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Repairing pitted hull - best / most economic means to do so
BCassedy
#1 Posted : Saturday, November 06, 2010 6:00:34 AM(UTC)
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Seemed like yesterday was just one of those days. Had planned on pulling the boat out in order to change zincs / paint bottom / below water line work. Got more than I bargained for.

Boat has been in the water for at least 3 years. It was out for survey in the spring for a short time (shudda been longer - read on...).
Did a pressure wash of the hull in anticipation of next spring's painting project. Got a rude shock. Hull is (moderately) pitted. And it appears that the pitted areas had to have been seen, but someone (PO?) just painted over them!? The hull doesn't show any new pitting (ie. there's no discernible pitting sans paint) which is one good note <?>.

I've looked at the site for a/the process to repair the old pitting as I'd rather know the hull's not going to be breached and/or is in quality shape. Does someone have a link / directions / suggestions on how these areas can be repaired before bottom painting? Currently the boat's going to be on the hard on blocks at the marina (outside). Last resort (to repair) I guess would be to have someone trailer the boat to a facility and repair / paint there (many $$$ :-( ). I'm capable in handling the repair myself if this would be something able to be tackled by an owner. Or possibly a partial "do by owner"... Have someone repair the pitting and paint the bottom myself.

Ok.. floor's open... :-]

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Saturday, November 06, 2010 10:13:53 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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You're gonna hate me for saying this, but all of the boat paint has to come off. Better look into soda blasting (though sand is fine) since the EPA is raising hell about sand particles blowing about. (Like, they never been to a desert? Cripes!)

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

BCassedy
#3 Posted : Saturday, November 06, 2010 12:04:56 PM(UTC)
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Brick wall <-- closest icon to cryin'... "What, you've never seen a grown man cry??? You need to watch a boat owner! ".

Given the fact that the pitting is noticeable over most areas of the bottom (no sides corrosion noted), I agree that you're right. The pitting is not heavy but definitely "there". Be too hard to blast a spot here, an area there, etc. But with blasting taking the paint off (and thereby exposing the bare aluminum(?) which should be coated within hours from what I've read), what would the proces to follow be? How would the then exposed bare pitted areas be filled? And would the bottom then have to be reblasted in order to get a new exposure of the aluminum to start painting? That'd seem major costly!d'oh!

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
fastjeff
#4 Posted : Saturday, November 06, 2010 10:19:53 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Bill:

Those "minor pits" of yours are much worse than you think. Soon as the paint comes off, you'll see what I mean.

There's several write ups on painting the bottom (mine and some good ones) in our 'Library". Let me know if you need help.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Monday, November 08, 2010 1:39:32 AM(UTC)
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The comment that the pitting was not corrosion is false. Pitting is normally caused by galvanic corrosion or in some cases electrolyist. (There is a difference)

Anyway without doing a detailed inspection of the damaged areas to determin the extent and depth of the pits one should not proceed with cosmetic repairs. Most of us as kids stuck Bondo in large holes in our rusted cars and declared that they were restored! LOL

Things to consider.

1. Cause of pitting? If the cause is not treated then the solution will be temp. at best.
2. Large areas? Remove paint, epoxy barrier coat etc back to bare metal. This is an expensive process and soda blasting works well. (They are using it on alluminum houseboats in my area with excellent results)
3. Ok dept pits.. I would consult with an expert on best repair. Small welds on pits usually are very time cosuming and often build up too much heat and warp plates. This area of repair is best left to experts with experience and the right equipment.

4. Minor pitting can be filled with epoxy after proper etching etc. THIS IS NOT BONDO!!.

Often if there is pitting your may find more serious damage around rudder posts and on sharp edges of of the hull, and rudders.

I almost lost a boat once from galvanic corrosion which ate up the metal around a rudder post nearly sinking the boat. (steel Roamer)

After proper repair it is essential there is a complete application of multipule barrier coats prior to bottom paint.

Unless your boat is in a heated area.. this type of repair will have to wait for warmer weather.



dave
None
pfhlaw
#6 Posted : Monday, November 08, 2010 4:46:06 AM(UTC)
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If I read your post correctly, you have only pressure washed the bottom.
The "pitting" you see may not be pitting at all, but paint flaking and delamination.
Sand a small section down to bright metal to see what you are really dealing with.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
BCassedy
#7 Posted : Tuesday, November 09, 2010 5:03:19 AM(UTC)
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Oh, it only were that. I'll make test sandings to see what's what, although they sure look like pitting. But maybe the gods will smile on me this one time....

... well, they did that a couple of times before. Last time was when I found a BigM Marinette! :d/

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
fastjeff
#8 Posted : Tuesday, November 09, 2010 5:21:18 AM(UTC)
fastjeff

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I hope so, but... Mine looked like "minor" pitting as well until the paint came off.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#9 Posted : Tuesday, November 09, 2010 1:11:44 PM(UTC)
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Years ago I had my bottom wet-sandblasted, etched, coated with epoxy zinc chromate primer, coated twice with Primacon epoxy primer, then given two coats of Trilux 33. The bill came to $2500. It has lasted for five or six years now with just a coat of bottom paint each year.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
RCPRATHER
#10 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 9:36:09 AM(UTC)
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Bill,
I am sorry to hear about you haul issues. If possible could you post some pics? I am new to all this and would like to see the extent of the damage.
Thanks,
Rob
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
tundrarules
#11 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 10:48:13 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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This is not the original posters pics. This is not meant to hijack...just to show corrosion on the hull(and a little more).


