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roof air
dependo
#1 Posted : Monday, March 03, 2008 2:32:55 AM(UTC)
dependo

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just completed installing "red neck" roof air on my 32 express. going to try to post photos. this is carrier's low profile 16'000 BTU unit. Wayne
dependo attached the following image(s):
dependo attached the following image(s): air inside.jpg
dependo attached the following image(s): air 05.jpg
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
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Docsnow
#3 Posted : Monday, March 03, 2008 8:35:31 AM(UTC)
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Wayne,

If don't mind, what's a unit like that cost & what was the amount of man hours involved in the insallation d'oh!
TIA. Really a professioal job U done there looks Great Applause

Norm,

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DiverDennis
#4 Posted : Monday, March 03, 2008 10:41:46 AM(UTC)
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Wayne,

Thanks for the photos. The unit looks sharp and the ceiling kit matches nicely.
Did you have an opening already? Is that a titanium nitride dome light?
We will be setting our Carrier Low Profile 13.5 on SI this spring.
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
Barkleydave
#5 Posted : Monday, March 03, 2008 11:24:06 AM(UTC)
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Very nice install!! Looked at that unit last spring. I was thinking of mounting under fB seat and that would put main air in the saloon.

Do you know what the amerage requirements are?

thanks

dave
None
fastjeff
#6 Posted : Monday, March 03, 2008 11:29:20 PM(UTC)
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Sweet! I'll bet that'll work better than on the cabin roof (like mine).

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

dependo
#7 Posted : Tuesday, March 04, 2008 12:43:22 AM(UTC)
dependo

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Norm, This unit cost $ 649. from Family rv Store (e bay store) comes w/ celeing kit. Heat strip upgrade extra $ 49. Took about 3hrs & did it myself , except lifting the roof unit up from the dock. Had to take down some of ceiling panel down to run 12/3 wire back to breaker box. Dennis,I had to cut a hole W/ sawall to cut thru the alun I beams in the foof. That roof is strong! I bet 6 of "Sorry Dogs's"girls could dance up there. Yes I used Titanium nitrate lights in the cabin . They give out a lot of light and I think the wood trim looks cool. Dave, the carrier web site says I think about 14 amps but I noticed It pulled 20amps when the compressor kicks on. I installed a volt & amp meter panel on the bulkhead to monitor the volts/amps of everything going to the breaker box. Thanks all for your coments. I know Jeff would be proud that took the "red neck" road and saved $ 1500. over a central unit I love this site!
( correction, this is a 15k unit not 16K ) Wayne
















1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
DiverDennis
#8 Posted : Tuesday, March 04, 2008 11:38:45 AM(UTC)
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dependo wrote:
...had to cut a hole W/ sawzall thru the alum I beams in the roof...used Titanium nitrate lights in the cabin. They give out a lot of light and I think the wood trim looks cool.

We had to cut a 14x14 hole also. The Admiral was quite sceptical of my plan but everything went fine. While we had the ceiling exposed we stuck some insulation up there too. http://marinetteboat.com...ion-in-the-ceiling.aspx
We replaced all the dome lights with the titanium LED lights. Very low draw with lots of lumens.
Surface Interval
1975 28' Express, Single M360
Specs: http://www.boatm8.com/my...amp;page=boats&arr=0
SORRYDOG2
#9 Posted : Wednesday, March 05, 2008 12:39:41 AM(UTC)
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Didn't know they made a low profile unit!! Showed pics to my Mermaids, Got 5 so far to DANCE on your ROOF!! LOOK GREAT MON!! Sorrydog
Donkov
#10 Posted : Saturday, March 15, 2008 1:37:09 AM(UTC)
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Sweet little unit and damn reasonably priced. How did you handle the condensate draining or does the unit have a slinger? Also how loud is it?
dependo
#11 Posted : Saturday, March 15, 2008 2:40:55 AM(UTC)
dependo

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Donkov , I think it has a slinger, but not sure. have not had any hot weather to try it out. It has a fan that vents out the top. It also comes with a drain fitting where you can run a hose thu the ceiling to a drain. I did not install that yet. It is quiet & the vents oscillates to sweep you with cool air. Wayne
1973 express FB 32ft
twin 318
"Southern Lady"
Chattanooga
Donkov
#12 Posted : Saturday, March 22, 2008 8:06:14 AM(UTC)
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If you've got a condensate drain fitting then more than likely it wouldn't have a slinger. A slinger design is used in some window air conditioners to eliminate the condensate water by spraying it over the condenser coil (outdoor coil). The fan for the coil has a ring (slinger) installed around it and as the water accumulates it picks it up and throws it into the coil. The water is removed and the coil tranfers heat more efficiently with the water evaporation. Sorry about the long winded AC lesson but I have always wished mine had the feature. During the hottest weather it would struggle to maintain the temp unless I gave the coil a spray from the hose. My OEM (13,000 Btu/h) unit in my 1975 37ft has dual drains that are plumbed in the ceiling of the salon, down inside the walls and into the bilge. Glad to know if the my old dog ever dies I can replace the entire unit with something like this. Enjoy the comfort, nice looking install.
Don
Roger2
#13 Posted : Saturday, March 22, 2008 11:36:19 AM(UTC)
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Be careful spraying coil, you could knock out valves if you send liquid to compressor! Just my 2cents worth.

