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jhall767
#1 Posted : Tuesday, March 08, 2011 7:05:45 AM(UTC)
jhall767

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Anybody used this stuff yet? It seems like all the major manufactures have a product out this year. Last year I used Pettit Alumacoat (not econea base). This year Pettit has Ultima Eco out (still selling alumacoat). Interlux has Pacifica plus. The Econea based paints are suitable for aluminum hulls because they don't contain any copper. Also being touted for fiberglass boats.

I don't know if this stuff is any better than the current stuff or just "greener"

John
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fastjeff
#2 Posted : Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:12:48 AM(UTC)
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The copper-based stuff is being legislated out of existence, hence the new crop of "green" AF paints. That's good for us since most of them will be aluminum safe.

I'm sticking with Trilux, however, for it's a proven product. A cheaper, Brand X product might not adhere properly, and I'd hate to find out it doesn't!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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jhall767
#3 Posted : Wednesday, March 09, 2011 12:38:42 AM(UTC)
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My buddy was in Annapolis yesterday for a paint conference. Interlux/Awlgrip was doing a presentation. He's a painting contractor. The conference was for contractors and marinas Interlux is saying this stuff is better than the trilux. I talked to him again this morning. Apparently this stuff was used on a lot of the pontoon boats in the Delaware last year. They have a ton of them over there. The stuff has only been around for a year or two. The marina owners he talked to said it worked better than the Trilux. Looks like the Pacifica Plus ($180 West Marine) is a little cheaper than the Trilux ($230). Pettit Ultima Eco looks to be around $200. Looks like it's new this year. I've been using Pettit alumacoat Sr which is actually a little cheaper than all of the above. So price really isn't an issue.

If nothing else maybe I'll see if I can get a free sample and do part of the boat with it. Or maybe put a different paint on each side of the boat and see which way it turns when I let go of the wheel :)

John
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jralbert
#4 Posted : Wednesday, March 09, 2011 3:47:12 AM(UTC)
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John is correct... the only way to test mfr claims is to do your own test (or we do it as a group). And do the test again periodically because mfr's change their formulas without notice. For example, once 'pon a time I experimented with ePaint and found it did a better job than Trilux. Painted each side of the boat with different brands. Later, did another test with a dunked strip of aluminum and found the trilux to be far superior - a really noticeable difference. So I switched back to Trilux. Last year, I didn't use the boat much and expected there to be a huge accumulaton of barnacles because the hot weather was favorable for them and the boat just sat with not much "scrubbing off" through use. The barnacles were so few, the marina only lightly pressure-washed the bottom so I could see how well the paint performed. This spring, I scraped them off in about 15 minutes.

So, Trilux it is (for now). Keep testing.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
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Docsnow
#5 Posted : Wednesday, March 09, 2011 6:00:25 AM(UTC)
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Here a part of what Pettit Eco A/F paint recommends to apply their product over P P S to read all google Pettit Eco it’s extremely long

Mix paint thoroughly to ensure toxicants are evenly dispersed throughout the can. All
surfaces must be clean, dry and properly prepared prior to painting.
Previously Painted Surfaces: If the previous coating is in good condition, thoroughly sand with 80 grit paper then
solvent clean with 120 Brushing Thinner to
remove residue. Apply two finish coats of Ultima Eco. If the previous coating is soft or in poor condition, remove
to the bare surface by sanding or using a paint &
varnish remover. Proceed with appropriate bare system as described below. Old tin copolymers must be removed
or sealed with 6627 Tie-Coat Primer before
applying Ultima Eco. When sanding old bottom paint, always wet sand and take precautions against getting the
material in your eyes, nostrils, open cuts, etc.

Bare Aluminum: Sandblast to clean, bright metal and remove blasting residue with clean, dry compressed air or
a clean brush. Immediately apply three coats of
Pettit 4400/4401 Aluma Protect Epoxy Primer followed by two finish coats of this product. Read and follow carefully
the instructions on the Pettit 4400/4401 Aluma
Protect Epoxy Primer label. If the surface to be painted is smooth aluminum, apply one coat of 6455/044 Metal
Primer and allow to dry for 2 hours, then apply two
finish coats of this product. Read and follow carefully the instructions for application and top-coating on the
6455/044 primer label.


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jhall767
#6 Posted : Friday, March 11, 2011 12:20:21 AM(UTC)
jhall767

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Somebody sent me a link to a study.

http://tinyurl.com/48gfkdx

Looks promising. Of course it is not an independent study...
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fastjeff
#7 Posted : Friday, March 11, 2011 1:52:21 AM(UTC)
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Good to hear from you again, John. Hope your Striker is running fine!

I didn't see any aluminum hulls in that study, but I assume that paint is aluminum safe, being non-copper containing.

With copper-based AF being legislated out of existence, more AL-safe paints will appear, and that has to drive the ridiculous prices down. I mean. $200 a gallon? Gimme a break!


Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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jhall767
#8 Posted : Friday, March 11, 2011 9:51:59 AM(UTC)
jhall767

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Fastjeff wrote:
Good to hear from you again, John. Hope your Striker is running fine!

I didn't see any aluminum hulls in that study, but I assume that paint is aluminum safe, being non-copper containing.

With copper-based AF being legislated out of existence, more AL-safe paints will appear, and that has to drive the ridiculous prices down. I mean. $200 a gallon? Gimme a break!


Jeff


All boat projects have been on hold for honey-do projects around the house. After this weekend I'll be able to get started on the boat!

Hope to see you out there this year!
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