What happens when no one is on the bridge? Assume you mean listing to one side. Same side? Are the waves actually 2' - could they be higher and are you taking them on the beam or bow?

Are trim tabs set down too far? Max bow down can cause those kinds of problems. Bring them to their max up position and see what happens

I tried playing with the trim tabs. but I do not know if both of them were total up or down. With any waves, I won't go to the fly bridge because of the heeling. I would have thought that having the trim tabs down would make the bow go deeper into the waves and not heel as much. The boat is now out of the water for the winter, but when i put it back in the water in the Spring, I will try running the boat with the trim tabs up try to put more weight in the stern. I do know that I am used to a fiberglas boat and that since this boat is much lighter, that it is part of my problem. I do not know how far the boat heels - safely -so I am a little uncomforable with the heeling.
Thanks for your reply.
Tom

Tom

These are riverboats, not designed for the open water, imo. The hulls have good entry but run bow high. Most of running is done on relative flat bottom compared to deeper glass V hulls. The Marinette hull flattens out way too soon.
I find my self putting the bow down frequently to get more boat in the water and run more level. You can go too far and auger in but just have to mess with it. Its nearly impossible to tell trim on the bridge. Go below and run at cruise or a little below cruise and run the tabs all the way down and that all the way up and watch the bow rail to the horizon. Watch the tachs too. Look out the side windows and compare window sills to the horizon or and visible land.

Full tanks of fuel, I always trim the bow down.

You can make the boat role around while underway just by moving the wheel back and forth in a steady rhythm. Its easy to do with a bridged 32' if you want to play around and see how the boat heals (heel?).

Speed makes a difference. I have found at slower speeds the 32' can get into a pitching rhythm. Angle to the waves also makes a big difference. Sometimes you have to tack to avoid the rolling.

The good news is I have never heard of a Marinette rolling over. The biggest issue is the comfort factor. When on the bridge any movement will seem worse than down below.

This is my take on the 32 Sedan. A fine live aboard boat but a little squirrelly in the 2'+ water unless your banging right into it.

I can also say the 37' Sedans also heal over too, it just take more wave action to make it happen. The beam makes a big difference.

Just finished my 8th summer on the 32' and I really cant complain. Its comfortable for living but maybe not the best for traveling if you don't like the side to side movement.

-Karl

Tom..describe again what you mean by "heel". Do you mean list? And, does it do this when hit on the beam,.that is, hit from the side by rollers. If that is what you are decribing, sure the boat will roll. Weight on the bridge will accent that motion somewhat but its mostly the effect of the wave action (height and period/frequency of the waves) that will roll you side to side, a quite unpleasant motion. The corrective action is to take the waves at an angle. The other thing you may be describing is the M's tendency to wiggle (think big hula hula) in a following sea.
More description, please/thnx

Hello jralbert
When I say heeling, I also mean "listing" - rolling side to side. I guess I am not used to rolling as much as I do in the Marinette. Previously I had a fiberglass boat and I did not roll as much as this boat does and you are correct - if I am on the fly bridge, the rolling sensation is much worse. I was hoping someone had an idea of placing addtional weight somewhere is the bilge area to reduce the rolling. Tom

I don't know about adding more weight.. I'd have reservations.. In order to add enough to make any difference, you might cause some structural problems, like if you put a bunch of weight in the bilge area, and you start banging off some 3 or 4 footers, something is going to give, and it probably won't be good. You could keep the water tank in the bow full, that might help.. But I think the best thing to do is just to become more familiar with how she handles in all kinds of seas, and know what to expect. And how she handles in rough seas will be different with different throttle settings.. I mean two footers is hardly rough, so maybe you just don't like how it handles or feels, period. Take off the flybridge or test drive an express without one and see what you think. Any diff? There will be, but you still might not like what you get.. How is the weight in your boat distributed? Too much stuff on one side? All kinds of variables..And sometimes adding more weight will magnify the problem, instead of fixing it..

Sean

I used to have a boat with weight in the bilge: about 15,000 pounds of it. Sure was stable. Only went about 7 knots under power, tho.

My 32' is a little rolly in the wrong seas, but I figure it's a good tradeoff for the speed and economy.

We installed a Bennett TPI (trim tab indicator). Sure makes it nice to know where they are. Had to upgrade the actuator bodies to accommodate the position sensor rod. Bennett sent new actuator bodies for free.

http://www.bennetttrimta...lation_instructions.pdf

my 37 has been in 5-6 ft chop on the entrance to the Potomac. Never felt like it was going to roll. Stopped and slowed once but also ran near full out with crusaders.

I operate on a relatively small, shallow lake. When the weekend comes, the chop picks up in direct proportion to traffic, but doesn't cause the problem, it's rough but she doesn't feel like she's going to roll over.

Water moving basically up and down (chop, and rolling) cause the boat to follow the surface. Water that's being moved by wind (waves) over 10-15 knots push the stern unpredictably, and needs to be close-hauled for comfort on the bridge. When it's time to head home, a broad reach with enough speed is tolerable, but running is flat out scary.