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RiverRatt
#1 Posted : Friday, May 13, 2011 7:22:26 AM(UTC)
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I am going to have to replace the valve cover gaskets on my starboard motor. I would have to be the far starboard one on the starboard side. It’s never the one that is easy to reach.

Does anyone have a preference type or brand of gaskets? I am not a big fan of the standard cork type.


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jhemp3
#2 Posted : Friday, May 13, 2011 8:12:46 PM(UTC)
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I had my starboard engine replaced and I found, when first checking the oil, that the mechanic put the oil fill valve cover on the outboard side of the engine. Bad news. The job changing the covers wad really bad. I guess silicon or some other adhesive was used to seal the covers. I hope your experience will be better than mine.
Jim
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jralbert
#3 Posted : Friday, May 13, 2011 10:09:23 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jhemp3 Go to Quoted Post
the mechanic put the oil fill valve cover on the outboard side of the engine.
WE must have had the same mechanic. When I swapped engines some yrs ago, he put the dipstick on the outboard side...then shot me one of those "looks" when I made him put it in the right place.
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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jhemp3
#4 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 10:47:36 AM(UTC)
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For a while, I added oil through the PVC valve opening.
Jim
Jim Hemphill
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'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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tr_guy79
#5 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 1:01:57 PM(UTC)
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I have always had good luck with Felpro Permadry gaskets. Only ones I use at the shop (when available)
"McKenna Renee"
1972 '32 FB Express. Twin 318 / Edelbrock 1409s
Chesapeake City Md (Upper Bay / C&D Canal)
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Jack Marchand
#6 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 1:31:36 PM(UTC)
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What I'm asking myself is why did it fail? Internal pressure? Bad ring? Bad PCV valve? Hopefully the latter....JAM
75 FB express, "Big Enough II" twin 318s, 950hrs, raw water cooling, 1 to 1 transmisions, Beautiful Lake Charlevoix, MI
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jc000
#7 Posted : Saturday, May 14, 2011 3:27:20 PM(UTC)
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I have had my 28 single three years no oil use. On a 1000 mile trip last summer used a little about half way, the next tank used 1/2 quart, next tank one quart. Took the door off the front of engine and could see oil coming from valve cover on starbord side.

The screws were loose. After securing the screws the leak stopped but had a real mess in bilge. I did not use the boat much after this so hope this problem is fixed.

Good luck

John
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RiverRatt
#8 Posted : Monday, May 16, 2011 3:20:49 PM(UTC)
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I crawled around and made a closer inspection and found the valve cover is not leaking on the starboard engine. I determined it is the front seal.Brick wall I am going to have to have a word with the mechanic that put it in. Oh that would be me!!!

Now I am going to have to pull the front cover, and all that is involved.
"The is no dumb-ass vaccine" - Jimmy Buffet
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fastjeff
#9 Posted : Monday, May 16, 2011 6:48:11 PM(UTC)
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The valve cover bolts tend to loosen over time. Common. Are you sure the front seal is leaking and not thefuel pump gasket?

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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RiverRatt
#10 Posted : Tuesday, May 17, 2011 9:32:16 AM(UTC)
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Jeff,
I am almost certian that it is the front main. The oil slung under water pump and other places. The port engine fuel pump gasket is leaking a little though.

When looking up a replacemt seal it is listed a Bi-rotational seal for obvious reasons. I wonder if the gasket kit I received with the rebuild engine had a Bi-Rotational seal or did it have a standard one?

Robert
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fastjeff
#11 Posted : Wednesday, May 18, 2011 6:29:24 AM(UTC)
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Pretty sure the rear main seal is the only one that is different. The front seal is a simple lip-type seal.

Before ripping the motor down, you might try an old outboard motor trick for removing seals in place: Drill a series of 1/8 " holes in the metal body, insert sheet metal screws, and gently pull on one at a time. If the seal comes out you only have to tap in a new one. And if the shaft is grooved where the lip rides, be sure to first insert a plastic spacer washer (cut from sheet material) that will space the seal out a 1/16 " so it will ride on a good shaft area.

Jeff

PS: If you remove the timing cover. make a diagram of it first and label every damn bolt that comes out! Take your time and don't omit this step or you'll go nuts trying to get the right bolt back where it belongs.
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell
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