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prop shaft strut
boyermike
#1 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 7:26:58 AM(UTC)
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1967 32 hardtop.
I have a crack in the prop shaft strut bearing housing. I would like to weld repair the crack. What metal and alloy is used in OEM struts.
By removing the bearing, following some simple welding principles the repair could be easily done in place... Right???
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GB49
#2 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 7:36:15 AM(UTC)
GB49

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Good luck removing the bearing with the shaft in place. Unless you mean to remove the shaft first and then the bearing and then weld with the strut still bolted to the hull...
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
Barkleydave
#3 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 7:40:22 AM(UTC)
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One method I used:

Remove Prop
Unbolt Strut
Slide strut off shaft
Press Cutless bearing out
Repair strut or replace
Install new bearing
Install strut and prop and away ya go.

None
Docsnow
#4 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 8:51:59 AM(UTC)
Docsnow

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Mike,

First off Welcome to the BigM Site Dancing Glad to have U aboard Applause


No matter which way U decide to repair the strut on or off the boat be Sure U find bothends of the crack & drill 1/8" hole at each end other wise the crack will continue as U weld it. One other thing it’ll B a lot easier to work on it off the boat It’d b ideal if U could get it sandblasted so U can see any spider webbing that may have occurred. Just my ½ penny’s worth Think

Norm,

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boyermike
#5 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 1:31:12 PM(UTC)
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Thanks for the tips. I see your speaking from experience. But what type of metal is it made from? I will need to weld it with the proper weld filler material.
Docsnow
#6 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 2:17:26 PM(UTC)
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Mike,

The struts R made out of aluminum seeing they R cast not sure if the grade is the same as the hull is Think

Norm,

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dougrose
#7 Posted : Thursday, February 17, 2011 11:20:00 PM(UTC)
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I just replaced a strut (I think I wrote it up for the forum) and my advice would be to remove the strut, which is not that hard, and take it to a shop where it can be welded and annealed properly. It is very hard to get a decent weld when you have to work upside down or sideways, and a lot cheaper anyway if it is done in the shop.

Removing the strut requires taking out 8 bolts, four in each pad, and working it down the shaft. Prop has to come off (duh) and the rudder linkage must be disconnected. Someone has to hold the nuts from inside while someone else removes the bolts. I used 316 machine screws and 316 nylon locknuts, with washers, in place of the original hardware.

The new strut that I put on is a welded assembly composed of two mounting pads, the strut arms, and a cylinder to take the bearing. It ran about $700 from John A. It should be no big deal to have it welded.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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