I have been looking at my rear deck. The wood is not rotted. The notelex covering is scuffed and starting to peel. The rear deck leaks around seams and drains. Not to mention the bad design hatch. (The back deck looks like it has been replaced and is not original)

Well, I am about to do away with it all. Replace with aluminum tread plate and fabricate a hatch with a channel drain.

Has anyone done this?

Standard aluminum tread plate in my suppliers stock is 3003 H22. They also have 6061 but it is more expensive.

I am in fresh water is there any problem using a non marine grade alloy for this application?

If anyone has aluminum deck, is there a noticeable increase in noise transmitted from the engine space?

I have not replaced my rear deck yet, but it is the next major project on the list.

I am looking for any comments on the following ideas for a replacement rear deck on my 32' Sedan.

1) Replace the deck with 1/2 plywood cover with 1/8" or thicker PlasDeck. The pluses are it look very durable not too bad to install. The problem is it is expensive over $1200 for PlasDeck materials plus the wood ect.
http://www.plasdeck.us/index2.htm

2) Replace with bolt down aluminum plates??? Height problems to match with door sill, more noise transmission, cost.

3) Replace deck with 5/8 plywood and seal and paint with Durablak (self applied bedliner/ no skid coating). The down side will it look good??
http://www.nonslipcoating.com/

4) Do an original replacement with Nautolex
http://www.omnova.com/pr...tery/marinedecking.aspx

I also looked a King StarBoard plastic, I called the MFG and they talked me out of it because of the thermal expansion 1/32 per square foot 40 degree temp change. You would have trouble sealing, and holding down (the screw holes would have to be ova led or larger to let the product move. It is more for non constrained areas like a swim platform ect.
http://www.kingstarboard...s/_StarboardFamily.aspx

Any ideas, suggestions or experiences?

How long does a Nautolex deck last on average?

Robert

My Nautalex has lasted 27 years and still looks good.

Don't want to sound like a shill for them but they also sell another product that is a solid surface that probably goes over a wood base. Check their web site. This second item is even more expensive but looks like real teak and holly. I've seen it at boat shows and it has a super appearance. Your call whether it's worth the money.
You are right about Plasteak strips, they are tongue and groove and would leak. My recollection is that they make a special sealant that would fix that. But as I noted, at least one other person has used it for their rear deck. If the photos are not here, I think you might find them on the old Marinette site
--good luck

It looks like I am going to replace the deck with the original Nautolex. I reviewed the post http://www.marinetteboat.com/nautolex_deck.htm. The post talked about a gutter for the hatch.

Do any of the forum members have a gutter setup on their rear hatch?

If so how did you do it?


Robert

Brooks,

Even if U use marine plywood I’d suggest that U use West Epoxy to seal the wood on all 6 sides at least 2 coats plus if there are going to be any hinge screws also drill out the double the size of the screws & fill with epoxy after the epoxy sets up screw the screws into the epoxy this will
prevent premature dry rot also as Jeff has suggested counter sink the drains a tad it’s unbelievable how much water that little lip will retain the water on the cockpit deck. Now my suggest would be to go with a Plastic or Starboard sub deck or main deck then if U want to cover it with teak or holly be it your choice. There have been many threads on this subject & many opinions but if & when I ever have to replace mine I’ll spend the extra $$$ & it’s done & over with plus it’s a good selling point to anyone that knows about cockpit decks problems AnyWho that’s my ½ penny’s worth


Norm,

Bigs Live On

That's the way Marinette shpuld have done it as well, Ed. That rotted cockpit deck nonsnse has haunted our boats from their inception, driving down the resale value.

I intend to replace mine with aluminum as well, painted white to keep from getting a hot foot.

Jeff

"...go with a Plastic or Starboard sub deck or main deck then if U want to cover it with teak or holly ..."

If you are going to the expense of starboard, I'd leave it uncovered since it's indestructible. My vote would be for Plasteak. Low low maintenance, extremely long-lasting. Probably same price range or cheaper than teak and holly. There is a simulated teak/holley product also from the plasteak people. seems to lay down nicely but needs a subfloor which could be a cheap plastic. Get rid of the wood.

You can get fiberglass panels that are like plywood out of divinycell or nidacore. They aren't cheap but they would go right back in where the plywood was and could easily be covered by Nautolex. I used these on my 32 but left the finish as gel coat.

To allow easy removal of the deck I inserted T-nuts into the deck material and bolted the deck down with 1/4 bolts and 1/2" x 1 1/2" (approx) clamp bars. Loosen the bolt a turn or two and you can swing the clamp out of the way. This will work fine with plywood too.

HTH

John

Jeff,

This is a Tee Nut Can B had @Mcmaster Carr

Norm,
Bigs Lie On