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Thru-hull spacer needed
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Roger
#1 Posted : Wednesday, June 01, 2011 9:32:01 AM(UTC)
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I'm going with Maeleron thru hull fittings for drains. Threaded male thru-hulls screwed onto female elbows curved up so as to create a "hard-line" extending above the water line. Check out this site so to see what I'm talking about:
http://s1216.photobucket...t%20certain%20pictures/
The first question is: #1) notice that the nut only screws on so far and there is a gap so the nut will not tightly fit against my relatively thin aluminum hull. I need a washer-like material to take up the space, any suggestions? I was thinking like a composite wood or that poly-board polypropelene plastic (will 5200 stick to that though?) Or I can use aluminum?
#2) how should I prepare the surface to install the thru-hulls? I assume sand away the paint and seal with 5200? I hear some say to use bedding compound, what is that like a primer? Or is that the sealant that makes it water tight? Any quick thoughts would be appreciated.
Roger from Mt. Dora, FL
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pfhlaw
#2 Posted : Wednesday, June 01, 2011 10:58:04 AM(UTC)
pfhlaw

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I suggest avoiding composite wood. It's made with sawdust and can swell if immersed long enough.
I found a small poly cutting board at a Dollar Store. It was about 1/4" to 5/16" thick and I cut
out the spacer I needed for my through hull. I used 4200 (not 5200) and it looks like it
sticks just fine after 5 years.
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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Roger on 6/2/2011(UTC)
GB49
#3 Posted : Wednesday, June 01, 2011 12:51:45 PM(UTC)
GB49

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I've use Plasteak for transducer fairing blocks in the past. Never had any problems.
http://www.plasteak.com

Starboard is also good stuff. I made some antenna stand offs about 10 yrs ago. Still holding strong today.
http://kingplastic.com/p...-family/king-starboard/

-Karl

1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
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1 user thanked GB49 for this useful post.
Roger on 6/2/2011(UTC)
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