM318 with single 1'' water inlet)
"When engine overheating is encountered, or a condition where exhaust manifold overheating fluctuates from side to side, a restrictor installed between the exhaust manifold and the exhaust elbow ( or between "S" riser and exhaust manifold where risers are are used) will stabilize the cooling system. "
It is essentially a washer .94-1.10 in diameter with a .35 hole in the center and is .30-.35 thick. These are the exact dimensions in the manual.

It continues: Restrictor is to be assembled into the machined recess around the water outlet passage in the exhaust elbow.
In emergency the flanged end cover from exhaust manifold thermostat P/N 2847431 may be used as a restrictor.
In cases where an old style exhaust elbow without the machined recess is used an additional gasket, P/N 2847432,
assembled between exhaust manifold and exhaust elbow should be used to locate the restrictor in the correct
position.."
Signed J.J. Bartos
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
collins69s
#12 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 4:47:00 AM(UTC)
collins69s

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Hey Jeff, here's the other thread I started with pics of the manual diagramming where they go and also more about the restictors and where to place them.

http://www.marinetteboat...Manifold-Thermostat.aspx
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
fastjeff
#13 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 10:47:20 AM(UTC)
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Ah-hah! So that's where they may have stuck the little darling. Never seen one, but that means nothing. I have to rip my starboard elbow/ riser apart tomorrow morning, so I'll see if there's a spot in the castings where it would go.

Jeff

PS: All in all, I'd toss that sucker out if it's there--it could cause may too much deviltry.
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

collins69s
#14 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 12:38:35 PM(UTC)
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Hey Jeff,I have been thinking more about this. Do you think the increased back pressure from having the thermostat or the restrictor in place would help distribute/circulate the cooling water through the block in a more thorough manner, i.e. getting deeper into the block at a steadier flow than if the therm/restrictor wasn't in place? And we all know what happens to engines when they are run without a thermostat.. Just playing the devils advocate a bit.. If you can, when you pull your riser tomorrow measure the recess diameter where the therm. should go and the hole in the casting . I'd like to maybe see if I can match one up that's not the actual Chrysler part. I'd probably go for a 120 deg one, I suppose.
Thanks!
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
fastjeff
#15 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 2:43:23 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Will do. The water has to go somewhere, so I don't understand why anyone would try to restrict it like that.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

collins69s
#17 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 4:54:44 PM(UTC)
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Well I guess what I am thinking is that yes, the water has to go somewhere, but.. If it doesn't get to the interior of the engine before it flows out the exhaust.. And if the pressure required by restricting the flow at the outlet is what it takes to make it flow in the water/cooling passages by the restrictor/therm... What I am thinking is like this. Say I have a garden hose with holes poked in it that is supposed to water my flower beds.. If I have a plug on the end of the hose (therm/restrictor) the water comes squirting out the holes in the hose. Flowers get watered.. If I remove the plug (restrictor/thermostat) the water gushes out the end of the hose (exhaust) without ever being forced through the holes to water the beds.. ( the water jackets in our blocks..).. Just thinkin'..
Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
fastjeff
#18 Posted : Friday, July 23, 2010 11:17:16 PM(UTC)
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Correct me if I'm wrong (hah!) but isn't your motor fresh water cooled? No raw water is flowing through it, right?

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

collins69s
#19 Posted : Saturday, July 24, 2010 2:40:54 AM(UTC)
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Yes..No...Maybe... I am a little iffy on which is which. I believe fresh water cooled means there is a heat exchanger and it's a closed system like a car. And raw water system means water is drawn from the sea/lake and pumped through the block. Mine is the latter, water from the lake pumped through the engine to cool it. So then it's raw water cooled...Correct?

Sean
SIFF SURF
1972 32' FB Express
Twin 318s
fastjeff
#20 Posted : Saturday, July 24, 2010 8:46:29 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Raw water cooled.

I pulled the elbow/ riser apart this morning and, yes, there is a place where a t-stat could go. But, it would need to be machined for it, and it is not.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

jralbert
#21 Posted : Saturday, July 24, 2010 9:43:35 AM(UTC)
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You sure picked a nice day for it. Hope you had at least one foot in the bay while you were working! Did you get your riser problem resolved?
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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