logo
Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Need help: 1969 RiverCruiser 34'LOA
Roger
#1 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 3:34:54 PM(UTC)
Rank: Member - Wooden Star

Groups: Member
Joined: 2/3/2011(UTC)
Posts: 21
Points: 53

Thanks: 4 times
I finally got a computer which has finally allowed me to hopefully get in touch with someone who can give any suggestions to some questions related to a complete houseboat rebuild (which I am 4 years into already.) First off, is this the best category "general" to ask about mechanical or technical things? A few questions that I've had for a long time but cannot find anyone to answer it is: 1) The city water line coming into a houseboat is what size? 1" diam or 1/2"? I plan on using a pressure regulator and a check valve (is that a good idea?) then have the line go into a manifold which will re-direct the smaller water lines out to other faucets.
I will of course use an internal clean water tank for long excursions which will have to integrate in with the system. 2) How is venting of the bilge and inside done? using a blower to get air OUT or such clean air IN? 3)I'm going with a propane hot water heater (propane locker on a shelf/bracket off the stern of boat--OUTSIDE of the boat) any ideas on good companies that make a marine grade propane hot water heater? I hope to soon put together a place to view pictures of progress and what's been done. Welding and buying aluminum has been costly, but I hope a good weight saving investment.
Sponsor
Please Register : To weed out spammers, new members may not post until approved. An email is usually sent after approval. This forum is for Marinette Owners and other aluminum boat boaters who wish to share boating information. Aluminum Roamer owners are also welcome. (Do not post content you do not have the right to post and mass (robots) posters are unwelcome. We also have a marine electronics page and lots of Chrysler Engine info. State by what permission you copy content and give credit properly.) The site is now fixed with some more Chrysler information. We have space for pictures on the new location. Use shinkpic to autochange size http://www.onthegosoft.com/sp_download.htm

Great Sites - http://www.marinette.com Marinette Company

http://web.me.com/dougmrose/Doug_Roses_Website/Welcome.html

http://fastjeff.tripod.com/ Repair Tricks and Techniques for Marinettes

http://www.greatlakesmarinetteclub.com/

PLEASE post in the appropriate folder. Please, do not post your actual email address in publicly readable websites. The first rule is be a class act.

fastjeff
#2 Posted : Sunday, February 06, 2011 11:58:30 PM(UTC)
fastjeff

Rank: Administration

Medals: aluminum star: For Marinette Owners Everywhere above the call of duty

Groups: Admin2, Admin2, Admin, Administration, Member
Joined: 12/5/2007(UTC)
Posts: 3,133
Points: 5,732

Was thanked: 34 time(s) in 30 post(s)
Here's my two cents (what my advice is usually worth):

1) The city water line coming into a houseboat is what size? 1" diam or 1/2"? I plan on using a pressure regulator and a check valve (is that a good idea?) then have the line go into a manifold which will re-direct the smaller water lines out to other faucets. I will of course use an internal clean water tank for long excursions which will have to integrate in with the system.

The connections I've seen use a standard water hose that is 1/2 " ID. A pressure regulator is ALWAYS a good idea--some marinas have astronomically high water pressure to get enough of it to the many slips. Don't use the internal tank for drinking water unless you thoroughly clean it out and sanitize it (and I still wouldn't use it! We carry fresh water with us for that purpose.)


2) How is venting of the bilge and inside done? using a blower to get air OUT or such clean air IN?


There are forward facing ducts that shove air in as you go along. The blowers (two) pull it out and should be left on at all times. Be sure to check the hoses on those blowers: Mine had fallen off the outlet grill and were merely recirculating the fumes!


3)I'm going with a propane hot water heater (propane locker on a shelf/bracket off the stern of boat--OUTSIDE of the boat) any ideas on good companies that make a marine grade propane hot water heater?

Don't know anything about them. Sorry. The wife claims that enough heat remains in the electrically heated tank for a shower next morning. Me? I freeze to death!

You'll find that Marinettes have few vices: No rotting wooden framing, no split and leaking deck to hull joints, etc. The CAPAC meter needs to function properly, and YOU need to maintain the anodes in the .90 to 1.2 volt range.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dougrose
#3 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 12:04:37 AM(UTC)
dougrose

Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member, Administration, Admin
Joined: 12/7/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,332
Points: 1,746

Was thanked: 25 time(s) in 21 post(s)
How lucky you are to be living in the shadow of Mt. Dora (highest peak in the Florida Alps). My boat is over on the coast.

I have purchased two boats through the years that sank because they filled with fresh water from a shore hose connection. The pressure reducer is a must. And a handy shutoff valve that you can close when you leave the boat. Don't fool around with this, city pressure through a garden hose will keep ahead of most bilge pumps. The manifold is a great idea. Put a gate valve or ball valve on each output so that you can turn off one faucet at a time for service. Boy, I wish I had done that.

