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Non Boat Electrical Grouse
GB49
#1 Posted : Tuesday, December 28, 2010 12:42:57 PM(UTC)
GB49

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I must have fallen asleep in class during the part where they explained how to solder 12-2 residential wiring, wrap some tape around it and call it a day. And with the ball of tape there is no need for a junction box! Why didn't I ever think of that?

I wonder how much effort it took to solder and tape instead of getting a box and some nuts for a few bucks.

Sure wish I could live on the boat year round :(

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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jsimanella
#2 Posted : Tuesday, December 28, 2010 4:16:30 PM(UTC)
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Damn. You sound like a homeowner - did you buy a house???
--
1987 32 Sedan Bridge
Twin 360s, Rebuilt 2006
Modified/Original Electronic Ignition
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Catawba Island, Ohio
fastjeff
#4 Posted : Tuesday, December 28, 2010 9:46:37 PM(UTC)
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I hope you're not contemplating the use of house wire (single strand) in your boat?

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

GB49
#3 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 12:30:09 AM(UTC)
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jsimanella wrote:
Damn. You sound like a homeowner - did you buy a house???


Ya, I did something really crazy and bought a house.
Its actually in good shape just a couple bugaboos here and there.....so far.

Jeff,
Whats wrong with using single strand house wiring on the boat? If I solder all the connections and wrap lots of electrical tape I should be good, right? Brick wall

1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 2:18:46 AM(UTC)
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Solid copper THHN etc is for residential and commercial land applications.

Stranded copper is the only wire that should be used in marine applications. (Also required by USCG Standard and ABYC)

Reason: Stranded copper handles vibrations much better and will not break like solid wire in the marine environment.

Also; Stranded is much easier to run and makes tight turns thru and around bulkheads without fracturing the wire.


safe boating,

dave
None
BCassedy
#6 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 3:33:22 AM(UTC)
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Karl,

Soldering wires in a home enviroment will cause a couple of things:
1. A fire traced back to that point in the wiring (or as a cause of it), will result in the denial of an insurance claim.
2. Your local building code will be violated and could cause a problem with the sale of the home.

You definitely would want to make the connection using code approved methods:
- use a 2 x 3 utility box (for 2 or 3 romex cables entering the box - 4x4 if more than that) firmly attached
to a support of some sort (stud/joist) (with romex strain reliefs where the wire(s) enter the box.
- a "blank" cover over the face of the box.
- wire nuts appropriate for the wires being used (ie. number of wires and size - there's a limit each type of
nut can technically handle.)
--> These should be as snuggily tightened around the wires being connected as possible AND with
electricians tape wrapped around the nut and extending down to and around the wires being
connected.
- keep a means of access to the box in place. Drywalling over the box would be a no-no. You'd have to
have a door/panel so it can be accessed/inspected.

** Local codes might require other / different set up.

As to the boat, the vibration experienced in the boat can cause a failure of a soldered joint in a solid wire connection. I believe that it's also against marine code (and would also cause the insurance claim to go belly up).

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
pfhlaw
#7 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 6:11:51 AM(UTC)
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Gentlemen:
Karl is being facetious.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
tundrarules
#8 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 6:45:02 AM(UTC)
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They fell for it...hook, line, and sinker Applause

Looks like Karl ran across some shade tree electrical work in his new house Eh?

Way to keep us entertained during this boring winter Karl Applause


ps. My house was built in 1960. All the electrical connections are twisted together with electrical tape around the connection...thats all...no wire nuts back then I guess. Some have a crimp collar holding them together. I haven't put wire nuts on...I guess they've worked this long...so....



1985 Marinette 29 Sedan bridge
Twin 318s, 660 hours
New Edelbrock 1409 carbs (working like a charm)
Original Electronic Ignition, Blaster 2 coils, 90 deg plug wire universal kit cut to fit
Raw water system
Freshwater always
Located Pickwick Lake, TN,MS,AL


RETRO BOATS ARE COOL

If the guys on this forum take their time to help you, have the courtesy to update your thread with the resolution.
Barkleydave
#9 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 7:37:39 AM(UTC)
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HA HA Shame on you


Dave
None
mark klusman
#10 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 8:50:18 AM(UTC)
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I thought they only did work like here in Ten Mile. Must be related; branch kin ?
Mark
No matter where you go,there you are.
Knot Normal
28FT. Express
Twin 318's
Ten Mile Tn.




