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Aft deck bimini
Joe Knockwafel
#1 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 12:30:34 PM(UTC)
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This springs project is to redo the rear bimini. The one in the pics is one I got off a rinker and rigged it on. The pics make it look better than it is. I thought about a hard top of some style. The bimini bounces to much. And it holds water. Any ideas? Joe
1988 32 sfb 318s 240 hp 1.5 355 hours .Black and white. Hutton interior package. "TIME OUT" Tartans Landing. Goshen KY
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Joe Knockwafel
#2 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 12:41:52 PM(UTC)
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Joe Knockwafel wrote:
This springs project is to redo the rear bimini. The one in the pics is one I got off a rinker and rigged it on. The pics make it look better than it is. I thought about a hard top of some style. The bimini bounces to much. And it holds water. Any ideas? Joe
Ican't get the pics to work. There is something wrong !!!!! I had the pic down to 17kb Joe
1988 32 sfb 318s 240 hp 1.5 355 hours .Black and white. Hutton interior package. "TIME OUT" Tartans Landing. Goshen KY
fastjeff
#3 Posted : Thursday, January 13, 2011 9:55:50 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

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Having photo posting trouble myself.

Way back when we had a 28 foot Bayiner, the wife wanted me to fiberglass the Bimini top that was canvas and getting a bit old. (I was building fiberglas kit cars at the time.) We sold that boat and bought our Marinette instead. If I had kept it, however, I WOULD have glassed it, and here's how it would have been done:

1. Stretch the canvas tight as possible, using cardboard under the canvas to make the low spots level as possible.

2. Mask off where it connects to the boat, mainly the windshield in this case.

3. Staple both sides of the canvas to wood strips, to make them a straight line.

4. Lay on a thin coat of glass using 3/4 oz matt and let that cure.

5. Lay on two layers of 1.5 oz matt, let cure, then add two thick coats of white gelcoat.

6. Let all that cure for two weeks, to harden it thoroughly.

7. Remove the new 'hard top' and sand it smooth as possible, followed by more coats of white gelcoat until it's right.

Fastening the hardtop to the boat would require some ingenuity. I would have used sheet metal screws at the windshield, and 'U' clips at each of the stainless hoops (bolting them through the 'glass top). The side curtains would be attached with screwed-in snaps, like you see on the other end of the curtains.

All-in-all a challenging project, but it could be done. Toughest part would be reaching the center of the 'part' while laying it all up.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 1:20:27 AM(UTC)
Barkleydave

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Jeff:

I am trying to get a mental picture of this bimmi? If done correct way.. it could turn out looking like an awning on a 50's vintage mobile home? Think

Just kidding.. Cabin fever is setting in!

dave
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jralbert
#4 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 6:34:35 AM(UTC)
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Fastjeff wrote:
Having photo posting trouble myself.Jeff
Me, too. Will contact Joe Howard (our site founder) for a fix-it consultation
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
Jack Marchand
#6 Posted : Friday, January 14, 2011 7:52:12 AM(UTC)
Jack Marchand

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Joe, I have read that some of the guys from this site said that the bimini top offered by Mr. Althouse might be a tad on the flimsy side, that being said, I'd check out a local canvas guy and have him custom make you one. talk to the guys at your marina, usually they know who to go to and who to avoid. JAM
75 FB express, "Big Enough II" twin 318s, 950hrs, raw water cooling, 1 to 1 transmisions, Beautiful Lake Charlevoix, MI

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