If you have propane, you have no need to store hot water. You can use an on-demand (tankless) water heater like the ones made by Bosch and countless japanese companies. My mother used a Paloma tankless for many years in her home, until forced to put in an inferior and bulky electric one by the archaic US building codes. You can mount a tankless outside the cabin if you wish. Most tankless heaters need a little ac for ignition, so you might need a small inverter if you buy a "house" one.

My M and most boats have scoops on deck with lightweight hoses (normally 3" or 4") running down into the bilge. I imagine this would work OK on a houseboat.

This forum has categories for engine, interior, electrical, and so forth. It is handy if you get the right one. But, most of us follow the whole forum so no big deal.....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
yooper
#4 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 1:30:50 AM(UTC)
Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member
Joined: 12/9/2007(UTC)
Posts: 378
Points: 785

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 16 time(s) in 16 post(s)
I used PEX tubing and push on fittings to hook up my water heater. That stuff is great and you can get ready made manifolds. All you need is a tube cutter and you are a plumber.
jralbert
#5 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 3:49:19 AM(UTC)
Rank: Administration

Groups: Admin, Administration
Joined: 12/4/2007(UTC)
Posts: 1,117
Points: 665

Was thanked: 12 time(s) in 12 post(s)
I would re-think the propane idea even if you plan to install the tank outside the boat. An electrical heater is safer. At anchor, if you don't have a generator to power the electric, with a simple heat exchanger, you can run the engine for a short time and get lots of (very) hot water which stays hot, as Jeff points out, for a long time. We have never had to use the electric element.

I would also amend Doug's posting slightly to say use a handy shutoff valve that you MUST close (instead of "can" close) when you leave the boat. And shut off the city water at the dock. Doug is absolutely on mark as you read the Boat US damage claims reports about boats that sink because the city/fresh water inlets have leaked.

Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
Roger
#6 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 5:08:43 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member - Wooden Star

Groups: Member
Joined: 2/3/2011(UTC)
Posts: 21
Points: 53

Thanks: 4 times
Wow, I guess people do respond to these forums! Thanks so much for a wealth of advice (plus the 2 cents:-) Computers are a wonder, but I have a lot to learn...as I do with this project houseboat I got myself into. I've though long and hard about going with propane for heating water. The main reason for propane is due to my boat being located away from an electrical source maybe for long periods of time. I have the propane in a custom made aluminum locker box that is to hang off the back (on a shelf-like bracket.) I also have another shelf/bracket on the other side of the stern/transom which is where the generator is to be located inside another enclosure special made for the generator. I wish I had found this forum earlier. I am leaning towards the Pex tube and fittings along with the manifold diverter. My question about the venting is so I can get those in there so I can start "drying in" the boat and get it rain proofed and hopefully start the process of getting it painted and finally in the water (it has been on keel blocks since 2007 when I got it.)
trontek
#7 Posted : Monday, February 07, 2011 7:53:36 AM(UTC)
trontek

Rank: Marinette Royal Aluminum Poster (300+) posts

Groups: Member
Joined: 10/17/2008(UTC)
Posts: 340
Points: 265

Thanks: 2 times
Was thanked: 3 time(s) in 3 post(s)
Home Depot, or one of the stores, sells a water valve that will auto shut off dock water when it reaches your preset number of gallons you want aboard. I do not have one as yet. They were around $15.00 at the time I checked them....
Jim

Roger
#8 Posted : Tuesday, February 08, 2011 6:38:02 AM(UTC)
Rank: Member - Wooden Star

Groups: Member
Joined: 2/3/2011(UTC)
Posts: 21
Points: 53

Thanks: 4 times
I think I saw those regulators at Home Depot. I also saw what looked like the Pex tubing connectors/fittings. I will compare the specs on what those fittings are made from. I may over kill it and go with a stronger material since it cannot fail or break. About the vents though, I have: 2 bow area vents, a vent on each side of the superstructure, and 4 vents for the engine room/area. Note: I have no engine in there since I've gone with an outboard (it is to be a storage area.) Do the side vents and 3" vent tubing just hang down into the bilge or does it have to be on some powered vent blower? I may have the engine bay vents on a blower.
The vents that were in there before had a plastic ring that fit inside the hole. That ring is what held the clam-shaped vent in there, and there was a venting tube that looked like dryer duct about 3 or 4" diam. (but those vent tubes were long deteriorated away.) The problem is: that plastic ring in no way waterproofs the vent hole area. The plastic ring has weathered and warped. My brother does drafting on auto-CAD and soon I may ask him to draw up a good rendering of what I intend to do as well as pictures, but where do I send them for viewing?
etnprop
#9 Posted : Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:24:57 AM(UTC)
Rank: New Poster

Groups: Member
Joined: 11/10/2009(UTC)
Posts: 5
Points: 15

since you went outboard you might consider relocating the fuel tank outside like your propane/water heater setup and eliminate worry of venting the former engine compartment as well as creating additional space there. depends on range/fuel requirements
Users browsing this topic
guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF 1.9.5.5 | YAF © 2003-2011, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.106 seconds.