Need help

I finally recieved my new Pertronix D241801 distributors.

However...when I installed the new distributor on my port engine, the rotor button does not point to #1 cylinder (or my marks). The new distributor rotor button points to either the 2 o'clock position or 180 degrees the other way (if you take it out and install 180 the other way). I double checked to ensure that #1 cylinder was TDC and it is. I then put the new distributor back in and it does not point to TDC #1.... only the two o'clock position or 180 degrees the other way.

I thought I may have ordered the wrong distributor however I am pretty sure I did order the correct one - Pertronix D241801 which states it is for the 318 Chrysler engine. Part numbers on distributors are correct too.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated.

Also what's the correct wiring setup for these distributors.

Out of frustration - I put the original distributor back in.....

Any and all help is appreciated.

1981 32' FB Sedan
Twin 318 Chryslers

Agreed. Just put the wires in the cap where the rotor points and set them up from there--the motor won't care. Be sure to make a note where # 1 is now for timing the motor.

Jeff

There is no "red and black" wires goin to the igniton system dpwn there. I attached a dwg of the Mopar system that might help.

Jeff

PS: There's a 12 volt hot all the time lead that goes to the ballast resistor AND the ECU.

I dont remember exactly but I think you remove the ballast resistor and join all wires together . I did get rid of mine the less wires the better .As far as I 'm concerned good riddens to the ballast resistor one less thin to trouble shoot.
I haven't had any ignition issues since the new distributors. Pertronix has a good websight for wiring suggestions.
Bob

Step 12 and 13 from pertronix directions.

Check all leads that you disconnect make sure none of them are hot.Some of the wires from the ballast will not attach to anything so I removed them completely I also removed the control module follow all disconnected wires remove the ones not used make sure no hot wires are left open! Two of these wires go to the tach I don't remember which ones (maybe purple to yellow?) this is the only wires needed to make the tach work. The 12 volt hot wire hooks to the red wire from the new distributor. I removed all wires that I possibly could this cleans up engine compartment .All splices I made with (solder n seal terminals) just heat them with a heat gun they solder and water proof the splice at the same time some auto stores stock them Graingers also sells them.
Hope this helps
Bob



12. If converting from a point type ignition, remove any resistance wire, or
ballast resistor that may have been previously used. If a resistance wire is present: replace the wire with a 12-gauge copper stranded wire. Most resistance wires begin at the engine compartment side of the fuse block. If a ballast resistor is present: remove the wires attached to both sides of the resistor. Connect all of the wires removed together at a single point. Isolate the connection from any grounds. Plug the Ignition switch wire into the position marked BAT on the distributor cap.
13. If a tachometer is used, connect the tachometer wire into the position marked TACH on the distributor cap.

I just finished installing my pertronix this weekend. Sounds like you have a good handle on it with all the information here.

1. Like the guys here said, all you need to do is note the current positon of the rotor button. Install the new distributor so that the rotor button falls as close to the position you noted. Now as long as you install the new cap so that it fires the same cylinder as the old one did, you are in business. Hopefully your plug wires are long enough to reach with the new cap position. (our distributors rotate clockwise...both of them)

(you do not need it to be #1 cyl like the directions say)

2. Wiring....This one stalled me for awhile...I hooked up just like I removed them.. no worky! The reason it didn't work...I only had 9.7 volts coming to the coil...NEW ELECTRONIC DISTRIBUTORS WILL NOT WORK WITH LESS THAN 12 VOLTS AT THE COIL! The reason I only had 9.7 volts is the ballast resistor was reducing the voltage (didn't think I had a ballast resistor installed because I never could find it before...it was hidden under voltage regulator)....I put two and two together...thanks to Jeff You must get 12+ volts at the coil and you must bypass the electronic control....

All I did is cut hot wire to ballast resistor and butt spliced in wire directly to coil.(purple wire for port, purple/yellow for stbd)..two cuts, one splice, that bypasses resistor and ecu all at once.... Walla 12.4 volts at coil...hit ignition...bam she fired right up!