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
fastjeff
#14 Posted : Saturday, March 22, 2008 11:25:06 PM(UTC)
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Clever advise on spraying the condensor coil to improve efficiency. I doubt if that would hurt anything inside since, in my case (Coleman RV unit on cabin roof) it sees rain blasting through it all the time.

Another thing we do to get the interior temp down on a hot day is spray water all over the outside of the boat. (The steam coming off is impressive!) I'll add spraying of the condensor to my list. Thanks!

Jeff

PS: It's weird to be thinking of cooling a hot boat with snow on the ground outside!
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

MHYZHEN
#15 Posted : Sunday, March 23, 2008 2:02:21 AM(UTC)
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we have people down in these parts actually install misters around the outside of their condensers.....it makes a huge difference in cooling ability inside the home.....

i can remember at the race track we use to keep a sray bottle or two around with water.....and in between runs we would lightly spray the front of radiator with engine running......you could draw the temps down 50 degrees in just a couple minutes doing that.......water is an awsome conductor of heat !
http://theboaters.com/bo...te/express/1964/MHYZHEN

One more busted knuckle and i'll have a complete set !
fastjeff
#16 Posted : Sunday, March 23, 2008 5:12:26 AM(UTC)
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Some company actually sold a spray deal for RVs; a pump shot water at the radiator to lower the temperature. Fine on pulling a long hill with a trailer in back.

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Pilgrim
#17 Posted : Wednesday, March 26, 2008 5:40:41 AM(UTC)
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I'm very familiar with the original (higher profile Carrier). I'm buying one of these for install in our 28 Express helm roof. With the new rear deck camper enclosure I'm building, I figure it will cool the whole boat (inside and rear deck) here in the hot Florida sun. IF not, I still have my Chinese $99, 5k BTU, inside Cabin AC that freezes us out as it is. Unfortunately, running the inside AC with the enclosure will make the rear deck unbearable.

I installed the higher profile Carrier unit on a large pop up camper (mostly canvas) and in 100 degree weather , with high humidity it would freeze you out. It only pulls about 12 amps when its REALLY working hard. Check the specs but I think they only draw 8 amps on low speed. These can be run on an EU2000 with amps to spare.

THey have a "shower of air" feature on the inside grate that forces ALL the output directly down and out of a 6-8" round center duct. Although you can set it to use the end (modulating) outputs, dumping all output through the center will cause, in my case, the cold air to blow down into the open cabin (cold falls). FYI, the end modulating duct things are all plastic and easy to break. (Be careful while cleaning, etc.)

Now on the new, lower profile units they draw slightly more (1-2 amps) and offer slightly less CFM's (300, vs. 325 as I recall). They use the same inside vent /duct/shower/modulator thing. The old ones (and the new) have slingers and when the water level gets too high they drain. The old ones drained wherever they wanted (lowest point), where the new low profile units have drain port so you can run a hose.

My only concern with the new low-profile is that it may not have the longevity of the original ones and they cost 300 more. The high (original) profiles can be had for $350 and they are very dependable, proven design. I'm sitting next to a Trawler Cat 36 with one of the original (high profile) Carriers. He has it mounted so the Air shower is directly over his $2500 helm chair where he sits in air conditioned comfort to drive his boat. This one is 5 years old (in Saltwater environment) and still running strong. (Down here most run AC all year to reduce humidity). He seldom uses his ducted engine driven, raw water cooled ac.

Last, should you get tired of the unit a standard RV hatch can be installed in the hole you cut to mount the AC.
Goldpoint
#18 Posted : Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:15:44 AM(UTC)
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Pilgrim,

I found it interesting that you mentioned the Honda EU2000 portable generator in your response. I have been looking at this as well as a Yamaha model that puts out a few more watts, but have been very hesitant to go further and actually make a purchase. They look as if they will serve the purpose, but I'm hesitant from a safety perspective. I do like the idea of being able to use the portable units at either the boat or the home depending upon the needs at the time.

John B.
1979 28' Sedan Bridge
Single 360
Chattanooga, TN
fastjeff
#19 Posted : Wednesday, March 26, 2008 1:22:12 PM(UTC)
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The Coast Guard will frown heavily on you if you use one of those on your boat. Nose in the the shore and run the generator on the land, with a shore power cord connecting to your boat, and that's okay. Just don't get caught running one on the swim platform!

Jeff
"...reality is not nearly as lovely as the world of Liberal Land. No wonder so many people want to go there." - Tom Sowell

Roger2
#20 Posted : Wednesday, March 26, 2008 2:45:32 PM(UTC)
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Jeff, Is that do to possible C O exposure to swimers?

Roger
Sea Jay
1983 37 double cabin, twin 230hp Volvo diesels, twin disk 1.5-1 20X 23 4 blade props
SORRYDOG2
#21 Posted : Wednesday, March 26, 2008 3:26:12 PM(UTC)
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The trend here is to put the generator on the bow pulpit and it seams to work. Saw at least 40- boaters anchored out last summer this way. CLOSE FRONT HATCH!! Also saw in Silver Glen Springs, Boaters tied next to each other with approx 2 in hose floating from there boats with life jacket on end of hose. this looked like that light weight bilge pump hose, turns out the have fittings on inboard generator exhaust dicharge to get rid of C O. Worked well. Had about 20 ft of hose. Sorrydog
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