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How do I wire a one wire alternator?
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75 Express
#1 Posted : Friday, June 17, 2011 10:30:40 PM(UTC)
75 Express

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Any one have a schematic on how to replace old alternator with a one wire type??
thanks
Stan
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rv
#2 Posted : Saturday, June 18, 2011 4:32:42 AM(UTC)
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remove wires from alternator and regulator I believe one wire from the regulator is 12 volts don't leave any live wires exposed. I don't have a schematic but this job is not to difficult.
Light house marine has replacement one wire alternators in stock. If I remember around 160.00. The hook up is simple. I used heavy marine grade wire #6, wired the hot through the battery switch.
#6 wire from back of alternator directly to negative side of battery to insure a good ground. Just remember these alternators wont charge until you reach 1000 rpms.
Bob
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jhemp3
#3 Posted : Saturday, June 18, 2011 7:41:32 AM(UTC)
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Be sure and install proper fusing. I used an In-line 60 amp blade fuse between the alternator and battery.
Jim
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dougrose
#4 Posted : Sunday, June 19, 2011 7:07:53 AM(UTC)
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You can wire the alternator output directly from the output stud to a fuse holder mounted on the engine or inline the wire, and from the other end of the fuse to the hot side of the start relay, since it connects back to the battery with a heavy wire. #6 wire is rated for 102 Amps, so an 80 Amp fuse is probably appropriate ( see http://web.me.com/dougmr...Website/Wire_Sizes.html ) and the wire should be orange ( see http://web.me.com/dougmr...ebsite/Color_Codes.html ).

Be sure to wire from the alternator frame (there is usually a threaded stud connected to the frame) to the engine block, preferably where the negative wire from the battery connects, with the same size wire in yellow. You should not trust the connection provided by the mounting brackets, at least around salt water.

I don't think this adds anything to what rv said but it does have more words.

There is an issue with the battery switch. If you wire directly to the battery, no problem. If you wire to the solenoid hot side and you have a battery switch between it and the battery, then a conventional alternator can produce voltage spikes if the battery switch is opened. The one-wire units really don't have this problem, since they regulate themselves, but it is still a good idea to leave the battery switch closed when the engine is running.

I am working on a generic schematic for this and will post it soon. I know I like to work with schematics, my mind works that way.....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Sunday, June 19, 2011 9:20:48 AM(UTC)
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Pretty much covers it. One point I wired mine with #6 through blade fuse directly to the battery. By avoiding th switch if will not effect the alternator if the switch is accidently turned off. Going to the hot side of the relay is doing the same thing.

dave
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fastjeff
#6 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 5:41:18 AM(UTC)
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The power source to that old voltage regulator is mighty handy when/ if you go with Edelbrocks; I used mine to power the electric choke.

Jeff
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75 Express
#7 Posted : Monday, June 20, 2011 9:12:40 PM(UTC)
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Thanks everyone, this will make a great thread for future readers. Looking forward to the schematic Doug. I too think that way, as I was an airline avionics mechanic.
Stan
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pfhlaw
#8 Posted : Tuesday, June 21, 2011 10:03:48 AM(UTC)
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For the record, one-wire alternators will not work with diode battery combiners.
The diode combiner prevents the alternator from sensing the battery voltage.
I learned this the hard way.
Peter
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twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
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Home port: New Buffalo, MI
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dougrose
#9 Posted : Tuesday, June 21, 2011 9:00:33 PM(UTC)
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Use the relay kind, victron makes a nice one for less than $50. Hamilton Marine or Jamestown Distributors.

I have noticed two problems with the one-wire alternators using diode splitters:

First, there is a voltage drop of half a volt or so across the diode, so you get 13.7 Volts instead of 14.2 Volts of charge.

Second, the alternator needs voltage on its output terminal to get started, after which it runs fine. This can be fixed by putting a small diode from the ignition (purple) to the output terminal, cathode toward the alternator. This provides power for the internal voltage regulator when the ignition switch is turned on, so the alternator can run.

Next trip to the boat I am getting rid of diodes and all that hockey puck and do it right.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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dougrose
#10 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 2:50:46 PM(UTC)
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I have posted a blurb on primary wiring on my website at http://web.me.com/dougmr...iring_from_Scratch.html

Perhaps it will provide some answers. Sorry to have taken so long....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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dougrose
#11 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 2:50:48 PM(UTC)
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I have posted a blurb on primary wiring on my website at http://web.me.com/dougmr...iring_from_Scratch.html

Perhaps it will provide some answers. Sorry to have taken so long....


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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1 user thanked dougrose for this useful post.
Bill on 7/1/2011(UTC)
jhemp3
#12 Posted : Wednesday, June 29, 2011 5:05:55 PM(UTC)
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Wow, a schematic that even I can follow. Great work, Doug.
Thanks
Jim
Jim Hemphill
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'87 32' FBS, USCG Certification #1057921
Berthed MM 207 Tennessee River, Picwick State Park Marina
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trontek
#13 Posted : Thursday, June 30, 2011 2:20:10 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: jhemp3 Go to Quoted Post
Wow, a schematic that even I can follow. Great work, Doug.
Thanks
Jim


Not a schematic but a wiring diagram - albeit a very good one that even makes sense to me....Whistle


Jim

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