GB49
#11 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 1:09:05 PM(UTC)
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Yep, facetious is the word.
Its hard to relate humor in text. I guess thats what the little icon dudes are for. Brick wall

I also found the guy had run another outlet up to the garage from crawl space using the broken porcelain lamp holder and box as the junction point. He had 2 wires plus the outlet wires all soldered and then little soldered pigtails wound around the porcelain base. Oh and he had reversed and soldered the outlet wires. So black to white and white to black.
The outlet was so tight in the box I had to use my trusty bladed screw driver to encourage its separation from the wiring.
Now the outlet and the wiring is in the trash bag.
Problem solved.

If I find any other engineering marvels I will be sure to post.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
dougrose
#12 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 1:46:53 PM(UTC)
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I've been reading this thread in some puzzlement. Soldering wires is MUCH more trouble than terminating according to code. Why would anyone do it? And, we all should heed what Bill says about insurance companies denying claims if code is violated, for houses and boats both.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
GB49
#14 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 2:12:06 PM(UTC)
GB49

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No kidding on the insurance. I'm trying to get everything fixed asap.

I just wonder how many homes/cars/boats out there are violating some type of code(s).

I took a pic of the solder joint. Gotta pull it from phone. Will post tomorrow.

-K
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
dougrose
#15 Posted : Wednesday, December 29, 2010 2:28:08 PM(UTC)
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Insurance companies are really lax about inspecting the stuff they insure - for a boat, any old survey is enough, same for a house.

It's when there is a large claim that they will take the place apart and use a microscope to find violations, and disallow the claim if they find anything vaguely related.

I have a friend who uses my old house in Cape Canaveral as his car insurance address, to escape the much higher rates in West Palm Beach, where he lives. I keep telling him that, if he has a claim, it will be trivial for the insurance co. to prove that he doesn't live in Cape Canaveral, and pay nothing. But he keeps doing it.

I had another friend who investigated disability claims, usually about 18 months after they were granted. He would stake out and get some nice telephoto video of some "disabled" guy climbing a ladder to his roof with a box of shingles over his shoulder, and POOF there goes the disability pension. The insurance company paid him a percentage of what they saved. Enough for a house on the water, Mercedes, boat, vacations in Tahiti, and don't get me started on his wife....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
GB49
#16 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:46:15 AM(UTC)
GB49

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Before & after pics.
GB49 attached the following image(s):
GB49 attached the following image(s): Before.jpg
GB49 attached the following image(s): After.jpg
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
BCassedy
#17 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:51:56 AM(UTC)
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>> They fell for it...hook, line, and sinker

Good thing the "Admiral" got me a new tackle box for Christmas! (seriously!)

I stand corrected, er, slightly embarrased.... Sick
Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
Docsnow
#18 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 1:20:33 AM(UTC)
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From the Pix it looks to be a house wiring setup that accrued but if not & was a setup on a vessel wire nuts are a NO-NO a crimp type is needed that’s the only thing that the surveyor was able to find wrong on his inspection when I sold the O T M & they where on the speaker wires that do not carry any current I think Think

Norm,

Big BigMs Live On Applause
http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


 You'll have bad times, but they'll just wake you up to the good times you weren't paying attention to

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ComputerJoe
#13 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 10:02:41 AM(UTC)
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dougrose wrote:
I've been reading this thread in some puzzlement. Soldering wires is MUCH more trouble than terminating according to code. Why would anyone do it? And, we all should heed what Bill says about insurance companies denying claims if code is violated, for houses and boats both.


Soldering would create an electrical contact that water could not get into.
An old helo mechanic marine told me that soldering was not allowed for the same reasons mentioned above.
It seems that if the wires were properly supported that they would not be vibrating, but I'm sure the insurance company would not see it that way becasue here on page 29, paragraph 12 it says....

I hope that isn't boat wiring I'm looking at a few posts north.

Also MARINE stranded wire has more finer wires than house stranded wires.
GB49
#19 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:02:02 PM(UTC)
GB49

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As the title says this is non boat wiring. The photos are from my house crawl space.

All marine applications should use fine strand, tinned wire such as Anchor marine wire to allow for movement.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
Jack Marchand
#20 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:33:23 PM(UTC)
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Karl, as a master electrician. I'd say what you did was better than what you had, but.....The wire should stick out 6" out of the box and wire nuts work much better if they are twisted until the wire beyond the nut is twisted, also (this is what the inspectors look for). I find it easiest to use linemans pliers when doing #12 wire or larger wire, as it increases the amount of torque you can apply easily on it. Plus, make sure it has a cover on it when you're done, remember code is all about fire prevention. IT IS YOUR FRIEND! JAM
75 FB express, "Big Enough II" twin 318s, 950hrs, raw water cooling, 1 to 1 transmisions, Beautiful Lake Charlevoix, MI

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