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keeling time
#1 Posted : Friday, April 29, 2011 4:18:48 PM(UTC)
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Does anyone have a good recommendation (brand,type, etc) for a fuel/water separator kit?
Also, will one kit suffice or is two needed - one for each engine?

Thanks,
Keeling Time
1981 32' BigM FB Sedan - twin 318's
Keeling Time
1981 32' Marinette Sedan FB
Fresh Water
Twin 318's
Pertronix distributors
Edelbrock 1409's
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Barkleydave
#2 Posted : Friday, April 29, 2011 6:19:07 PM(UTC)
Barkleydave

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Sierra makes a good one and replacement canisters are easy to find.

Also Mallaroy has one now which is USCG approved for inboards which has a drain plub to drain water from the unit.
Much more expensive and IMO I would go with the Sierra. It is easy to unscrew a canister and check it for water.

http://www.wholesalemari...&utm_campaign=right

Here is Mallaroy:

http://www.wholesalemari...&utm_campaign=right

Safe Boating,

dave
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Domino
#3 Posted : Friday, April 29, 2011 7:07:43 PM(UTC)
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you need two....
Domino is on the hard @ Pier 500 Marina, Wyandotte, Michigan
** 67 32' Express
** Ford 302's
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jralbert
#4 Posted : Friday, April 29, 2011 10:19:16 PM(UTC)
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Racor is another brand choice. Make sure you get the one rated for inboards (they have the required metal bowls).
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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Docsnow
#5 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 2:42:47 AM(UTC)
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I'll try to post a pix or 2 Think Shhh don't let anyone know I don't know how to down size pix if it doesn't work. Well as U can C it didn't work Shhh
AnyWho Brick wall back to the drawing board arrrr must B that hooked hand enabling to down size Pix

Norm,

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http://www.picturetrail.com/gid23690601 Try it now there's music to listen to while U view the Big M's

http://www.PictureTrail..../index.php?clubID=20726 this one for the Pix club


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yooper
#6 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 9:08:38 AM(UTC)
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You need one separator for each tank. I had mine replaced with modern canister types on my project 28' because the old brass separators were frozen and I couldn't inspect the filter element. I was unhappy with the job. The factory installation was clean. All metal tubing until it reached the engine. Then it was marine grade rubber hose into the fuel pump. From the fuel pump to the carburator was metal tubing. They cut the old separators out with a hack saw and hooked the new ones in with short pieces of old fuel hose. The did not flare the new joints. They cut into the metal tube to the carburator and put in a canister type filter with two short rubber tubes. Again rough cuts no flaring. The little screen on the carburator inlet was missing and we could not find a replacement. The result was a real messy and probably unsafe job. On my project 32' I am keeping the factory setup. On this boat I can take the brass separators apart to inspect them and the little carburator screens are in place.
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Barkleydave
#7 Posted : Saturday, April 30, 2011 11:10:38 AM(UTC)
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Straight cut copper tubing installations are very common. They do however fail to meet minimum USCG/AYBC mfg. specifications.

A regular flare fitting that is flare to rubber hose, is not acceptable because it has sharp edges. A roll over reverse flare is the best but difficult to find the tool to do it.

For most of us adapting the carb fitting and inlest side of the copper fuel line to a brass barbed fitting is the best way and approved method of installation. Using double clamped USCG A-1 alcohol resistant fuel line and away you go.

I am still using the orginal setup and have had no problems with the Perko seperators. I will probably change out the metal threaded canisters since they are getting hard to find and some are having issue with leaking filters.

I have found than too many times some marinas fail to maintain a standard following UCSG/ABYC minimum standards, and take short cuts that can create unsafe operating conditions.



safe boating,

dave
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yooper
#8 Posted : Monday, May 02, 2011 1:56:58 PM(UTC)
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I just don't like the hacked up result on my 28' fuel line. If I change it out I would probably use all marine grade rubber fuel line. On my 32' my instinct is to leave the original setup alone.
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Barkleydave
#9 Posted : Monday, May 02, 2011 4:08:29 PM(UTC)
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Yopper that is why I have resisted making changes.

If one looks at most inboards the original setups are often:

Metalic fuel line from tank to seperators.......metalic line from seperator forward to shut off ball valve. A-1 Rubber from valve..to fuel pump. (for vibration protection.) Metalic from pump output to filter (or no filter) and metalic to carb inlet.

The engineering justifcation for this type of install is fire resistance. (metalic on top of the intake manifold)

In case of a small leak and resulting fire the fire will not burn through the fuel line spilling more fuel for the fire.

While this is true.. there is a question how much fuel would pump after the line burnt through? Actually quite a bit it takes at least 30 seconds for an engine at idle to run dry all the while pumping additional fuel onto the fire.

I have had one metalic canister fuel filter leak and I have heard of a couple returned this year due to a mfg. problem with the threads so the flare fitting does not seat. I posted the federal requirements for fuel lines some time back.

Now some of the racing reienforced fuel lines would work great but I do not know if any are USCG approved. They would resist abration very well.



safe boating,
dave

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jhemp3
#10 Posted : Monday, May 02, 2011 6:11:27 PM(UTC)
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I replaced both originals with Sierra screw-on canisters. Work really well. I change the canisters at the beginning of each cruising season... Whether they need it or not.
Jim
Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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keeling time
#11 Posted : Tuesday, May 03, 2011 9:25:19 AM(UTC)
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Jhemp3 - which Sierra model/kit did you use?
thanks,
Keeling Time
Keeling Time
1981 32' Marinette Sedan FB
Fresh Water
Twin 318's
Pertronix distributors
Edelbrock 1409's
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jhemp3
#12 Posted : Tuesday, May 03, 2011 9:03:47 PM(UTC)
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I'm sorry keeling time, I don't keep as good of records as most of these guys do but I looked at the Sierra kits on Amazon and here's the kit that looks like the one I chose.
Sierra International 18-7775-1 3/8" Marine Aluminum Fuel Water Separator Kit
They mounted in the same place that the originals mounted and I don't recall them being a real problem to connect and I'm not a great mechanic. Just make sure they don't leak. My boat is 3 hours away or I would take a look at them and tell you how I made the connections. My understanding is that Sierra has universal filters now with clear bottoms so you can observe water collecting in the filter bottoms. They may even have drains to eliminate water accumilations without changing filters. I've never had serious fuel/water problems, except when leaving the gas tank filler caps off while washing the boat, so I didn't opt for the optional features. The best fuel/water solution for me is "Seafoam". Get it at any auto supply; it works.
Jim
Jim Hemphill
Detour
'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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pfhlaw
#13 Posted : Wednesday, May 04, 2011 9:44:04 AM(UTC)
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Coast Guard regs still require an all metal canister or bowl if mounted below deck. The clear bowls can only be used if mounted above deck.

Sierra does make an all metal bowl separator with a drain feature.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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