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Non Boat Electrical Grouse
GB49
#21 Posted : Thursday, December 30, 2010 1:21:24 PM(UTC)
GB49

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Jack Marchand wrote:
Karl, as a master electrician. I'd say what you did was better than what you had, but.....The wire should stick out 6" out of the box and wire nuts work much better if they are twisted until the wire beyond the nut is twisted, also (this is what the inspectors look for). I find it easiest to use linemans pliers when doing #12 wire or larger wire, as it increases the amount of torque you can apply easily on it. Plus, make sure it has a cover on it when you're done, remember code is all about fire prevention. IT IS YOUR FRIEND! JAM



Jam,

Unfortunately there was not enough slack to give 6" of wire. The only way I could get more wire is to install a 2nd junction box and add some extra wire for the initial box.
I did use my linemans pliers to twist the copper ends before nutting them. I will re-twist the wires to make them twisted beyond the nut. Someone else mentioned wrapping tape around each nut. Is that code or just a recommendation?

I did install a cover which, for some reason cost more than the box. I find that interesting.

It may not be perfect but I think its much safer for me and the house.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
BCassedy
#23 Posted : Friday, December 31, 2010 1:28:59 AM(UTC)
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>> Someone else mentioned wrapping tape around each nut. Is that code or just a recommendation?

T'was I on the tape thing. I don't know that it's a code requirement, just an electricians' "being extra carefull" concept: If there should have been a (hot) wire that was stripped a little long, and after twisting the wire nut was finished, a section of that wire was still slightly exposed beyond the wire nut cap (which may not have been visible in the twist), the tape was added as a precaution. This protected someone from shorting against that exposed bit of wire should they not have shut off the electric and were twisting/pulling the wires out of the box and a ground wire touched the exposed hot wire.

It also keeps the wires bundled together should that twist not have been as good as it should've been and one of the wires pull away and find itself close to the wire nut cap of the opposing wire group.

At least what you've got now is gonna mean that when some one says " what's that burning smell? " it won't mean the house, but possibly the roast in the oven!

Bill
Bill & Sharon Cassedy
" Sunset Seeker "
1988 32' Fly Bridge
Twin 318 Cu In / 240HP Chrysler power plants
Raw water cooling
Freshwater boat
Jack Marchand
#24 Posted : Friday, December 31, 2010 1:29:58 AM(UTC)
Jack Marchand

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Karl, I was quoting the NEC (nation elect. code) and yes what you did is better than a lot of stuff you find out there. Tape while adding 600v protection with each wrap, if not a good quality tape (I use scotch 33 indoors and 88 outdoors) will fall off with time (it gets hard and brittle and water will attack the tapes adhesive) and should not be concidered a fail safe. I have however when all else is just not feasable added tape to a joint where I had exposed copper outside the nut to ensure an insulator encapsulation on what I'm working on. Adding a second box in my opinion would be a great alternative and staple all wires entering a box within 6 in. of the box to stop wire pulling on the conection within the box. All boxes have to be accessable, too. Romex is also not marine acceptable, even tho it came installed in our older boats. JAM
75 FB express, "Big Enough II" twin 318s, 950hrs, raw water cooling, 1 to 1 transmisions, Beautiful Lake Charlevoix, MI

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