RCPRATHER wrote:
Bill,
I am sorry to hear about you haul issues. If possible could you post some pics? I am new to all this and would like to see the extent of the damage.
Thanks,
Rob


Rob, (the guy that wanted to see corrosion)
Here's a few pics from my pull a few months ago. Plus a few more pics for you guys to feast your eyes on.

Notice the white popcorn corrosion just below the waterline. This is freshwater corrosion with 3 years unprotected from anodes (some bozo put sheet metel on instead of real anodes Eh? )

Link to my pics click here

FYI only Silenced



1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
RCPRATHER
#12 Posted : Wednesday, November 10, 2010 11:14:55 PM(UTC)
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Bill,
Thanks for the pics. You have a great looking boat!
"Great Escape"
32ft 1972 Express
Twin 318's
Located at LBYC
On the Ohio River at mile marker 480
Barkleydave
#13 Posted : Thursday, November 11, 2010 12:31:43 AM(UTC)
Barkleydave

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Great photos!

My 87 29 engines are 240 HP with Rochester Quadrajets.

It appears you are going to have to take her back to bare to get to the bottom of this pitting. (excuse the pun)

You may want to inspect the cutlass bearings also. It looks like there was may have been some activity in that area.

You may wish to start with a SS wire wheel and carefully strip it down along the waterline to get a better idea of the depth of the pitting. The the sharpe edges on chine etc looked pretty good from what I could tell in the photos.



:d/

dave
None
BCassedy
#14 Posted : Thursday, November 11, 2010 1:17:24 AM(UTC)
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May be a bit of confusion here guys...

The pics are from Tundrarules and not my boat. I'm going down to it this weekend to do the final jobs to put her up for the winter (pull topside cushions, pull batteries, and cover with a tarp (custom creation) as well as those things that'll doubtless come up). I'm going to take pics of what I believe is pitting when I get there and will post those pics ... probably Sunday.

The one thing I noticed, Tundra, is that you have/had active corrosion. During my power wash last Friday, I found (as I mentioned) what appears to be corrosion/pitting on the hull (bottomside, but not along the sides <below water line section>) which had been painted over. So, from what I've seen on this site's pics as a comparison, I don't have Pray any current active pitting. I just want to verify that what I have seen on my boat (it was overcast <wasn't the best light> and rainy) is old pitting which I'd like to repair as part of my planned bottom painting project (as time and environment allow).

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
ComputerJoe
#15 Posted : Thursday, November 11, 2010 1:41:46 AM(UTC)
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BCassedy wrote:
May be a bit of confusion here guys...The pics are from Tundrarules and not my boat.


Yep, I noticed your thread kinda got hijacked.

All my cast alu deck hardware is pitted as well. I was thinking about powder coating them but after talking to the powdercoat company I kinda figured I have to silver solder in the pits or live with the dimples. Was hoping that maybe another solution might turn up here.
tundrarules
#16 Posted : Thursday, November 11, 2010 3:08:50 AM(UTC)
tundrarules

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Sorry for the confusion guys. I didn't mean to hijack. I was just showing a pic of corrosion to Rob as he said he has never seen it before. I will edit my post to clear up the confusion. Silenced
1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
BCassedy
#17 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 2:11:49 PM(UTC)
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Have taken some pics of the damage I'm seeing as well as the anodes that the guy who surveyed the boat "suggested" that I'd want to change (ya think!?!?).
Pitting pics:
http://www.manhattanharb...e/BCassedy/GEDC0004.JPG

http://www.manhattanharb...e/BCassedy/GEDC0005.JPG

http://www.manhattanharb...e/BCassedy/GEDC0006.JPG

http://www.manhattanharb...e/BCassedy/GEDC0007.JPG

http://www.manhattanharb...e/BCassedy/GEDC0012.JPG

Anode pics:
Keel -
http://www.manhattanharb...e/BCassedy/GEDC0008.JPG
Trip tab -
http://www.manhattanharb...te/BCassedy/GEDC0009.JPG
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
jralbert
#18 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 4:33:51 PM(UTC)
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Hard to tell precisely from the pics, but the anodes seem to show fairly normal wear...(or are we looking at just some barnacles??) and I would not merely replace them and think the problem is resolved. If it's marine growth in the photos, changing to real anodes will help greatly.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
Docsnow
#19 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 8:26:28 PM(UTC)
Docsnow

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Bill,

I’d try cleaning the anodes with a S.S. wire brush on both sides & clean the contact areas were
they come contact with kee,trim tabs & rudder . Pitting of the anode is a good thing Dancing



http://i25.photobucket.c...enset/MyPictures653.jpg

Norm,

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http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

Some people try to turn back their odometers.Not me, I want people to know "why" I look this way.I've traveled a long way and some of the roads weren't paved.
BCassedy
#20 Posted : Thursday, November 18, 2010 11:55:07 PM(UTC)
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Joel,

Nope, not barnacles, just the anodes doin' their job. Due to the fact that anodes are doin' what they're supposed to do (as evidenced by the lack of new pitting), blasting the bottom, repairing the current pitted areas (the "HOW?" is the question of the moment), and painting the bottom in the precise correct manner would seem to be the way to go.

Norm,

I think that, as the anodes have been there at least 3 years (and maybe more), the cost of new ones won't break the bank (I'm still gettin' my metal detector for Jeff's backyard stash! Shhh ), and anode replacement was on my list of boat things to do, I'm going to replace them this year. I plan on doing a haul out next fall also and can check their condition (and clean them as you've shown).

Anybody make a suggestion on a really good "fairing" (fill in the pits) material? I know I'll need to blast the bottom (Harbor Freight's becoming my favorite place for boat maintenance schtuff), and etch the exposed area. But don't know what would be a quality fill material. Suggestions welcome!

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
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