We have started our attack on the deck railing and hardware removal. Everything must go to facilitate sanding and painting

One of the improvements I made on mine was at the bitt post: To allow the anchor line to go back in easier, I enlarged the hole in the deck with a sabersaw and ground out the hole in hte post to the maximum possible. Made a huge difference when stuffing the line back in.

Jeff

Today was a good day. GOT THE AFT CLEATS OFF! I was able to reach thru the bilge vent holes to spray some PB Blaster on the screws and nuts. Used the cordless while putting pressure on the screw head. Cool.

Picture gallery: http://s277.photobucket....L%20PAINT%20JOB%202008/

Don't forget to put some goop on the screw threads before you reinstall everything.

If the hardware has not been removed since the factory you should have noticed a little bit of caulk on the end of the screw threads.

I can only guess that bit of goop helps seal the screw hole, preventing water from getting between the paint and Aluminum at that very tiny area.
I failed to do that after repainting and have a couple bow flanges that are slightly bubbling.

The flanges also need to drain.

The weep holes on the flanges are worthless. I clamped 2 bottoms together and ran the drill press through the existing weep holes to make them bigger. That worked ok but the gasket material gets pressed up into the holes and they will eventually plug.
I ended up using nylon washers in place of the gasket material. Works great, cant really tell unless you look hard and I can use the hose to rinse the mud out from under the entire flange.
They have been under there for 2 - 3yrs. Still tight as monkeys fist.

-Karl

Removed the port side weld seam's fairing today. Using the trusty air chistle. Sure makes a mess. Pictures soon!

I used 1/16 inch acetal cut into 2.75 inch diameter disks under the rail stanchions. I sealed the acetal disks to the boat using lifecaulk silicone sealant. Then, i used Tefgel (available from Sailor's Solutions) to coat the stainless screws before installing them. I used the acetal because it is hard plastic that will not absorb any water, has zero conductance to avoid galvanic effects, and does not mush up into the bottom of the rail stanchion to block drainage. I used the Lifecaulk sealant because it is not an acetic acid cure silicone - acetic acid cure silicones create a long term corrosion problem on aluminum because they create a conductive and corrosive acetate salt over time. Lastly, I used the Tefgel based on advice from Broward Yachts and Pluckebaum Yachts. It really slows down the stainless screw -- aluminum corrosion setup.

Look for Delrin - it is Dupont's version of acetal. I bought mine from US Platics Corporation

What type/kind? Aluminum with Zinc Yellow Chromate Plated?

From McMaster-Carr: To maximize strength and minimize corrosion, use rivets made of the same material as the pieces you are fastening. When an exact match isn't possible, choose rivets that are painted or coated.
Rivet Material - Stainless Steel, Steel, or Aluminum
Rivet Finish - Zinc Yellow Chromate Plated or plain

I used McMaster Part Number: 94020A364 which is a 3/8" - 16 thread for the swim platform ladder. Four of them are mounted through 1/2" holes in the swim platform, and the ladder is bolted on with 316 ss bolts. I could have used nuts underneath, but it is a lot easier to work on, especially in the water, when you don't have to reach under the platform blind to hold the nuts. The rivnuts have no special protection, they didn't seem to need it. I think that this is because they are made from a soft material so that they will deform, and this puts them close to the Marinette alloy. I use the 1/4" nuts to mount seats and for similar uses, without problems. It is nice to be able to take out my flybridge seat without having to take down the overhead in the saloon.

McMaster sells a nice tool for these, but they can be installed with a bolt, a nut and washer, and a pair of wrenches.