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Shaft Isolation
Capt. Chad
#1 Posted : Friday, August 13, 2010 12:37:03 PM(UTC)
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So... I know the shafts are supposed to be isolated for corrosion protection. Exactly how is this supposed to work. I am replacing a coupler and I had a SS shaft going into a steel coupler bolted to the steel hub on the steel crank. What's missing and where does it go?
1981 32' Sedan Fly Bridge
440 ci 330hp (2)
7.5 kw Kohler
"International Harbor Marina"
Friendsville TN, TN River
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Roger2
#2 Posted : Saturday, August 14, 2010 4:56:05 AM(UTC)
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There is suposed to be an isolation "gasket" between coupling halfves & insulation sleeves for each bolt along with an insulating washer on each side of the coupling, under bolt head & nut.
hope this helps.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
jimski2
#3 Posted : Saturday, August 14, 2010 11:28:48 PM(UTC)
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The stern tube should have non conductive packing and a special non brass cutlass bearing. The struts need the cutlass bearing and the bolts holding it should be isolated also.
dougrose
#4 Posted : Sunday, August 15, 2010 2:47:05 AM(UTC)
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I just put in a new strut and did NOT isolate it from the hull. I don't think you need to. The strut itself is aluminum, and the cutless bearing isolates it from the shaft. There was no sign that it had ever been isolated.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
fishnatic
#5 Posted : Sunday, August 15, 2010 3:12:00 AM(UTC)
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had the strut off my old 28 and present 29.5 never seen any evidense of being isolated
Docsnow
#6 Posted : Sunday, August 15, 2010 3:42:10 AM(UTC)
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About the only place I’d put any isolation protection would be on the S.S. bolts (8) I’d put a piece of shrink wrap on the treaded area that will come in contact with the AL. & plastic washers @ head & nut areas that will be in contact with AL. just to eliminate any chance dissimilar metal corrosion.
AnyWho just my ½ penny’s worth Whistle

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