Here's my two cents (what my advice is usually worth):
1) The city water line coming into a houseboat is what size? 1" diam or 1/2"? I plan on using a pressure regulator and a check valve (is that a good idea?) then have the line go into a manifold which will re-direct the smaller water lines out to other faucets. I will of course use an internal clean water tank for long excursions which will have to integrate in with the system.
The connections I've seen use a standard water hose that is 1/2 " ID. A pressure regulator is ALWAYS a good idea--some marinas have astronomically high water pressure to get enough of it to the many slips. Don't use the internal tank for drinking water unless you thoroughly clean it out and sanitize it (and I still wouldn't use it! We carry fresh water with us for that purpose.)
2) How is venting of the bilge and inside done? using a blower to get air OUT or such clean air IN?
There are forward facing ducts that shove air in as you go along. The blowers (two) pull it out and should be left on at all times. Be sure to check the hoses on those blowers: Mine had fallen off the outlet grill and were merely recirculating the fumes!
3)I'm going with a propane hot water heater (propane locker on a shelf/bracket off the stern of boat--OUTSIDE of the boat) any ideas on good companies that make a marine grade propane hot water heater?
Don't know anything about them. Sorry. The wife claims that enough heat remains in the electrically heated tank for a shower next morning. Me? I freeze to death!
You'll find that Marinettes have few vices: No rotting wooden framing, no split and leaking deck to hull joints, etc. The CAPAC meter needs to function properly, and YOU need to maintain the anodes in the .90 to 1.2 volt range.
Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell