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tundrarules
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 29, 2010 11:21:40 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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Bilge Monkey 101

Parallel switch not working Brick wall

Is my parallel start solenoid located behind bildge C/B panel (panel between both engines as you face forward in bildge)? Man that looks like it's hard to get to. I'm guessing I could take off c/b panel and change it like that.


I see a solenoid just to the right and in front of port engine; that is my head flush solenoid I think (click with flush Applause)

Looks like the parallel solenoid has only one small terminal on the front unlike a normal solenoid.. hard to see good on my standing on my head... anyone have a part number?

Any tips appreciated Eh?
1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL

RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:00:06 PM(UTC)
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Not as hard as it looks. Remove the screrws and the wwhole panel lays down for you.

Note that the solenoid is NOT a starter solenoid; it's a special, low wattage design that's used for boats and RVs. NAPA sells them.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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dougrose
#3 Posted : Wednesday, September 29, 2010 12:10:31 PM(UTC)
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If your solenoid has only one small terminal, then the return is via the frame. This is standard automotive practice. If you go to Advance for one, they will probably try to give you a start solenoid, which is not continuous rated. Don't use it unless it is labelled "continuous rated".

You probably should replace it with a marine unit, such as http://store.hamiltonmar...tud-142597/4,18434.html . These are good quality (Cole-Hersee) and run around 25 bux. You will need a new wire from the second small stud to your engine ground (black or yellow).

If you want the parallel switch so that you can parallel the batteries while charging (running) then you might consider digging a little deeper and using an automatic combiner that connects the two batteries together when either one is being charged. That way you don't have to remember to turn the switch on and off. A good unit for around 55 bux is http://store.hamiltonmar...00a-730942/4,39648.html

If you want the parallel switch so that you can parallel the batteries for emergency starting, a simple switch is probably the best bet. It is more reliable than a solenoid, and you don't turn it on very often. A good choice for 25 bux would be http://store.hamiltonmar...ous-172916/4,31967.html


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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tundrarules
#4 Posted : Thursday, October 28, 2010 5:15:06 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for the info guys. A little safety tip on the parallel switch.

Almost got into a bad situation a few days ago because my parallel switch is inop d'oh!.

Pulling out of slip (tight docking) almost made the turn out of slip. Lost port engine, the engine I need to make a turn to stbd Eh? 15mph cross wind....

Dead engine because battery was toast ! Couldn't restart ! Fast approaching boats on other side decided starting engine was a lost cause and decided to add throttle on stbd and hopefully get enough speed that rudders would work. Barely made it Eh?

The parallel switch is a safety item if in a tight docking situation !

Is this the low watt type that should be used? Not at the boat to check things out, just need to order one based on research.


This looks like the exact thing I need... What do you think?
http://www.amazon.com/Cole-Hersee-24106-Continuous-Solenoid/dp/B001FQL43U


INFO http://www.colehersee.com/pdf/master_cat/e_solenoid.PDF




1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL

RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
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Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Thursday, October 28, 2010 9:51:48 AM(UTC)
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Must be ignition protected! Is that one is??

They state that the M-202 Is Marine protected? If it has a number with a prefix of 162 it is USCG certified or UL for Marine use is also acceptable.

You might find that cleaning all the contacts (TIP: do not sand off the tinning!) it may still be ok... they are pretty darn tuff and rarely fail except for start Selanoids for some reason?



dave
None
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dougrose
#6 Posted : Thursday, October 28, 2010 11:25:45 PM(UTC)
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The 24106 is only rated at 85 amps and is a three-terminal unit. It is always better to get a four-terminal unit. The 3-terminal solenoid connects the coil to ground through the steel case, and a connection to steel is always going to be less reliable than a wire connected to a proper terminal.

I would of course recommend a marine-rated unit and a suitable one is Cole-Hersee 24117-01, for a few dollars more. It is rated at 85 amps continuous, enough for extended charging, and at 750 amps make, enough for an engine start.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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fastjeff
#7 Posted : Friday, October 29, 2010 12:15:26 AM(UTC)
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Careful. You need a solenoid that is designed to stay energized, not just a momentary type like those used for a starter. I use an RV type that can stay on for hours without a problem. I also use a lighted toggle switch to operate it (which is nice for battery charging).

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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tundrarules
#8 Posted : Saturday, July 16, 2011 1:38:42 PM(UTC)
tundrarules

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Parallel switch is located in engine compartment looking fwd behind DC panel. Pull two screws out pull panel out and there she is. (for those that don't know)

Follow up.....Problem solved

Quote:
You might find that cleaning all the contacts (TIP: do not sand off the tinning!) it may still be ok... they are pretty darn tuff and rarely fail except for start Selanoids for some reason?

dave


Like Dave said...it is the contacts 90% of the time. Found ground for case corroded. Cleaned all contacts, put a little liquid electrical tape on them all...good to go! Applause

Been working on bigger projects lately and finally got to this item.

Corroded contacts Drool

Again, the battery parallel start system is a safety item. Check it every once in awhile. If you don't have anything to do one day Liar clean all the contacts on your parallel solenoid just to make sure it doesn't fail at a critical moment like docking in crosswind..etc Sick




BigM
1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL

RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
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