Howdy Guys! Long story short, our boat, was moved, with my permission, for a Jimmy Buffet party. I was working 70-90 hours a week, so I couldn't do it my self. Two members moved the boat under it own power, but they left the ignitions on! Two weeks later, I get to move it back. Open engine compartment to check engine oils (twin 318's) run blower, go to turn keys on, down below, by the dinett, and both keys are ON! Moved the boat to it's spot with the work boat in the rain (pouring down) I got pissed & wet. Fast forward to time to winterize two 318 & 6.5 genny. No nothing anywhere! I just start replacing parts (spares I have on board) Engine #1, the starting resister (four prong) had fallen apart, no problem got a spare, replace coil, got a spare, replace 5 prong electic box, got a spare. Prime carb, fires right up! Three gallons anti with the thermostat out, and choke engine with fog! Done! Have a beer!
Engine # two, Only have five volts @ plus side of coil. Check and clean fuse on keyed ignition switch below. Have gauges jump when i hit first spot on ignition switch @ lower console, now five volts @ plus side of coil!
Question? could i just jump twelve volts from battery to plus side of coil?
I have new 5 prong electic box ordered to p/u monday...it was 26 degrees last nite, and can't leave anything plugged in @ our marina.
I have electonic ignition, no points. I'm hopeing I didn't blow out the reluckor (spell) on the distribitor. The resean I ask is I can usually feel something rocking the distribitor.
So.....any ideas on the 5 volts to the plus side of the coil???? Bad switch @ the key??
Bad ignition switch @ the console??? Bad power cutoff switch down below??? Bad wire??
Any ideas??? Sorry so long winded. Merry Christmas!

Howdy Bill_2, wish i knew how to copy.....no, I took the thermostats out & are pouring anti in the raw water skimmer, hence thru transcooler, up to engine water pump, then the other water pump past the thermostat, thou the raw water manifold, thru the muffler and out the exhaust.
I just finished my chores, gathering up stuff to take to the boat, leaving shortly, and had to wait to get on the computer as the Admiral was shopping, so after jerking around for ten minutes, I mistakenly asked where's ur lapp-top????????Gotta go, afore I make ANOTHER mistake! Merry Christmas!

Leaving the ignition ON that long usually fries the coil and/ or the resistor, but I doubt that it would burn out the spark box or timing sensor coil inside the distributor. If you merely want to run it, to pump the Pink Stuff through (good idea), then running 12 volts to the "+" side of the coil won't hurt it; that's how the motor normally starts up.

On the low voltage, you might have a bad connection at the switch (or ?) but that circuit normally has 12 volts on it for long periods (ie: when you're running the boat).

Damn! Done that a few times myself, but I got away with it.

Jeff

I thought the key switches energized the entire ignition circuit, but I didn't think the ignition system (coil, module, etc) has power until the switches are turned on using the toggle ignition/starter switches.

If that's the case, leaving the keys on would not have damaged anything. I've done it myself before, with no ill effects.

Fred

YOU MIGHT HAVE A BAD STARTER SOLNIOD. WITH THE IGN ON ,NOT RUNNING, THE + SIDE OF THE COIL COULD BE ABOUT 6 VOLTS. AND BE NORMAL. IN THE CRANK POSITION THE STARTER SOLNIOD HAS A LEAD THAT SENDS FULL BATTERY VOLTAGE TO THE COIL TILL IT STARTS. I HAVE SEEN THIS BEFORE . IT WILL CAUSE A HARD,OR NO START CONDITION. PUT A VOLT METER ON THE COIL,AND CHECK THE VOLTAGE WHILE CRANKING.IF THE VOLTS DO NOT GO UP. ABOVE 6 VOLTS, THEN THE SOLNIOD IS BAD. JOE