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Condensation
937welderdave
#1 Posted : Wednesday, September 28, 2011 8:11:57 AM(UTC)
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When I last visted my boat I notice mold forming on my upper cabin ceiling panels. I also notice that my bedding was damp. Since we were there for night we aired out the cabin and got the bedding to dry. As I was wakeing up the hatch {BOWMAR} was dripping large drops of water on me. I was also running a small heater which was not helping the condinsate problem any.SO Think does anybody have an idea what the square feet of the cabin is on a 32' sedan . Or could spec. out the proper dehumifier for my boat . I must keep it efficient not to draw to much current. I'm thinking of setting it by the sink to drain there. Does Bowmar make a double paine hatch cover or has anybody try using closed cell white form as insulation in the panels of the hatch. I have already insulated the v birth roof when replacing the headliner. Input InputPray
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Docsnow
#2 Posted : Wednesday, September 28, 2011 8:43:57 AM(UTC)
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Dave,

Awhile back someone posted something about a fan type vent that they adapted to the V berth hatch can't recall all the particulars about what he posted might want 2 check the archives Think or possibly the poster may C this & re-post. That dripping does pose a problem on these cooler nights Brick wall

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dependo
#3 Posted : Wednesday, September 28, 2011 9:51:18 AM(UTC)
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Dave, I took some Sumbrella fabric & Foam & made a square insert that fits in the hatch. It is held in by the screen. Cooler in summer ,warmer in winter & no condensation. Wayne
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
jralbert
#4 Posted : Wednesday, September 28, 2011 12:34:35 PM(UTC)
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Look up Nicro Solar Vent. It uses a NiCad C-cell (I would guess you could replace that with an NIMH c-cell) battery. During most days, even cloudy ones, the built-in solar panel keeps the battery charged enough to run all night. Mine has been running for months and I have changed the battery only once or twice in probably 10 years of running. Sometimes in the winter, I turn it off because I use those mildew prevention gas bags and I believe the exhaust fan exhausts that gas.

They don't pull a lot of air but enough to eliminate condensation or at least reduce it significantly.

In my Bowmar hatch - and probably the same hatch in many or most Marinettes, you cut a 4 inch hole (hole saw) in the lexan/plexi and drop the unit in place. No screws..just a bead of silicone. I would not use 5200 because it's "permanent (though it CAN be dissolved). I forget which silicone type I used. But it held for a number of years, then I scraped and replaced it.

These things are overpriced so shop a bit. I think I got best pricing at Defender. It will be different today. I say overpriced..but they seem to work.

(btw, of course there will be more condensation when you have the interior heat on -- warm surface aqgainst cold and all that kind of physics stuff)
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
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Bill on 9/30/2011(UTC)
yooper
#5 Posted : Thursday, September 29, 2011 9:17:14 AM(UTC)
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That fiberglass insulation does not hold up. I am thinking about foaming the walls of my project 28' before putting up the new wall panels. I got a card from a professional that can come in a truck. I also looked at some DIY foam kits on-line. The DIY kits are too much foam for the boat but I could throw in the garage to make them worthwile. Has anyone used spray in foam on our Marinettes?
tundrarules
#6 Posted : Thursday, September 29, 2011 6:13:25 PM(UTC)
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Take ceiling panels down and use cut pink insulation foam panels from Home Depot or Lowe's. They also sell the silver bubble insulation in a roll that may be better. Spray adhesive...Dancing
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Bill on 9/30/2011(UTC)
dougrose
#7 Posted : Thursday, September 29, 2011 8:22:16 PM(UTC)
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I have not tried sprayed foam on a marinette, but I have seen it done on many steel boats. It seems to work very well.

The Navy glues flexible foam, a vinyl closed-cell foam, to the inner surface of the pressure hulls on subs. That works well and I guess you could use any sturdy foam.

I used the silver bubble insulation, Reflectix, and it was very easy to tape to the panels. I did not glue it onto the panel, although that should work well. It isn't going anywhere once it's back there...


1975 32' Flybridge Sedan, twin Perkins 6-354 diesels, 1:1.53 velvetdrives, 16 X 19 props. Merritt Island, Florida
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Bill on 9/30/2011(UTC)
pfhlaw
#9 Posted : Saturday, October 01, 2011 9:10:55 AM(UTC)
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Be careful with spray foam. Some of the industrial formulas are not intended for habitable spaces and will off-gas formaldehyde for years. The residential spray foam formulas don't use urea-formaldehyde. They use urethane which is bad but "not as bad".
Peter
1981 32' sedan bridge
twin Chrysler 360 cu. in. 250 hp engines
Raw water cooled
Nimbus II
Home port: New Buffalo, MI
GB49
#10 Posted : Saturday, October 01, 2011 11:03:46 AM(UTC)
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I put a canvas snap at each corner of the bowmar screen guide wood trim (snaps face down toward vberth). Used a square piece of material cut from spare curtain material. Snap it up against the screen frame trim. It keeps the sun out and prevents condensation from dripping down while sleeping.

-Karl
1986, 32' Sedan, twin 360ci, 275hp Chrysler's w/ K&N flame arrestors
bpboater
#11 Posted : Saturday, October 01, 2011 11:47:59 AM(UTC)
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I would look for vinyl foam or the reflectix bubble insulation for use behind the walls. With polyurethane foams, the combustion products are very toxic -- some cyanide is released when burned.
jralbert
#12 Posted : Saturday, October 01, 2011 10:13:42 PM(UTC)
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Reflectix! so cheap you can double layer it if that will make you feel snugger
Joel Albert, Potomac MD
"Charlie B" - 1988 32' FBS
Twin 318's/FWC/16x15 nibral props
docked Deale, MD
Bill_2
#8 Posted : Sunday, December 04, 2011 6:34:25 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: dougrose Go to Quoted Post
I have not tried sprayed foam on a marinette, but I have seen it done on many steel boats. It seems to work very well.

The Navy glues flexible foam, a vinyl closed-cell foam, to the inner surface of the pressure hulls on subs. That works well and I guess you could use any sturdy foam.

I used the silver bubble insulation, Reflectix, and it was very easy to tape to the panels. I did not glue it onto the panel, although that should work well. It isn't going anywhere once it's back there...


Eh? So how is the Reflex working out, did it eliminate the condensation on the ceiling?Pray I am in the process of removing the v berth ceiling and wall. So far the original insulation has been soaked with condensation.Think I would like to know if the Reflectix is the way to go or not?Whistle
Bill [aka Bill_2]
Bev and Bill Clayton
ALUMINATION
1975
37' Marinette Fly Bridge Sedan
Twin 340 Chrysler 250 hp
Grosse Ile, MI
Lake Erie
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