I painted the top of the bow seat this weekend. The paint had loosened under the pads and I figured the area would be a good place to try the RO. I sanded with 180/220, cleaned well and painted.with a soft brush. Rolling/tipping would be better but I wasn't as prepared as I should have been. From my level of painting experience, poor, the job went really well and I'm very pleased. The top coat might have been easier to smooth if I had thinned it slightly. Some of you real painters could make it look professional. The Oyster White matches our Marinette off white closely. Don't know how it will hold up but It might be worth a try if you are considering DIY paint job or touch-up.
Jim

Bill, I found two construction welds when sanding. I think they could increase the failure rate of the original paint. Yes, they result in two "pie plate" or larger loose spots in the paint.
Jim

Thanks for the info. I posted that I was going to try the rust-oleum marine products but for various reasons went with Briteside at four times the cost. The biggest reason was a closer color match to existing painted areas. When I finish the 32' project I still have to put paint on a 28' sedan. I may try the rust-oleum for that. I have the marine etching primer and topside paint. It will all depend on how well it rolls and tips compared to Briteside. We are spot painting bare aluminum with the etching primer. Be clear that we are talking about the rust-oleum marine paints - not the old rusty metal fish oil paint.

Yes, Yoop, the paint I used was the marine type.
Jim

Well the cabin area painting went well. The owner of the yard blocked out 4 hours and took over the final coat. My rookie helper was to roll and he was to tip. I was relegated to preping and taping the cockpit area so I didn't see the whole thing but it would have made a great video. First he thinned the paint more that we did on the first coat. We were afraid of runs. He wanted time to do over any part he didn't like. His instructions to the helper were calm and constant. Many times he had him do an area over and work the roller both ways. He made adjustments on the fly and if he didn't like the result they did it over. Our sticky mix on the first coat didn't allow this and as a result we had to sand a lot of mistakes off. On the big roof area in front of the windshield we were only going to roll it with a long handled brush because we didn't want to climb on the area to be painted. He just climbed up on the deck in his stocking feet. He rolled and tipped the curve under the windshield himself. Then he blocked the area off into about six rough squares. The helper rolled one square ahead of him as he tipped off each section in turn. Who knew this was allowed? They did the cabin sides at the same time. Lesson - if the deck is clean and your clothes are clean you can climb on a deck to paint it. There is an art to it all. He showed the helper row to roll without slopping paint over an edge. I wish he showed him for the first coat. The results are good and I am keeping them - no wet sanding or buffing is planned, If we did a better job on the first coat the results would have been better. I stayed with high gloss and this brings out waves and imperfections in the hull anyway. My previously painted flybridge and side cowls are more of a satin finish slightly off in shade. I don't care. I want to get in the water and I know enough now to change stuff later. Go for it Jim.

I visited Detour for the first time since the reported painting experience. It's been six weeks or so and I'm happy to report that spider poo was easily removed and I continue to be impressed, if I say so myself, with the Rustolium. The biggest surprise is how closely the Oyster White matches my Marinette white. I believe spot painting will be very acceptable. Again, roll and tip and a 10% thinning (as directed) would give a more satisfactory surface. This was a great weekend to anchor out and enjoy.
Jim