3. Set timing at 5 deg btdc, install red limiters (limits advance to 20 deg)and you should be getting about 25 total advance with factory springs.
These videos will help you get your head wrapped around it a little more.

Call me anytime and I will talk you through it while you are at the boat... Check your PM for my phone number...Call me don't be shy. I would love to help, as many of the guys on here have helped me.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a2X9mSSlQY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHX1yXVyIMg&feature=related

Your boat is a 1981 and you have points...I don't so your wiring may differ...enjoy

The Pertronix are factory set with springs that will give you 24 deg advance at 3500 rpms. That means that you will have a total of 29 degree advance...a little too much.

Also you need to get the total advance in a bit earlier, 2500 to be exact...you should be hitting 25 deg total advance.

With that being said you should be able to set initial base at 5 deg btdc with your basic timing light and just use the chart for the advance. I can tell you the chart is dead on because I used an advance timing light. I left the original springs on without a limiter. Right now I have 5 deg + 24 = 29 deg. Like I said, our engines need to have total advance of 25 in by 2500 rpms.


http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/flame/dist/billet_marine.aspx

Per the instruction chart below looks like we should install the red advance limiter and use silver springs or the copper springs. This silver ones will give us 21 total at 2500, 23 total at 2850, 25 total at 3000. They come in a little slow (4 deg short at 2500) not sure it that's an issue..We may need to use a combination of silver and copper springs...not sure at this point.

Directions for install http://www.pertronix.com/support/manuals/pdf/billet.pdf

Bottom line is, if you just install the red limiters with the springs that are factory installed, you will be ok. Since I have an advance timing light I will see if I can figure out the correct spring combo for us. I will let you know what that combo is...may be a few months before I can get the results to you.

Anyone...what is the best curve for our boats?

5 BTDC initial

RPMS
1000 10 total advance
1500 19 total
2000 25 total limit reached
This comes in quick with all in at 2000rpms

or

1000 0 total
1500 8
2000 15
2500 19
3000 25 limit reached
This looks to be a little short coming in, 22 at 2850..reaches 25 at 3000 a little late.

Looks like we need something in between

What do you guys think 1st or 2nd curve best? or in between? Look at pdf instructions if you need.

Special thanks to all the guys on this site that helped me out.

Keeling time call me...

Both distributors installed and timed and purring nicely. Now if I can eliminate the stall at 2500 rpm. Sounds like similar problem others are having. After a closer look see, I found that both carbs are Edelbrock's 1405's. Yikes! Replaced with 1409's. Waiting to install fuel/water separators before firing her up again. Not user friendly when trying to locate a good place for the water/fuel separators. I'm thiking the aft bulkhead between the engines and fuel tank with lots of USCG approved fuel hose. Thoughts?

I hope these fixes resolves the 2500 rpm stall. The stall = port engine backfiring through the carb and quitting...

Starving for fuel?
Water in fuel?
Both?

Will have a look see next weekend.

Big thanks to fastjeff for the input on the timing pointers!

Haven't fired her up yet with the 1409's installed. Going to mount the fuel/water separators first - just forward of the fuel tank on a piece of marine plywood mounted between the uprights. I have to purchase about 26' (total)of new USCG approved fuel line for both engines running it to and from the separators - from the fuel tank supply line to the separator, from the separator to the fuel pump....

The more I think about it, I am also going to remove the fuel sending unit from the fuel tank and extract as much water as possible. Since water is heavier than fuel, I will insert a tube to the bottom of the fuel tank and pull off all the water and gunk I can until I hit liquid gold. I am sure water has collected. I filled up end of last season and added a stabilizer but I'm sure water has collected anyway.

I am privy to intrinsically safe pumps so I may just pump the tank completely and strain what comes out into a couple of 55 gallon drums in the very near future.

All work and no play is making me the joke of the docks.............

Jeff, I put on new 1409 carbs and I'm still using the 1985 perko bowls. Some on this site say that the Perkos work fine (could be the reason I'm having carb problems now , who knows).

Looks like the Perkos wouldn't hold much water though. Don't you think I could still run the Perkos?


Keeling Time, what is the your total cost for filter install? $300 would be a good ball park





.