Can't imagine how that much crap would get by a 10 micron filter before a carb, plus any before the pump.If they are new and not rebuilt' something's not in order. Maybe just one really trashy fuel tank. I myself don't trust companys to tell me that. Good luck!
Mark

My old low hour engines run good but the gas tanks may be a problem. I really want a see thru filter before the carburator.
I have heard that the see thru filters might not be legal for out inboards. Seafarer makes a SEA-072202 -- Universal Fuel Filter that is "recommended" for outboards. Does that mean that I can't use them on an inboard? The filter and a pack of 3 replacement cartridges can be had for about $20. I am tempted to try them out.

Sounds right to me Doug.

My stock 32' has a mesh screen on the carburator and water seperators before the fuel pump. I guess I will stick with that system before I use a metal can filter that I can't determine the status of. I don't even like those things on a car.

Ok, as a 2nd year owner maybe I should know this, but then, I keep learning about every time I get on this site (I'm either realllly dumb or you guys are reallly smart! ).

Dave / Jeff / Doug / Tundra... can you guys clarify a bit.

Is what is being said that:
- A fuel / water separator mounted prior to the fuel pump will NOT act as a fuel filter?
- If no (ie. it does act as a filter), then is there a micron amount that these normally have (I'm using NAPA brands)?

- Does an inline one piece canister type with metal nipples on each end (akin to what Jeff talks about and what Tundra's link illustrates (but is under the 40 micron level needed for a carbuerated engine (like my 318's)) meet the Coast Guards/insurance companies stipulations?
- I agree with Jeff's statement (if these are legal/acceptable) in that if they're connected using marine grade
hose before and after the filter then you have a vibration free (not likely to structurally rupture) install.
--> If these inline filters are NOT approved, what filtration system is then to be used?

Bill

Bill,

The stock setup was Brass Perko water separators mounted on the bulkhead in front of the gas tank and before the fuel pump. To get better filtering a common upgrade is replace the Perkos with a modern canister type filter/water separator. I let the yard install one of these. The stock setup also had a metal screen pressed into the input pipe fixture on the carburator. These are often missing and are very hard to find when lost. They were not included in my rebuild kit on my 28'. A common upgrade here is put in a common auto metal can type fuel filter right before the carburator mounted on rubber hoses. I did this also.

What's wrong with the original setup? Old or alcohol gas loosening up tank crud and delivering it into the carb.

I have a problem with my "improved" 28'. It gets starved for fuel at 2700-2800 rpm and I have to back off the thottle. Now according to this thread I see where the filter/separator before the fuel pump should be 100 microns and the auto type filter before the carb should be 40 microns. I have no idea what has been installed on my 28'. I'll have to check it. Finer filters could be part of my problem.

The see thru carb filter they are talking me out of has a glass or clear plastic case. That way I could check for crud and good flow.

The other problem is the chopped up fuel lines you get when you patch in the new filters with rubber hose. They did not use any flanges or barbed fitting for the rubber/metal pipe joints. I am going to replace some of the remaining shorter metal runs with rubber hose to reduce the number of joints.

My 32' is still stock and very clean looking. There is one rubber line from the frame mounted metal gas line to the fuel filter. That takes care of engine vibration. It is still prone to crud.

I think a little clarification may be in order.

The discussion regarding fuel filters and USCG approvals.

1. Metal canisters are acceptable and you will find NO 162-xxxxx number on them.
2. As far as I know a plastic filter may be acceptable but I doublt it due to low melting point of plastic.

What is NOT accepted is the type of filters which have pet cock drains on them. The exception is the grandfathered Perko Bronze water seperators on our Ms.

Also fuel tanks are not accepted if they have drains on a gasoline tank. (sure would be nice to have them so we could drain the water and ethonol crap out of our tanks.)

Now Diesel filter acceptance is different than gasoline requirements.

The reason for the no drains is so fuel is not drained out of them which could end up in the bilge thus fumes = explosion hazzard.

Also the automotive glass are not accepted due to possible breakage and fuel leakage

Classic boats with manual fuel pumps have glass sediment bowls on them. They are grandfathered in. They were great you could see sediment in them and easy to clean out but not much of a filter.

Your 80 micron filter installed after the fuel pump. The fuel pump is designed to push fuel. They is very little suction on the intake side of the pump.

Safe Boating,
dave

Thanks Jeff my tricky fingers were in control.

One note there are now cansiter water seperators for outboard motors which now are 10 Micron. While I like these filters the 10 micron is not recommended for inborad applications since it would be installed on the intake side of the fuel pump.

I have had an increased failure rate of outboard primer bulbs the last couple of years. I do not know if there is a connnection between the 10 micron filter or just poor quality bulbs. I have had bulbs last 25+ years now I have gone through 2 in three seasons. on two differenct outboard boats?

dave

After I got my project 32' I took off the old cockpit deck, took out the broken fuel gauge senders and siphoned all the old gas out through the sender holes. Now the new deck is screwed down effectively sealing off the port sender hole. My boat mechanic suggested I pour a few gallons of gas in each tank to loosen up any crud. As we worked on the boat we would jostle it around. Then he would use a pump to take it out before we launched. Well there was only a few weeks left in the season so I stored the boat. The gas is still in there. What kind of a pump will pull out that little bit of dirty gas safely? Is there one that I could hook up to the fuel line. I'm going to ask the mechanic what he was going to use but I wonder if anyone else knows about a safe external fuel pump? Be nice to see what kind of crud shows up at the dregs of the tank. I could also filter it and put it through a couple of times to clean up the system.

Per your request, here's my filter set up.

Jeff