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Complete repaint,step by step.
Galliresto
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 07, 2011 9:24:56 PM(UTC)
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My first posting in this forum. Doing a complete tear down and repaint of a 28 Express. The hull is badly corroded in several places and I will document the repairs with lots of pics and explaining. Will also repair or replace a few things on the boat so she can go back in the water with confidence. I am using System Three products exclusively so we'll see if the hype is true. Any comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated. First things first so i need to figure out how to post pics on this forum.
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Galliresto
#2 Posted : Thursday, September 08, 2011 10:38:15 AM(UTC)
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Her first day home from the boat yard. The hull was supposed to have been sand blasted and primed.A decent bottom job was supposed to have been done. We will see. This beautiful vessel is owned by a good buddy of mine. After four months of sitting in a local boat yard, without a lot of progress being made, we decided to bring it to my place where she can get the attention that she deserves. In the pictures that follow, you can see what to look for in a good paint job. You can also see what happens if you don't take the time to properly care for these boats.

http://s1228.photobucket...amp;current=IMAG0011.jpg
Galliresto
#3 Posted : Thursday, September 08, 2011 10:58:16 AM(UTC)
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Not encouraging. I figured that the guys at the yard were pretty shady. A weak and limp handshake says a lot about a man. Started poking around and after removing the spray rail.........

http://s1228.photobucket...amp;current=IMAG0015.jpg
75 Express
#4 Posted : Thursday, September 08, 2011 8:57:01 PM(UTC)
75 Express

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Thanks for posting the pics! I too am in the middle of a total restoration and will begin painting soon. I was going with the interlux and have not heard of system three. I look forward to seeing the progress
Stan
Galliresto
#5 Posted : Friday, September 09, 2011 10:46:51 AM(UTC)
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Gettin down to the nitty gritty. Had to chop the old stiff hose that runs to the fuel . filler cap. Gonna have to find some more. Will probably have to do the same for the water tank too.

Let me know if using the link to facebook pics work. I dont really care for photobucket but I will continue to use it for a while.


http://www.facebook.com/...;notif_t=group_activity

dougrose
#6 Posted : Friday, September 09, 2011 11:45:55 AM(UTC)
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Facebook requires a login to get to the pictures. I do not have one, and don't want one. I don't want facebook to even know that I exist. Pretty boat, I believe that my 28' was a lot nicer looking than my 32'. I gave up a lot for four feet. You will love her.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
Galliresto
#7 Posted : Friday, September 09, 2011 5:54:20 PM(UTC)
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True. Didn't think about the login. Well here are some more photobucket pics. Guess I'm gonna have to cough up some money and get the pro account.
So many things should have been removed from this boat that were not. Several paint jobs were done where everything was just masked off. The "pros" at the yard somehow got the idea that somehow it is ok to roll on primer above the waterline. Its hard to fathom taking someone's money after making their boat look like cottage cheese.

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0020.jpg

Here is the cold hard truth behind one of the aft cleats. The others arent as bad but its obvious that this is the first time that they have been off the boat since she was new.

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0021.jpg

Dint realize it till I saw the factory brochure, but the window frames were supposed to be polished aluminum. Not only did the PO paint em, but they screw holes are filled in as well. No way paint till ever stick to them. Removal and stripping then polishing is the only real .solution unless you want to disassemble them and powder coat, which I don't. Most every screw on this boat has been filled with paint. Little time with a sharp ice pick will get em clean so they don't strip

http://s1228.photobucket...amp;current=IMAG0021.jpg
dougrose
#9 Posted : Friday, September 09, 2011 8:17:16 PM(UTC)
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Most of what you show there is pretty familiar. I guess you will have to sand or wire-brush to get down to either sound paint, or bare metal. Don't forget to etch the metal. FastJeff has a technique for deck fittings: He drills out the bad holes and installs rivnuts, then uses a machine screw to replace the fitting. This has worked well for me. I installed a folding ladder onto the swim platform, and chocks for the (heavy) dingy, using rivnuts and they worked fine. You can get them at http://www.mcmaster.com/#rivet-nuts/=dzsbhg

The best thing about rivet nuts is that all the work is "on top", no one has to go underneath to hold a nut. I install them with a large rivet gun, but you can use a machine screw and a couple of nuts. I put sealer on them before putting them in, and then wipe off the excess. No leaks. If you get stainless flathead socket capscrews for the fittings, it looks awesome.


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
yooper
#10 Posted : Sunday, September 11, 2011 9:24:32 AM(UTC)
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I am trying to finish a paint job on my project 32'. It had the original paint with a lot of pinholes and cracks. I am not a good source for information except for what not to do. I will only say this. Test all materiel you are going to use before putting it on the boat. You can prep outside. You should paint the boat inside where you have some control over temp and humidity. I lost my rented building when the yard changed locations and have been working outside ever since. I have a 28' project boat also which is inside but 45 miles away. I will never try to paint outside again. I'll sell the boat first.
1 user thanked yooper for this useful post.
Bill on 9/11/2011(UTC)
Galliresto
#11 Posted : Wednesday, September 14, 2011 4:35:18 PM(UTC)
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More progress. I removed all the trim panels from the inside of the cockpit area. Preppin it for the removal of the hard top

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0024.jpg

Also removing the wood trim from around the door.

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0048.jpg
http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0049.jpg

Here is the hardtop, removed and sanded with 36 grit then 140 , 220, etc

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0059.jpg

All the wood trim pieces from around the inside of the window must be removed. the screws are on the outside. This was done after I removed the window track.

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0066.jpg

After the window trim is off you can try the panel out a bit and get the cleat that is right outside the port window.

http://s1228.photobucket...mp;current=IMAG0067.jpg

Ok so about painting outside. Humidity and temperature are always a concern. I have worked for Trinity Yachts, for almost five years before going back to college in 2010,as an aluminum welder and systems analyst. Trinity builds mega-yachts in the 160-200 ft range. I assure you that there is no temperature or humidity control when painting a boat that big. Thats why I'm using System Three products. Water-born epoxies lend themselves to such environments. and I assure you that a Trinity paint job is as smooth as any glass boat you've ever seen. They did pitch a scaffold supported tent for particle control and at the end of the day, Id take painting inside any day if I could. So I am hopeful it will work out just fine. (crossing fingers)
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