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yooper
#1 Posted : Friday, November 05, 2010 8:06:38 AM(UTC)
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Some of the posts about replacing cracked windows suggest removing the track so the glass can be removed and cutting down new track so the glass can be removed without replacing the track again. Why can't I score the glass, bust it out and then replace it with a shorter window that I can tip in? Since I removed all the track stops I should be able to slide the glass panels clear.
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Docsnow
#2 Posted : Friday, November 05, 2010 8:33:58 AM(UTC)
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Yoop,

I think FastJeff did something like that but he used a plexaglass replacement Think

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fastjeff
#3 Posted : Friday, November 05, 2010 11:09:03 AM(UTC)
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Lexan! Plexiglass is crap.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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yooper
#4 Posted : Friday, November 05, 2010 11:46:54 AM(UTC)
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I'll check out Lexan. If I can find a similar tint and thickness it will look the same. Plan is to cut a piece of luan for a pattern. I don't know how to cut Lexan yet.
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dougrose
#5 Posted : Friday, November 05, 2010 1:41:09 PM(UTC)
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I have had good luck cutting lexan on a table saw with a fine-toothed carbide-tipped blade that is designed for laminated materials.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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paul bossman
#6 Posted : Saturday, February 05, 2011 12:19:28 AM(UTC)
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I just replaced every piece of glass on my 83M32 hardtop sedan. Here's what I learned: I ordered all new aluminum extrusions from John Althouse at Marinette, which required a lot of tricky cuts with a rotary carbide blade power saw, filing and fitting. If I had to do it over, I would have ordered all new vinyl track, which lasted thirty years or so, and can be cut with a lot less effort.

If the old track was goobered with silicone adhesive by a previous owner as mine was, just tape over the interior side, put on eye protection, grab a hammer and smash/push them out, and get it over with.

Take the old panes, even smashed (tape them up, they will retain their dimensions) to a window shop and order smoked safety glass replacements.
Take the entire windshields and sedan doors, so everything matches. They will regasket for you.

Once done, you will have clarity that various plastics can't offer, and the value of the boat will increase, as opposed to yet another botched job mismatched colors, with decreased value.

One last thing, after removing the old tracks, son't try to match the screwholes...just dab a good filler into the old holes and shoot new holes through the new track in similar locations.
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fastjeff
#7 Posted : Saturday, February 05, 2011 12:30:52 AM(UTC)
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Excellent advice. One minor addition: If you can't get a, say, starboard aft window out in one piece (to duplicate it) the port aft will do--they are symmetrical.

Jeff

PS: The Lexan has "yellowed" a bit over the years, and picked up some scratches, so I would not recommend Lexan for windows you regularly look out. In my case is was the port aft (Sedan) that's covering that angled post.

"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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jralbert
#8 Posted : Saturday, February 05, 2011 7:51:14 AM(UTC)
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One more note: John Althouse tipped us that cutting the height of the lower track (I think he suggested cutting it by half) will make future window removal painless. Just lift the glass up and over the track. Brilliant.

Meanwhile, I'm still a fan of the alum track having seens guy with disintegrating vinyl track (mostly on the sunny side of the boat) wrestly with that. Remember, those vinyl tracks will not be available forever, while the aluminum track will never have to be replaced.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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GB49
#9 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 1:29:07 AM(UTC)
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The original tracks were supposedly cut on a reversed 45 to allow water to run out but I think depends on who was doing the cutting that day. Its just not enough drain area. The water & dirt will collect in the track and override the inside track and dribble down the teak walls.

The new tracks should really have the very inside track the highest and ALL the other tracks lower but that's a manufacturing issue.
I suppose a table saw could cut all 3 tracks down but may be risky to cut that much off.

Another idea.
I think there are 4 tracks total (2 windows and 1 screen). If you just cut down all but the inner track just a little back from each end I think that may promote good drainage.

Looking top down. Inside cabin track remains longer.

_______________________________________
____________________glass__________
___________glass___________________
__________________screen __________

I know this does not help with removing the glass but I'm more concerned about water dribbling in a damaging the wood than I am about pulling glass.

That's my theory on the subject.
I may pull my windows this year and do this if I can find the energy.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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fastjeff
#10 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 1:50:04 AM(UTC)
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I drilled a 1/4 " hole at the corners of each track to let the water drain. Seems to work, but I have to flush the crud out now and then.


Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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GB49
#11 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 3:17:47 AM(UTC)
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I drilled holes too and they do get crudded up plus that darn nylon strip under the glass is cracking and little pieces make their way to the drain holes.

The other option I have considered is scrapping the tracks and permanently sealing the windows shut. Kind of defeats the purpose of having the big, open windows.
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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paul bossman
#12 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 5:46:15 AM(UTC)
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Hey, I could some help on a mysterious water leak into the cabin on my 83M32. Sometimes after a heavy rain, a lot of water comes out from under the port teak side wall to the left of the helm station, right where your feet are while driving. The only reason I haven't pulled the wall off yet, is I have a very rare factory-installed teak box helm seat with a big 48" wide helm seat -- fixed. Lots of screws and wires involved, here. The 110VAC power panel and VHF are under here, as well.
So, I wonder if any of you have had a leak that comes out in the same place, before I begin exploratory surgery in the spring.
This leak continued exactly the same afterI installed all new window track everywhere.
Paul Bossman
83M32
Catawba Island OH
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dougrose
#13 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 11:19:49 PM(UTC)
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My M has a pair of weep holes just under the windshield on either side to let water from the "dashboard" exit out of the cabin thru the cabin sides. Otherwise it puddles. My interior is different, so I can't say whether that is your problem.

I also made my own leak by installing a light pole above the windshield. I fixed that by recaulking it. You might want to look at every penetration of your saloon top. Any water that drips down onto the overhead runs down the cabin sides in unpredictable places.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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fastjeff
#14 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 12:07:52 AM(UTC)
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We had a "mystery" leak that--under really hard rain--would create a mini waterfall that descended near the galley. Took me years to find its source--I'm kinda slow. Water was coming in the windshield through (over, actually) rubber, over powering the side drain system, and overflowing down into the cabin roof. I first made a simple shield of aluminum foil to direct the water back overboard, then sealed the crack with Captain Tolley's Miracle Seal Sealer. Problem has NOT reappeared.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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